ihavtats29
New member
fine grit sand paper will do the trick the wand would be hard to get and costly
Ask your chiller related issues here
- Thread starter ihavtats29
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fine grit sand paper will do the trick the wand would be hard to get and costly
ihavtats29
New member
sorry for the delay i had to have reconstructive knee surgery and have ben out of it lately , there should not be any seals to worry about but the compressor can lock up for lack of use$300 is allot for a 8 year old chiller new or not there is no warranty on it and if something does fail on it you would be S.O.L if your looking to spend $300 i would look at spending the extra $100 or so for a new one with a warranty. when checking out the unit you want to see it in action, signs of use would be dust build up on the fan blades and coil , knocking sounds in the chiller are not a good thing, warm air should be comming out of the condenser coil and depending on the style if it a drop in probe style the probe should get ice cold if out of the water and frost ( do not leave the probe out of water for too long it can stress the tubing and cause leaks and liquid refridgerand to go back to the compressor) as for sitting not running for that long it make knock for a few seconds untill everything gets a good lubing and should quiet down to a humming sound like your a/c on your house. if its a chiller with a bundle where it would need to be plumbed up a 5 gal bucket with say 80 degree water in it and a pump circulating water thru the chillerand back to the bucket you should watch for a temp drop and should not take too long say more than 10 minutes to see some type of temp change.
ihavtats29
New member
It could be a relay in the controller its self that is not working. if so the only way to repair this is by replacing the the controller they are in the $140 range . before replacing the controller check with a volt meter that you are getting proper voltage to the unit . and aso when the chiller is calling for cooling check for voltage at the fan and compressor. if its calling and no voltage or anything below 208/230 it will not run and will be the controller. if you ae getting correct voltage to the fan and compressor the compressor starting components and fan and worst case compressor is damaged . my best guess is the controller is shot
ihavtats29
New member
titanium has a great exchange rate and is why it is used along with its non corrosive property's and strength high grade 308 or higher stainless steal can also be used. as for having fins and depending on the size of radiator you are planning on using they do make titanium racing radiators for cars as for being %100 reef safe i cannot comment i would make some phone calls to manufactures to see what they use in the assembly and for sweating joints.
Thank you for that informative and helpful answer ihavtats. I decided to skip this chiller - the guy was too cagy when asking specific questions and I agree that $300 for an 8 yr old chiller is too high. I might have offered half that, but never got that far into a serious discussion with him. At any rate, sorry for not replying sooner. I thought I had my Options set to "instant email notification" when there are replies to threads I'm subscribed to. I never received any such notification. I hope your knee has healed well and you have a good holiday.
Thanks again!
ihavtats29
New member
lol not a problem i have been a bit busy with my recovery that i have not been on here too much lately
Mark Bianco
New member
There is is one other way to keep your water temp within a close proximity of what you want. You can purchase a controller the two best known is Apex and Reefkeeper. Either one of the small base units can be purchased for a little over a hundred dollars and come with a temp probe. That way you can control the heater and chiller while still having the backup of the chillers and or the heater own tempature controller.
Mark
Mark
krzyphsygy
Active member
Hey guys, I have a chiller related question. My Pacific Coast Chiller that I bought 3-4 years ago, its a cl-600. It has been out of service for about 3 plus years and when I took it off line I had only had it in service about 1 1/2 years. Worked great.
Well getting ready to set up my new tank and want to put it back on line and I can not remember if I rinsed it in fresh water or not when I took it down, so I am a little worried about it possibly being dirty in there tubing or coils where the water flows.
Any idea how I can succesfully clean the water coils? Should I run hot water and vinegar through it for a while or something??
I really dont want to add whatever built up in there over the years to my tank. It has been 100% boxed up and sealed off for 3 plus years and I have had it stored in my closet a/c controlled.
Thanksfor the help.
Well getting ready to set up my new tank and want to put it back on line and I can not remember if I rinsed it in fresh water or not when I took it down, so I am a little worried about it possibly being dirty in there tubing or coils where the water flows.
Any idea how I can succesfully clean the water coils? Should I run hot water and vinegar through it for a while or something??
I really dont want to add whatever built up in there over the years to my tank. It has been 100% boxed up and sealed off for 3 plus years and I have had it stored in my closet a/c controlled.
Thanksfor the help.
ihavtats29
New member
sorry for the delay , just water and vinegar and let it flow thru for a while 4 hrs should do it. then a few rinse runs and you will be good
krzyphsygy
Active member
Ok, thanks. Preciate it!
Plato
New member
I got a replacment fan for my JBJ at Grangers. I just matched the specs and size. It was 50$. Half what JBJ wanted.
ihavtats29
New member
Grainger bring the motor and have them match it up
ihavtats29
New member
lol i didnt read the response
ihavtats29
New member
no they will have to match it up buy size voltage amp draw ext....... if there is no grainger find a local hvac supply shop like united refrigeration or cc dickson they are both national supply shops
aquaenthusiast
Member
Hi,
I have a 1/10th hp Coralife chiller, and it works great in terms of chilling my 38+ gallon tank and keeps it at a nice constant 74 degrees. But... one issue, I have to tilt the chiller slightly at about 20 degrees up and to the left to keep the fan from making excessive vibration noise. I took the cover off of the chiller before I hooked it up and clean up the insides becuase I bought it used for a great deal. Is there some lubricant (or special kind) that I can use to put on the fan motor to prevent it from making excessive vibration noise? In other words if the chiller is level on the ground it makes a horrendous vibrational noise becuase of the fan I think, but if I play with the tilt I can get it to resume "normal" operation, but I also know that excessive tilting could affect the refrigerant so I don't want that to leak.
Thanks,
Steve
I have a 1/10th hp Coralife chiller, and it works great in terms of chilling my 38+ gallon tank and keeps it at a nice constant 74 degrees. But... one issue, I have to tilt the chiller slightly at about 20 degrees up and to the left to keep the fan from making excessive vibration noise. I took the cover off of the chiller before I hooked it up and clean up the insides becuase I bought it used for a great deal. Is there some lubricant (or special kind) that I can use to put on the fan motor to prevent it from making excessive vibration noise? In other words if the chiller is level on the ground it makes a horrendous vibrational noise becuase of the fan I think, but if I play with the tilt I can get it to resume "normal" operation, but I also know that excessive tilting could affect the refrigerant so I don't want that to leak.
Thanks,
Steve
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