Before I drill

[Fanof49ASU]

Tell me if there is anything I need to watch for.

I realize this is pretty 'cut and dry', but I really can't afford to screw this up. If I'm missing something, please tell me now.

I have plans for (2) 1" drains at center and (2) 3/4" returns at the corners.

Will I regret not doing a closed loop now? I'm planning on some softies and fish.

 

[Shelby2u]

For what its worth!
I had to make this very same decision a few months back when I setup my 180 and I decided not to do a closed loop and I am very happy that I did not.

#1. I do not have the worry of it leaking and making a huge mess
#2. Less Noise
#3. No fear of breaking the tank while drilling.

I do not own a closed loop so I can not tell you about it.
However I did spend a couple of extra bucks and bought vortech powerheads and I have all the movement that I think I need (i have sps). I only have 2 vortech one on each end of the tank and besides the sump that is all of the water movement that I have.

 

[sandalscout]

I also had to make a similar decision with my 90 recently, I decided to simply use the overflow box holes for dual drains and have my returns simply go over the back. I also decided that instead of drilling for a closed loop, when it comes time, I'll just go over the back for both the pickup and the return.

I think you'll be fine, and if you do want to go closed loop later you can do over the back. Granted, with lower returns they aren't necessarily as clean, but for higher returns can look just as good.

 

[DMBillies]

I think it is pretty simple, but not necessarily an easy decision.

If you want a really clean look, go with a closed loop and drill it.

Drill it where?

The back is great but requires you to leave more space behind the tank. Practically, this means that you'll probably be able to see behind the tank (more or less important depending on location) and that your tank is likely to stick out maybe 4-6 more inches into your room (depending on space in your room, this may be a problem).

Having bought a used tank with the holes in the bottom I know that a bottom drilled CL definitely presents some challenges as well (reduced space underneath because of plumbing, stacking rocks around pipes...particularly if bare bottom). Just food for thought.

I've run a hang-on type as well. Other than priming it the first time, they work pretty easily and is probably a good option if your aren't totally committed to the CL. As said, they aren't as clean looking when it comes to getting outputs to the bottom, but if you run it along your overflow and behind the rocks it shouldn't look bad. Black loc-line on a black background doesn't stick out all that much. Just be certain that your hood (assuming you run one) can be modified to allow you to take it on/off without taking the CL out. Also remember that manifolds and other such gadgets for allowing you to place outputs all around the top of the tank are great, except that they make it really difficult to get into the tank and work on it without accidentally bumping them (and possibly blowing the flesh off of a coral or otherwise doing damage by not realizing it right away).

If you don't care as much, high efficiency PH's will probably be cheaper to set-up unless you've already got a lot of the necessary CL parts and may work out better in the long run as far as electricity/temp (I'd need to crunch numbers that I don't have right off the top of my head).

In weighing the decision, remember that closed loops require lots of PVC parts, locline, and bulkheads in addition to the pump. My closed loops are huge, but I spent over $200 on plumbing parts alone to install them (true union ball valves are incredibly expensive and by drilling the tank, I think they are basically mandatory) and I already had bulkheads and a lot of the necessary locline.

A lot of people site leaks as a major concern, but if you install them properly and leak test before you fill the tank, the odds of a major failure are relatively limited (I would personally be way more concerned about an overflow drain getting clogged, overflowing the tank, and causing the ATO--if you have one--to continuously run).

All that said, don't be fooled into thinking a closed loop is the magic answer for a neat and clean tank. I have 2 of them in my 270 (Dart and a PCX40) and I'm still running 4 Koralia 4's to push water directly in behind the rocks and along the overflows (where it is tough for my closed loops to reach). If I didn't have the CL's though, I'd have a lot more powerheads in the tank...

 

[Fanof49ASU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12827343#post12827343 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DMBillies
Just be certain that your hood (assuming you run one) can be modified to allow you to take it on/off without taking the CL out.

Thanks for the responses everyone.

Brian, you gave me a good idea. I can run a closed loop through the hood, without drilling any more holes in the tank, and, I can do it when the tank is up and running.

Also, can someone confirm in my illustration, the two returns are slightly higher than the drain......that is how it should be.....correct?

I've read somewhere that some configurations will cause problems (backflow?) if they're not at a certain level.........? I should have bookmarked it....

 

[DMBillies]

As long as your returns are high enough that the tank level can drain down to them without overflowing your sump, I think you are good. Just remember that if your returns start a siphon, the tank will drain down to that level, so either plan a siphon break or plan to keep the outputs right at the surface (or both). In my experience, loc-line will sometimes leak to a small amount when under enough pressure, so you don't want your returns too low in the tank that they will continue to be significantly submerged once the water level drains down. Seems to me you'd want them as high as you can get them without risking breaking the tank... whatever that means.

 

[flamron]

A closed loop shouldn't flood your sump. It is closed and doesn't affect your sump at all. Only time you should be concerned about a closed loop draining your tank is if you develop a leak, which would be scary as heck....

You could put the returns lower, IMO, but, like I said, IMO...

Good luck,
Ron

 

[NeveSSL]

Gots an honest question for you, Mark.

With softies and fish, why would you want a closed loop?



Brandon

 

[Mnemic]

I'm in the mindset that once I get my tank setup, I want to have to deal with as few potential problems as possible, and have things look as aesthetically pleasing as possible.

With that Said, I think a CLS gives the best options for that. I have always preferred some plumbing in the tank vs power heads.

For me the CLS with the right plumbing gives the options for ease of cleaning, or replacing (shut valves off, disconnect pump, etc) vs reaching in the tank to remove a power head to do the same.

some of my Favorite tank setups I've found were the ones where they used a CLS to build a PVC framework in the tank, that LR is built around. AFter awhile, the plumbing dissapeared, and the tank just looked very nice.

Doubt I'm going to go that route this time, as I'm not that good with plumbing yet, but Its a clean way (IMO) of doing things.

-Paul

 

[Fanof49ASU]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13015783#post13015783 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NeveSSL
Gots an honest question for you, Mark.

With softies and fish, why would you want a closed loop?



Brandon

I don't for what I'm keeping now......I was just trying to plan ahead and avoid any further 'needs after the fact'.

 

[DMBillies]

flamron- I was talking about the returns from the sump being drilled through the side of the tank... not the returns for a closed loop. You would be correct in stating that the returns for a closed loop can be wherever in the tank (only problematic if you have a leak). In fact, mine are in the bottom.

 

[DawgDiggity]

If the bottom of the tank has a sticker that says tempered glass, are the sides of the entire aquarium tempered?