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npt bad i got a 1/3 hp for free with a cracked exchanger i am almost done refurbishing, congrats on your find

Sounds like you got a better deal than I di, but I am still happy with mine!
So, now how do I bypass the internal controller on this chiller?
It is a AquaEuroUSA Mighty Pro 1/3 HP like this one:
http://www.marinedepot.com/AquaEuro...-AquaEuroUSA-ED1117-FICHINTCBC-ED1117-vi.html

Also, I plan to plumb this inline with my Mag 9.5 return pump. I have the Mag 9.5 plugged into a wavemaker that has a feed button which shuts the pump off for feeding. If the pump shuts off for 5 minutes will that cause the chiller to freeze? I also use the feed button when doing water changes. I keep it (and powerheads) off for up to 30 mins while doing the water change. Should I power down the chiller while doing water changes? If I do power down the chiller, do you know if it will save my last setting on the internal controller? I have not tested for that yet.

Thanks for the help on this.
Joe
 
when powering down i believe the controler defaults, to bypass the controler on any chiller you basicly just wire the compressor up to a plug but you will still want the chiller connected to some sort of controler or it will allways be running, loss of water flow for 5 minutes will not freeze up the chiller, but for a extended length of time it will eventualy freeze
 
3 more questions:
How long is too long for no water to be flowing thru before it will freeze? Do I need to power it down during a water change (30 mins or so)?
Next question...
1 out of every 10 - 12 cycles, when the chiller (compresser/fan) shuts off, there is a noise....kind of a hollow thunk. Almost like a golf ball dropping on a cement floor. Any idea what this could be?
Last one...
The fan was making a low rumble/rattle. I put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil on the shaft on the back of the fan. The noise has stopped and is mostly quiet now. The housing of the fan is kinda warm, not hot, but warm. Is there anything I should worry about? Did I lube to properly?

Other than the abouve issues, it works great. I have it set for 76, it stays at 76!!!

Thanks for all the help,
Joe
 
the thump could be the location of the piston when the compressor shuts off, yes you oiled it correctlt the housing will be warm that is normal if its chilling correctly then it is running good. i would shut it down if its going to have no flow for more than 5 minutes it wont freeze up that fast but just as a precaution, if you are using the factory controler and thermistor in the factory spot . it will not freeze up at all that is why they put the thermistor in the heat exchanger so when the water temp in the exchanger hits its set point it will shut down
 
OK, thanks. Glad I oiled it right. I am still using the built in controller, but I will just power it down when I do a water change to be safe.
So, is it a bad thing to have the piston in that position? Is there anything I can do to avoid this? Will it damage the compessor?
 
I have a question:
I have a 1/10th chiller cooling my 75 reef in my garage. what i would like to do is extend the exhaust outdoors, in other words i have made a hole in the side of the garage and added two vents, this was setup for a portable ac. but now i want to use one of the vents for the chiller, how can i achieve this? i can't figure out what to use in the back of the chiller to connect the vent. i was thinking of dryer vent, but still need something to go on the back of the unit and out the vent.
 
OK, thanks. Glad I oiled it right. I am still using the built in controller, but I will just power it down when I do a water change to be safe.
So, is it a bad thing to have the piston in that position? Is there anything I can do to avoid this? Will it damage the compessor?

there is nothing you can do it is a used unit and things wear out , as long as it is doing its job there is nothing to worry about
 
I have a question:
I have a 1/10th chiller cooling my 75 reef in my garage. what i would like to do is extend the exhaust outdoors, in other words i have made a hole in the side of the garage and added two vents, this was setup for a portable ac. but now i want to use one of the vents for the chiller, how can i achieve this? i can't figure out what to use in the back of the chiller to connect the vent. i was thinking of dryer vent, but still need something to go on the back of the unit and out the vent.

dryer vent will be too restrictive, you will want the the condenser to be able to vent freely i would make a box out of 1x1 and some thin cheap ply make it with a bottom and 3 sides no top needed unless you want a top on it get a 8'' or larger take off like what they ran your a/c duct work off the plenum in your house and run it with some flex with the least amout of turns i would not run it more than 8' total , the takeoff will have a adheasive backing on it, just cut out the box you made where the cond coil would be mount the take off and on the outside of your chiller on the body apply some foam tape around the cond coil to make a seal .
 
thanks for the fast response, if i'm reading correctly, in order to do what you are saying i would have to take the cover off the chiller, correct?

i was thinking of building a box like you described, using the flex to connect to the vent.
what had puzzled me was how i was going to connect the flex to the box. i think i got now. will post results.
 
jbj arctica 1/10 chiller

jbj arctica 1/10 chiller

PLEASE HELP>>!!!!!!

I have a fairly new chiller that had been working great until yesterday, I came home to find my tank close to being at 86 degrees. the chiller read a temp of 70 degrees, I tried to manually reset the temperature but it doesn't let me change the temo beyond 70.1 degrees. Are there any fixes for this.? Please help I don't want to see my 5,000 dollar investment get harmed.
:sad1:
 
If it was my tank, the first thing I would do is put a fan or 2 blowing across the water surface in the DT and/or sump. Make sure you didnt have a heater malfunction and keep the lights off untill you get the chiller issues resolved.
Now for an expert to chime in on the chiller probs....
Good luck!
 
Chiller not chilling!!!

Chiller not chilling!!!

So I picked up a chiller from a friend over the weekend... An AquaMedic Hailea HL-380CA 1/2 hp... Problem is that it isn't chilling... I ran it for a couple hours on with low flow (too low in fact) and then changed to another more powerful powerhead which was running for about 24 hrs... The compressor was running for all of this time... Fan blowing as well... Room temperature air though... The temperature display was showing marginal fluctuations in temperature it is actually reading higher than the temp in my display tank...

After reading this thread I opened it up and everything was/is clean... I still used some compressed air to clean whatever little there was on it...

My question is... What's next???
Picture 056.jpg
Picture 057.jpg

EDIT: Forgot to add that the chiller was sitting unused for quite a while... not sure exactly how long though and i can't seem to reach him to find out... my guess is that it's been unused for maybe even a year...
 
Last edited:
PLEASE HELP>>!!!!!!

I have a fairly new chiller that had been working great until yesterday, I came home to find my tank close to being at 86 degrees. the chiller read a temp of 70 degrees, I tried to manually reset the temperature but it doesn't let me change the temo beyond 70.1 degrees. Are there any fixes for this.? Please help I don't want to see my 5,000 dollar investment get harmed.
:sad1:

sounds like your temp probe is bad or you are not getting any flow thru your chiller, call the manufacture they will help you diagnose the issue and if still under warrenty fix it for you, for the mean time cheap walmart clip on desk fans work wonders for 10 bucks just clip onto your sump piont it directly at your water and let the evaporative cooling begin , a 10 $ fan kept me from having to run a chiller at all
 
So I picked up a chiller from a friend over the weekend... An AquaMedic Hailea HL-380CA 1/2 hp... Problem is that it isn't chilling... I ran it for a couple hours on with low flow (too low in fact) and then changed to another more powerful powerhead which was running for about 24 hrs... The compressor was running for all of this time... Fan blowing as well... Room temperature air though... The temperature display was showing marginal fluctuations in temperature it is actually reading higher than the temp in my display tank...

After reading this thread I opened it up and everything was/is clean... I still used some compressed air to clean whatever little there was on it...

My question is... What's next???
View attachment 124812
View attachment 124813

EDIT: Forgot to add that the chiller was sitting unused for quite a while... not sure exactly how long though and i can't seem to reach him to find out... my guess is that it's been unused for maybe even a year...

im sorry to tell you its not going to do squat without the heat exchanger and a refridgerant charge looks to me your buddy removed the chillers heatexchanger/bundle doing so blew the refridgerant charge, what you have now is worthless . the dryer and compressor oil is full of moisture, and unless you can find a bundle for this unit , it is useless, also looks like he just cut the copper lines with some dykes
 
I ahve a current USA 1/3 HP chiller that I got with the system I bought. the Condensor fan kicked the bucket shortly after getting it home and it ran for over an hour without this fan turning. I replaced the motor on it and it worked for about a day, then quit cooling at all. we suspected a leak somewhere as when hooked up to HVAC gauges, it did not read any refrigerant. no leaks were found on the outside visible coils so it is suspected that the evaporator coil burst. this was also evidenced by an oily sheen on the water in the tub it was keeping cool. I tried some 134a leak repair but this did not hold and you can hear the coils hissing when you shut it off and hear bubbles when you put your ear to the outlet of the evap housing. Is this coil repairable? also, when id does run, (i tried running it briefly) you can see the high pressure build and the low drop but then the low drops below zero and the high starts to go down. like the lines are clogged cause of the stop leak. is there anything that can be done or is it a paperweight?

it was replaced with an older 1/4 hp unit that will work for now if I can fix this one.
 
I ahve a current USA 1/3 HP chiller that I got with the system I bought. the Condensor fan kicked the bucket shortly after getting it home and it ran for over an hour without this fan turning. I replaced the motor on it and it worked for about a day, then quit cooling at all. we suspected a leak somewhere as when hooked up to HVAC gauges, it did not read any refrigerant. no leaks were found on the outside visible coils so it is suspected that the evaporator coil burst. this was also evidenced by an oily sheen on the water in the tub it was keeping cool. I tried some 134a leak repair but this did not hold and you can hear the coils hissing when you shut it off and hear bubbles when you put your ear to the outlet of the evap housing. Is this coil repairable? also, when id does run, (i tried running it briefly) you can see the high pressure build and the low drop but then the low drops below zero and the high starts to go down. like the lines are clogged cause of the stop leak. is there anything that can be done or is it a paperweight?

it was replaced with an older 1/4 hp unit that will work for now if I can fix this one.

its junk , unless you can get the caps of the heatexchanger get new titanium tubing and reseal the caps also you will have to replace the capilary tubing the leak lock most likely stopped it up , replace the dryer and flush the system with a r-11 flush and replace the oil in the compressor
 
I bought a Pacific Coast Imports C-0500 1/2hp chiller from another rc member. I just now installed it 7 months after getting it and found the water inlet is broken. The threaded pvc piece and the grey plastic housing arround the coils is cracked. Where can I get parts for these things, is it bassic ac parts that can be purchased? Can this be fixed with pvc glue or weld-on? Any help would be appreciated.
 
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