Bangai fry
- Thread starter mjgage
- Start date
edandsandy
Active member
From our experience, they will be eaten by the parents or other fish in your system if you don't remove them, They need to eat BBS for the first few week, if you don't have any BBS don't worry, just start hatching them ASAP, you can place the fry in your refugium and they will eat the copepods for now.
The same thing happened to me last year and I can tell you chances are very good most if not all fry will be eaten if you do nothing.
If the male is ready to release ( 4 weeks ) than catch him in a net and he will release the fry with a wiggle or two of the net. If not touch him w/ your finger and he will definitely spit them out then. I would have one of those breeder bags floating in the sump and I would raise the fry in that until a month or so and then the will need a bigger tank, 10 gallon works great.
They are very easy to raise just feed them live baby brine often. check my thread for more info and good luck !
If the male is ready to release ( 4 weeks ) than catch him in a net and he will release the fry with a wiggle or two of the net. If not touch him w/ your finger and he will definitely spit them out then. I would have one of those breeder bags floating in the sump and I would raise the fry in that until a month or so and then the will need a bigger tank, 10 gallon works great.
They are very easy to raise just feed them live baby brine often. check my thread for more info and good luck !
if you can see the fry moving in the male's mouth it should be OK to force them out.
the small aquarium and frequent water changes should work, it just means more maintenance. Keep in mind you must do this for 6 months or so.
One thing I did is took a tuperware ( about 2 gallons ) and sat it above my sump. I had a small power head in my sump pumping water up into it. I then had an overflow by using a small 1 inch tubing plumbed into the side that gravity fed back down to sump. The whole thing costs about $25. Later I swapped it out w/ a 10 gallon aquarium. Make sure it is a small power head, you dont need much flow at all I find that works best. The more the fry have to fight higher flow the more you will have to feed them, the more waist they produce, the higher your nitrates, ect..
whatever you do will probably work, just try and make it as maintenance free as possible. If you like me you have other demands on your time and low maintenance will work better long term.
the small aquarium and frequent water changes should work, it just means more maintenance. Keep in mind you must do this for 6 months or so.
One thing I did is took a tuperware ( about 2 gallons ) and sat it above my sump. I had a small power head in my sump pumping water up into it. I then had an overflow by using a small 1 inch tubing plumbed into the side that gravity fed back down to sump. The whole thing costs about $25. Later I swapped it out w/ a 10 gallon aquarium. Make sure it is a small power head, you dont need much flow at all I find that works best. The more the fry have to fight higher flow the more you will have to feed them, the more waist they produce, the higher your nitrates, ect..
whatever you do will probably work, just try and make it as maintenance free as possible. If you like me you have other demands on your time and low maintenance will work better long term.
Andrew17030
New member
Logically, I think it would depend on the fish in the aquarium and the amount of small pods available? Pods are a much better marine larval food source than brine shrimp, according to their fatty acid profile and the nutritional needs of marine fish in general. I read a report of a Banggai project done in Hawaii, where they had a small breeding population that that they tried out in a small pond, 3000 gallons I think. Anyway more came out than went in, no other predators, they were never fed, they survived on pods, max population at one time was unknown but something like 10 went in and 67 came out, in about one year.
