Auto top-off?

[awilson500]

I currently run a 55gal reef tank, but I'm getting ready to start a 90gallon I want a auto top-off set up on this new tank. I have been looking at the tunze top-off system. I will also need to buy a RO/DI system. I really have no idea what I should get first or what brands are good with out spending a ton of money. Can I get some opinions from some of you on where I should start. Pictures would really help my out.

 

[EvMiBo]

www.autotopoff.com is much cheaper than the tunze, if you're looking to save money. I'm using a slightly cheaper ATO unit from aquahub.com (a DIY unit) and it works just fine. You have to put that one together and I'd say it's worth the 10-15 bucks more to get the autotopoff.com unit. If you're looking for a nice ro/di unit check out www.buckeyefieldsupply.com 's premium 75gpd unit. comes with a handheld tds meter and top notch internals. you have to remember most ro/di units people will recommend WILL give you 0 tds, like theyre supposed to. but some have better, longer lasting membranes, etc inside. hope that helps, goodluck.

 

[awilson500]

This does help, but may I ask, has ever failed even if just one time I would like to know? I have read countless stories of top-off failers and I want to be sure that the unit that I get will not fail ever and that is way I was looking at the tunze. I do belive it has three safety switches to prevent something like this to happen.

 

[THE ROOK]

As long as you purchase a dual float setup, the chance for failure is a real longshot.

The lower float may fail but the upper one which never comes in contact with saltwater will catch it. Replacement floats are $6.00.

Now I certainly won't knock the Tunze as it's the top of the line setup but you could purchase a dual float setup from autotopoff & an rodi unit for the cost of just the tunze.

Of note, you'll need to purchase a separate pump for any brand other than the Tunze. I use a $13.00 aqualifter with good success.

 

[awilson500]

Thank you both for your insight. altho I would still like to see the different ways people have there Rodi's setup.

 

[Harry_Fish]

Here is my RO-DI setup

 

[hijinks]

if you autotop off right from your ro/di you are just waiting to come home to a flood.. even if you use 2 float valves.. its only a matter of time.. search the internet for all the stories about it.

 

[EvMiBo]

having another float switch above the one making all the calls basically makes the chances of a flood VERY slim. also, cleaning off the float switch every now and then is helpful to just to make sure the first one doesnt fail, on any ato. if you get the one from www.autotopoff.com get the dual one, thats what we're talking about.

 

[Snausy]

I use this controller from aquahub.com and it is a step up from most diy setups imho. Dual floats...very good looking with led indicators for the pump and both floats so you can see what's going on from across the room. Best 80 bucks I've spent on my tank in a long time.

http://www.aquahub.com/store/atoreadytouse.html

Not really DIY...it's complete other than the maxijet which you can get from them as well. I've been very happy since I got it a few months ago.

 

[palawan]

I use a JBJ for the ATO for my RO/DI resevoir and the Tunze osmolator for my sump ATO. Both are fine units and both have the 2nd level failsafe switch and the built-in electronic timed failsafe circuit. I went the Tunze route cause I did not want any extra pumps lying around. The Tunze has this cool little replaceable pump that sits in my RO/DI resevoir that feeds the Kalk reactor and an optical sensor for the water level with a sensitivity of 1mm. The only drawback for the Tunze is it's expensive and the optical sensor is sensitive to water ripples( I had to mount the sensor in a tube for the ripple issue), and can need cleaning if gunk gets on the optical lens. But it's reliable and uses very little power it runs on 9vdc.

 

[biger]

And now the very best. (IMO)

http://www.spectrapure.com/St_alc_p7.htm

BTW any auto top off no matter how good can fail. (stating the obvious)

 

[Snausy]

240 bucks, ouch!

 

[biger]

Well I didn't say the cheapest!

 

[ScottL4619]

Ok, no one has really answered the initial question here...which was: RO/DI or ATO first. IMO - get the RO/DI first. You need to start a new tank with clean and pure water. An auto topoff system is more of a convenience than a necessity (unless you are always out of town). Once you get the RO/DI ordered and installed, grab yourself an ATO. I'm assuming since that was your question, this is a budget issue. If not, get both at the same time.

I use a 5 stage unit from the Filter Guys...seen here:

The units from Buckeye Field Supply are comparable. I've had great success with the one I purchased (5 stage 75gpd). Make sure whichever you go for, you get a TDS meter. This will be critical for knowing when to change the DI resin. I would also recommend a pressure gauge if you do not already know the water pressure in your house. These RO/DI units operate much more efficiently when the pressure supplied is correct.

As for an ATO, I currently use the Tunze Osmolator and love it. I used to have a peristaltic pump with single float valve. It was so unreliable, I had to get one of those water sensor things from HD. They are made to put near your water heater to sound an alarm if they get wet. I had to hang one into the sump so I would know if the pump got stuck in the on position. I will not mention any names, and I knew it was a cheap unit going in. I have used the pump that came with the Tunze ATO for almost 2 years now, and clean it about every 3 months since I do use limewater as a topoff.

 

[Harry_Fish]

I still am trying to figure out what I'm doing on my top off.

I ordered 2 float switches and the pump from the Tunze osmolator.

I'm either going to hook it to a RKE or
build my own using an off delay timer.

 

[biger]

Ok, I agree with Scott. Get ro/di first.
This is the one I have and love it.
Again not the cheapest but works good lasts long time.

http://www.spectrapure.com/low_waste_systems.htm

 

[tampa-reefer]

RO/DI first though.
IMHO, anything that can flood my house or shift my salinity from 1.025 to 1.000 and kill off thousands of dollars worth of coral.
So I have chosen the Tunze Osmolator.

 

[Snausy]

Didn't realize it was a ro/di or ATO question.

RO/DI first definately. The quality of the water matters WAY more than how easy it is to add it to the system.

 

[Harry_Fish]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14444613#post14444613 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Snausy
Didn't realize it was a ro/di or ATO question.

RO/DI first definately. The quality of the water matters WAY more than how easy it is to add it to the system.

Agreed 100%

 

[jshepherd]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14440475#post14440475 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by hijinks
if you autotop off right from your ro/di you are just waiting to come home to a flood.. even if you use 2 float valves.. its only a matter of time.. search the internet for all the stories about it.

I am new here but I disagree. If you plan it well and use dual float switches with snail guard, a solenoid on the ro/di line that is on timer and to be way overkill a float valve in the sump. I run a pump for more pressure and the pump and solenoid are on a timer for 15 minutes twice a day. It is plenty to fill what my 150 losses per day.