Best way to treat and QT palythoas

Hey all:

I have been a long time lurker in this portion of RC. I have my 90g setup for about 5 months now and for my first corals in this tank I was going to add some polyps. I am waiting to see what my LFS gets this week as he ordered a box of Caribbean polyps for me so I can pick and choose. I am looking for 7 small colonies so what I don't get from my LFS I probably will order from Sea Life.

I am looking 2 different types of paly's, 3 colonies each, and 1 colony of true zoanthids.

My plan is to purchase these within the next week and QT them in a 3g nano for 4 weeks.

I have read Mucho's article on FW dipping the polyps. I also understand paly's can not be FW dipped. So what would be the best way to treat the paly's. Can I dip in brackish water? Should I keep the QT tank at elevated Iodine? Is Seachem's Reef Dip any good?

Seachem's Reef Dip at Marine Depot
SeaChem Reef Dipâ"žÂ¢ contains elemental iodine complexed to a protective slime coat for safely and gently disinfecting corals. It is effective against bacteria, fungus, and protozoans. It may be used prophylactically (without evidence of desease) or to remedy deseased specimens. It is safe to use with both stony and soft corals. It is also safe for anemones and polyps. . A 250 mL bottle makes 200 L (50 gallons) of dip solution.

Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Chris
 
I dip my palythoas just as I dip the zoanthids.

Use only Lugols iodine for your dip.

If they are the first corals I see no reason to use a q-tank for them.
IMO, the reason to use a q-tank is to keep any possible disease or critter from getting to the main population. If it's the first corals, I say just dip them in the proper dip and put them in the main tank.

I would use 6-7-8 drops of Lugols in the freshwater and also some FWE.
 
Thanks mfinn:

If they are the first corals I see no reason to use a q-tank for them
Your right that the QT tank is primarily to observe and not allow hitchhikers to enter the larger tank. But, if I do have to feed or treat for anything, I would be targeting 3g instead of 90g. I do agree the QT is not necessary but I have the tank setup and it would be too simple not to just use it, even if it is for a short period.

FWE? Not following.

Chris
 
Flat Worm Exit is a product designed for flat worms, but it seems to be working for use with nudibranchs.

I do agree with you 100% in using a q-tank. I was just thinking that after a good dip, and inspection the frags should be pest free.

But getting in the habit of using a q-tank is best.:)
 
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