B4 getting a RBTA?

[mikejones]

I want to get an rbta for my clown but the last one I got as a trade didn't make it to the second day may be because I didn't acclimated it rigth and I want to know if I got the right params., lighting, filtration for it to be fine here's what I have:

1. 29 Gallon tank with 40+ LR and 25+ LS been up and running for 1+ year
2. 20 gallon sump with 10+ LR
3. 250w MH bulb and a 36w PC bulb
4. ASM G Series Protein Skimmers

PARAMS.
Ph--8.0
ammonia--0ppm
nitrite--0ppm
nitrate--20
phosphate--0.2
is there anything else I should be testing?

TIA

mike

 

[garygb]

I would personally want the nitrates to be lower, though a BTA can tolerate some nitrate. You don't mention your specific gravity, but you should shoot for 1.025-1.026, or temp. (78-82F), and is that ph with the lights off or after they have been on several hours? 8.2-8.4 is ideal after the lights have been on for a few hours. You also don't mention what your alkalinity is.

 

[garygb]

Also, for a 29 gallon tank, it seems 250 watt MH is overkill. I would be concerned about photo-shocking the anemone.

 

[BIOCUBE UNIT]

Dont go with the 250 watt sunpod. These guys like lighting, but the 250 watt in a 29 gal tank could be too much for it, esp if he decides to plant right underneath the light. I would think 150 would be good, but I am trying to get more info mayself. At the moment, I have my GBTA under 72 watt PC and it actually loves it. I would suggest the 20" Sunpod 70 watt MH or the 150 watt, stay clear of the 250 watt one.

 

[tgfrench]

Yea, the 250 is probably a lil hot for it.
Bta are almost as sensitive as SPS in their need of water quality.

 

[chrisdamage]

mine hates my 150... I'm moving him to a tank with a 70W MH in a couple of weeks.

 

[mikejones]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11962672#post11962672 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by garygb
I would personally want the nitrates to be lower, though a BTA can tolerate some nitrate. You don't mention your specific gravity, but you should shoot for 1.025-1.026, or temp. (78-82F), and is that ph with the lights off or after they have been on several hours? 8.2-8.4 is ideal after the lights have been on for a few hours. You also don't mention what your alkalinity is.

Yes Im trying to lower the nitrates I have some chaeto to help, specific gravity is at 1.026 and temp is at 80F pretty much all the time. The pH is with the lights on Im dosing with pro buffer dKH, should I be testing for alkalinity in a softies dominated tank?
So my best bet is to wait until params are all in check?

 

[garygb]

I'm not sure I understand why you ask about the importance of testing for alkalinity in a soft coral dominated tank. Alkalinity is a measure of the buffer in the water, i.e., the waters ability to maintain a stable ph. A stable ph is a goal regardless of the type of coral you are keeping. Ca is less of an issue in a softie tank, but alk should definitely be monitored.

 

[mikejones]

Im sorry what I mean was if I should be testing for Calcium. I got confused...

 

[ssavader]

Mike, definitely nix the 250w MH light. This is near 10W/gallon- way too much for a BTA in a 29 gallon tank which is probably no more than 15-18" deep. 10 w of MH would probably bleach many SPS. Shoot for 3-5 w/gal, and even T5s would be fine.

 

[mikejones]

I do have the MH lights 12" up from the water, would I be ok wit 4 36w PCs lights if I end up changing them?

 

[garygb]

Yes, you should be fine with 4 36-watt PC's. I would suggest you go with mostly daylights (6-10,000K), since you get more PAR that way--you can still have some blue, if that is more to your liking, but maybe have 2 daylight bulbs and 2 50/50 bulbs. Also, with PC's, it is preferable to have the anemone in the middle to top part of the tank--I would want the tentacles to be within 10 inches of the bulbs. If it's not getting enough light, eventually it will move in an attempt to satisfy its need for good light. Also, many people suggest you remove any acrylic/glass barrier between the pc's and the water, as the shield diminishes the intensity of the light signficantly. I have RBTA's under PC's in one tank and MH in another, and I actually think they prefer the PC's. You do want to change pc bulbs every 8-10 months.

 

[cbowman]

your params are fine, i never test any of mine, you can tell when they are out of whack, but when i first started i had a hard time getting my nitrates down and they were between 40 80 ppm for about three months, and i had and RBTA in there the whole time, amazing color and everything. even kept SPS, i did do regular water changes though, and finally when i did a huge water change the anemone had grown so much that it split after the water change and has split like 5 times since then. i dont thing nitrates affect them as much as people think they do. but thats just mho. i think you would be ok, but i think you might want to cut down to 150. mine are under 150 and love it. good luck.

 

[JNye]

sorry but i don't understand what watts per gallon have to do with anything, all that matters is tank depth and height of fixture. if the anemone wants less light it'll go under a rock. I have 250s and my anemone spends alot of time at the top basking and goes down in the rocks periodically. anemones are motile.
he already has the fixture and he has it 12" up which is prolly a good height for it no?
why would sps bleach? plenty of people have SPS under 400s maybe 12" away from light and they look great, they just need acclimation and time.