Bio Cube Owner's Thread

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<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14187520#post14187520 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by oneoffcustom
is it possible to keep anemones under stock 29g biocube lighting?

I've been reading the last few days and everything I read says no. However, I have two clowns and a nem in mine with stock lighting. I've had them for probably six monthsish. The anemone hasn't lost any color, and has grown probably five times it's size.

The biggest problem I think I'm going to have is that if he doesn't split he may get too big for the tank.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14171150#post14171150 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jkrentz2515
What do you have in the third chamber besides the return pump? I put a bag of carbon where the sponge used to be and it significantly lowered the bubbles they were still present for about the first 2 weeks. You will also notice that if you ever change your airline tubing on your skimmer that the bubbles will come back for a few days.

thanks for the reply....i have chemipure elite in the third chamber in place of the blue sponge.

last saturday after 2 days of it being installed it started to somewhat skim the water because i saw foamy bubbles come up the collection cup. it was all white still because i dont really have much livestock in my tank yet. but the next day the bubbles subsided. there are bubbles forming but not enough to go up to the collection cup. my question is should it always skim 24/7??? is this still a break-in period that my skimmer is going thru? am i missing something here??

thanks!
 
It should always have bubbles coming up to the cup, but the only time the bubbles will flow over into the cup is when there is waste that it is trying to get rid of. You will notice an increase in bubbling after you feed, do a water change, or stir up the tank a bit, etc. If you don't want as much water flowing into your collection cup then you may need to raise it up a little bit higher until you find the skimming you like best.
 
FYI in Japan one of the 'things' to do is have a BTA under PC. Here we say they require highlight, there they pluck them from the nasty shallows where the water is filthy, and then place them in a tank with PC's and they flurish. So many ppl on here will say DONT DO IT, while across the big pond they do it frequently with much success. Water quility to me is of the utmost importance. BTA's do not req nearly the light that other nems do, so keep your amm, and 'trates at 0 and you may be fine.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14194495#post14194495 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jmadison
FYI in Japan one of the 'things' to do is have a BTA under PC. Here we say they require highlight, there they pluck them from the nasty shallows where the water is filthy, and then place them in a tank with PC's and they flurish. So many ppl on here will say DONT DO IT, while across the big pond they do it frequently with much success. Water quility to me is of the utmost importance. BTA's do not req nearly the light that other nems do, so keep your amm, and 'trates at 0 and you may be fine.

interesting. my girlfriend just bought a rbta from a lfs. they had 4 of them under pc's, and they all have beautiful color and look healthy. its now in her bc14 and doing well.
 
Tank height is a critical factor in determining the type and amount of light for these animals. Can a BTA survive under PC lighting? Sure it can but you have limited this animals habitat to the upper portions of a tank that is greater than 12" in height. (still making sure your wattage is sufficient at that shallow depth too) IMO Its best to supply the light this animal needs to survive no matter where it decides to reside in your tank. Being susceptible to stress and illness there are a myriad of different changes that can happen in your tank that can cause sickness very easily. Offering marginal lighting while maintaining perfect water chemistry may show no ill effects towards the animal, and in fact it may grow and thrive. However, should anything change in your tank, nitrates rise, nitrites present pH drop etc etc its decline in health will be certain and quick. However, IMO/E having more light than what is needed providing an environment for the animal to thrive in would help in more ways than just where it decides to live. In high light environments with good water chemisty, BTA's IME are extremely hardy more so than one would think, I would say off record even difficult to kill. In this scenario they are very tolerant of a change in water chemistry. Not that you want your tank to swing but we are talking about a nano tank here. These things can happen and in a small tank they happen fast. Typically under the aforementioned scenario this would render this animal stressed and sick. Under high a high light environment I doubt you would see any negative effects at all. (Of course I am talking about chemistry swings that arent toxic). I have kept my RBTA under PC lights in a 29 biocube for 8 months, it didnt die but it didnt grow nor did it stay put very long. I since upgraded to MH lights and it has not moved for almost a year and has grown to almost 12" across. It sits 4" below the light, and thoroughly enjoys it.

JMO/E
 
Chris checking in! 29BC but still work on my 125gallon tank more often.. I have a ultra green BTA in my 125. I have two different lights on my 125, 1 48" 8 bulb t5 // 1 30" PC 65w x 2 light. the BTA prefers the PC light for some reason and perches 4 inch's below the light. If it didnt like the PC, it would move to the t5, so in my 02c about the BTA, yes he will do fine, but will not flourish. We should have BTA police supporting the tang polizei :)
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14200438#post14200438 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lyfey
We should have BTA police supporting the tang polizei :)
Then all those people with a yellow tang, a 'dori' and a 'nemo' hosted by a nem living in their 29bc would get harassed :rolleye1:

Speaking of, we need to have the tang police infultrate the people that design the boxes for nano tanks. In unread reefers defenses, they really should be a little more accurate with what they picture living inside said aquariums.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14200438#post14200438 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Lyfey
so in my 02c about the BTA, yes he will do fine, but will not flourish. We should have BTA police supporting the tang polizei :)


What is considered flourishing? And I'm not trying to start stuff, I'm still a newbie and am being serious in my question.

When we got the Nem he was probably the size of my fist. Now he's probably almost the size of my head. I'd say he's at least four times bigger, and has retained his color (RBTA). I got him at the LFS where I got the tank, and would hate it if I was misled. However, he's also doing fine. He does stay towards the top of the tank. However, until this last weekend my highest rock was probably half way up the biocube, and that's where he was. Now a bought a new rock that goes maybe 3/4's up the biocube and he moved over there (by the way, a walking anemone is rather cool to see).

My main concern is that he'll get too large for the tank.

So, I guess my question is...am I just lucky? Is it inevitable that he'll just die one day because of the biocube. Or, is it a "this may work for this one, but I wouldn't try it again" sort of thing?
 
No, your bta wont necessarly up and die. Its just to say that while yours has grown from fist-head size, with t5 or halides it would be fist-baketball, or maybe it wouldnt be any different. Btas often do fine under pcs for very long time, but 'ideally' they would prefer t5 or halides.

(the fact that your nem moved up to the highest point as soon as you put in a new rock, means 'ideally' your nem wants more light.)
 
Hm. Now I feel totally guilty for having him. Although, quite honestly, I wouldn't want him basketball sized. I went to check. While he *is* higher than he was in my original set up, he's actually about an inch lower than where he was when we got the new rock set up done (since I moved the rock he was on, inclined it higher, but not his horizontal position in the tank, if that makes sense).

I am embarrassed to post pics since I'm having a couple issues (and just got a skimmer set up yesterday), but to give an idea.

When we first got him:
100_1091.jpg


Yesterday (sand still settling from moving rocks and such, and a good scrapping of coralline needed and with water spots on the front of the tank from splashing while moving rocks):
100_1131.jpg


And yes, I'm trying to figure out a better system for my few frags right now. That tupperware thing isn't cutting it.
 
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