Automated water changes with dosing pumps?

Automated water changes with dosing pumps?

Would a dosing pump have an issue of running dry? I wouldn't think it would matter but prob a good call either way for a backup float to kill power.

As for flammable stuff. Probally a good call. I'll have to get some bins for that shelf to store it in.

What size tubing did u order? Any chance you can copy and paste your ordered items?

For cleaning the new can I just rinsed in the shower with vey hot water. So hopefully what is enough. Should I re rinse with vinegar?
 
WerezMiePie said:
There was no reason to pay 100'ds for auto water changes... You can do it with a internal pump a overflow hole...
Click to expand...

That method is way more complex and requires your thank and sump to be designed specifically for it. If you have a dedicated fish room sure, works fine, most of us don't.

I'd also love to see this done with an all in one sumpless tank (like the OP's), or if you have no direct access to a drain line near your tank. Just not practical in most setups.

Also way more chances for things to go wrong using an overflow in your sump that goes to the drain.
 
Guess that makes since I do actually have a dedicated fish room... And a outside sided wall so that is were I drain everything, I didn't think about that... Sorry :P
 
Could one use check valves and splitters to have multiple pumps using the same water line? Dual head pump for auto water change. But have two separate pumps to manually drain or fill the tank.. Would this work or cause issue?
 
shiftline said:
Could one use check valves and splitters to have multiple pumps using the same water line? Dual head pump for auto water change. But have two separate pumps to manually drain or fill the tank.. Would this work or cause issue?
Click to expand...

I don't see that being an issue as long as you don't forget to open/close the right valves. You don't want a peristaltic pump running with the output blocked. the tubing will likely burst. Post some more details of what you're thinking and we'll give it a once over.
 
Automated water changes with dosing pumps?

I want the dual (triple) head pump for automated water changes. Since both heads can be identically calibrated the water level should not move. Because my tank is a fluval edge and I have to drain water to put my hand it.. It would be cool to push a button and lower the water level.. Push a second putt on to raise it back up (essentially a manual water change)
e1a5d700fe53f096645fbdb7fae6bb8d.jpg

311853a6183083ea2ddc19551f010085.jpg
 
This whole auto water change will increase your sg unless you have a auto top off so you don't replace your evaporated water with salt water. That's the issue I am running into with my desighn.
 
I have very little Evap as my top is mainly sealed. I do plan on adding a simple ATO after I get my auto water Change setup (they will both use same water level sensor)
 
WerezMiePie said:
This whole auto water change will increase your sg unless you have a auto top off so you don't replace your evaporated water with salt water. That's the issue I am running into with my desighn.
Click to expand...

Actually using the dual head pump method SG will decrease slowly without ATO as you'd be removing higher SG water and replacing with lower SG water. Doesn't hurt anything to slowly shift as long as you don't raise it back up abruptly. A swing of .001 won't even be noticed by the tank.
 
shiftline said:
I want the dual (triple) head pump for automated water changes. Since both heads can be identically calibrated the water level should not move. Because my tank is a fluval edge and I have to drain water to put my hand it.. It would be cool to push a button and lower the water level.. Push a second putt on to raise it back up (essentially a manual water change)
e1a5d700fe53f096645fbdb7fae6bb8d.jpg

311853a6183083ea2ddc19551f010085.jpg
Click to expand...

Hmm, with a little fancy plumbing two of those three way valves you might be able to use your AWC pump and lines to do this. (you'd have to have a way to time it for a set time to drain, then flip some valves, then refill, then don't forget to set things back to AWC mode and restart the AWC timer). The trick will be making sure water is always flowing thru both channels of the pump so a line doesn't burst. Divert fresh SW line back to reservoir while draining. then divert drain line back to tank while filling.....

I'll have to think on this one.....but seems like that would be a piece of cake and only add one more tube going back into the tank. no need to worry about back siphon or check valves using the peristaltic pump.
 
Automated water changes with dosing pumps?

Rather than 3 way valves could you just use a y "splitter" with a check valve so the water only flows one way.. That should work for the manually add or remove water through the same line as the auto water change. For an ATO that could just be a separate line to make it easy


Auto water change fresh salt would fill tank and push 2nd pump check valve closed. Only questionable one is the drain line. Where the pumps were sucking. Could one pump suck to much from one of the line or suck a check valve open?
 
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shiftline said:
Rather than 3 way valves could you just use a y "splitter" with a check valve so the water only flows one way.. That should work for the manually add or remove water through the same line as the auto water change. For an ATO that could just be a separate line to make it easy


Auto water change fresh salt would fill tank and push 2nd pump check valve closed. Only questionable one is the drain line. Where the pumps were sucking. Could one pump suck to much from one of the line or suck a check valve open?
Click to expand...

yeah, I was trying to think of a way that wouldn't need two extra pumps. my only issue with check valves is that the line getting tank water will clog up pretty fast and not close all the way. It happens with the big ones on return pumps so with a small inline version I'd imagine it wouldn't take but a small grain of silt to stick it open enough to cause an issue. The bigger valves have the benefit of lots of water pressure from the volume in the line to help them seal. I found snails and all sorts of small tube worms in my 1/4" line that goes to drain after only a few months that could easily clog a valve. The small inline check valves rely on a stainless steel spring and need a decent amount of pressure to open, also they will rust in salt water rather quickly and then the valve no longer works. I'd also be worried that your small peristaltic pump with silicone tubing might not fair well overcoming that much pressure on a constant basis and it might lead to premature tubing failure in the pump. While they can create an impressive amount of head pressure it is really hard on the tubing and silicone (which is what that pump is designed for) has the shortest service life to begin with)

too late in the evening to draw a legible diagram of what I was thinking, maybe tomorrow........:beer:
 
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Automated water changes with dosing pumps?

So far so good on the testing. I let it run for 5 min and the water level didn't change. I think I'll just buy some bulk airline for my hose to keep it simple for water lines

http://youtu.be/t77dpXbN00g

Only current issue. I don't think I can use the same sensor for for both ATO and and water change. I have it set to pump for 10 seconds ever hour.... The optical water sensor outputs high or low so if the value is high the pumps don't turn on. If I used an ATO it would pump until the sensor turned it off...ever with the optical sensor triggered the auto water changes won't happen. Grrr getting closer
 
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