At a Loss Now...

[Reefing Newbie]

My tank has been torn down for ~3 months now and is just getting the final tweaks done before being filled. I have been keeping about 50lbs of LR in a 46 gallon tank to feed my CUC for the time being. I had bad algae problems before tearing down from tap water being used by the previous owner. I have gotten rid of hair algae, diatoms, and red turf algae. I have dinoflaglettes(spelling) under control and can't seem to rid myself of red bubble algae! I have done two lights out cycles and they will last about a month before this red bubble algae returns. It is that time of the cycle(don't take this the wrong way :spin3 and I have this stuff showing up way more than before. My HOB filter intake is literally covered in the stuff now and I have bubbles showing up in my powerhead as well as on some rocks. Should I do another lights out cycle? I have done a 10 gallon water change once a week the past month(was only doing 5 before the last lights out) and the bits of dino I have left are receding now(phew!) The rest of my LR(~125lbs) is in a storage can with a heater, a powerhead, and filled with SW no lighting though(no lighting for this rock since the tank was torn down). What are the chances that when I put the tank together the way things are sitting right now(after a lights out or more waterchanges) that I am going to get more red bubble algae? My RODI water comes out with 0 TDS, so there isn't any nutrients being added via top off or WCs. With the LR in the 46 gallon there is a three stripe damsel and a pecula clown that get fed once per day. No valid tests as of now except for SG-1.023(bumping up with SW topoff), Ammonia- 0 and Temp.- 77(need one more heater with winter finally showing up).

The Red Bubble Algae is hard to see in these pictures so look carefully.

An ID on this green algae growth would be nice as well. It is either chaeto or caloupera(again spelling)

 

[Crkbaby]

there are lots of things you can do to control phosphates gfo reactors are the most popular and probably the most bang for your buck. running carbon also tends to strip water of added nutrients. UV sterelizers also help control algae problems. Black out periods do work but when the lights are out you should be bumping your ph with kalkwaser since ph will drop with no lighting. Higher ph=more acidic environment. Taking away light is one punch and making a more acidic environment is like kicking it when its down it has worked for me in the past.

 

[Reefing Newbie]

I haven't done anything for the pH during lights out and have seen no ill effects to the mushrooms, zoas, or two bleached RBTAs that are in there(zoas were sold, and the mushrooms are getting a new home this weekend). I have a reactor for carbon or GFO for the 125 gallon tank, I don't know if I would be able to hang it on the back or side of the 46 gallon or not when it is full of GFO or cabon and water.

 

[DownwardDawg]

Looks like caulerpa in the pics. I hate it!

 

[Reefing Newbie]

I have no idea how I got it in my tank... I didn't have it in my fuge and didn't see any on the rocks as they were removed. That powerhead was put in the tank new. I guess I am going to soak it in vinegar and water over night along with any new powerheads I get... So should I do lights out? More water changes?

 

[rdog]

I bought a phosphate reactor for my 240 DT from Two Little Fishes, the bigger of the 2 with Phosband(sp) and within 2 weeks saw a huge change. It was just around $100 for the reactor and material. It worked for me but all tanks are different.

 

[Reefing Newbie]

I guess I will wait until my DT is up and I will be running the reactor I have for my 125 with GFO. During cycling there won't be any nitrate to feed it so that could be a plus for me.