Awful algae in sand bed!!

You are right. I should have a reef test kit. When I said by the book I meant to try and get that algae down.

Can you recommend any kits?
 
I use API,it's fairly inexpensive and accurate(amazon seems to be the cheapest). The master reef kit doesn't have magnesium,I would pick it up at your LFS,that 1 is super expensive(I paid $35).
 
sell or trade them to another reefer, or to a store. you will always need a place to turn fish in down the road. as fish get older they may not like there tank mates. if you do not want them to die find a better home for them. saltwater fish for the most part have long life spans, do not make them suffer in confinement. that unicorn will be huge!

increase water changes and decrease bio load
 
I would lose the trigger(I know easier said than done)I would agree with Whitelightsaber said earlier in the post. They will eventually eat your shrimp & possibly other fish. And like Dynamix said,that unicorn will get HUGE! You should be able to get rid of them with ease,they are nice,healthy fish.
 
I know this is going to sound crazy but sombody on here told me to turn off my lights for about 3 days when i had the same problem. Yes i also have corals and they lived just fine through the 3 day period. Its been two months and i basically never have to clean my tank, once ever month or so. the guy who told me he does it once every 3months and it works wonders. If ur worried about yoour corals u could leave the light of for a full24 hours and then just for like an hour the other two days.
 
That fish load coupled with the intense lighting = algae will be a constant issue in this system. Hate to say it but IMHO something is going to have to give in that current set-up. I don't think it can be both a coral tank and such an intensely-stocked fish tank longterm. If we're talking eventual / potential size, then your 75gal is overstocked. The N. vlamingi alone can reach 2ft, if allowed to do so. In the not-too-distant future, many of these fish are going to require a larger tank for their own health. In the meantime, nutrients / algae, aggression, and disease will increase as the fish grow & conditions get more crowded. Not trying to rain on your parade - the fish look beautiful - just trying to help you avoid a problem in the future.
 
I have done the 3 day thing before. Yes, it works and the corals do just fine, but the algae comes back. I am trying to get to the root of the problem.

Why is the algae coming back is what needs answered.
 
Is there an easy way to transfer to a bigger tank? I'd rather do that than get rid of any of these guys. I knew that when I got the 75gal that I'd want a bigger one!!

It just seems like it is going to be oh so painful!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13547356#post13547356 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mangelo
I talked to a person that I order from in Florida. She said that my local city water probably has Chloramine and / or Chloramide and that my RO / DI won't catch it.

This is false. RO / DI will remove chloramines if the unit is properly maintained.
 
For all those fish, you would need a huge tank, at least 3 times the size you have now, at least! We all want bigger tanks!I wish i could have 1....
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13548175#post13548175 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mangelo
Is there an easy way to transfer to a bigger tank? I'd rather do that than get rid of any of these guys. I knew that when I got the 75gal that I'd want a bigger one!!

It just seems like it is going to be oh so painful!

If you have the means to obtain a larger tank and the room for one, then running a fish-only or a FOWLR would be relatively simple compared to a reef tank. If that's an appealing idea, I'd move the fish to the larger system & keep the reef in the 75gal with minimal, small spp. of fish. Once your 75gal reef is maxed out with corals / inverts, then you could look into expanding. Fish needing more space is the more urgent issue here. You have the makings of a stunning, large-species fish tank here, provided you can find the space for them. Just my opinion, though.
 
Couple of questions. What is FOWLR? Fish only....

Is the less feeding suggesting implying less waste from the fish or does too much actual food cause algae?
 
1. Fish Only With Live Rock

2. Both, the poop and uneaten food break down into oodles of organic compounds. Some feed beneficial bacteria like the nitrifying kind in your rock. Some in your tank, apparently, feeds some very, apparently, hungry algae.

the post on having two systems is likely right for you. I would suggest buying at least a 150 so the tangs can have some space, a 210 or 220 would likely please the tang police, lighting the FOWLR 220 would be exponentially cheaper than a larger reef.
 
also, since you don't seem to know, the standard policy at most LFSs is that you can bring a fish back for some amount of store credit. Often the issue is aggression toward or from other fish, corals, or other tank inhabitants, other times its over stocking or size or quality of life of the animal.
 
Does FOWLR also imply no live sand or crushed coral?

My LFS is a little loopy. On one hand they say they will tank fish for store credit and then on the other they take the fish and that's that. It's odd. I have a good relationship with them though.

I'd love to go bigger. Not sure I have the resources ($ and space) right now, but we'll see.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13549605#post13549605 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mangelo
Couple of questions. What is FOWLR? Fish only....

Is the less feeding suggesting implying less waste from the fish or does too much actual food cause algae?

Sorry about that. FOWLR = Fish Only with Live Rock.

Too much actual food could increase algae if it is settling in the aquarium uneaten. Less feeding could equal less fish waste. However, with the species you have in the tank, you probably wouldn't want to reduce feedings much. Tangs in particular have very inefficient digestive systems (herbivores in general have inefficient digestive systems) so they graze throughout the day in the wild. You can make feedings more efficient by feeding a little at a time, making sure most of the food is eaten before you add more.
 
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