Rob_Reef_Keeper
New member
ti be able to fit a heater in that chamber for one.
Bio Cube Owner's Thread
- Thread starter jfro
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When I removed the false floor in chamber one I found there to be a major nitrate issue under there, the pump doesn't pull everything out of there so it just gets stuck and you can't get anything down in there to clean it out. That's the main reason I pulled out my false floor, now that I can clean in there regularly nitrates are almost non existent
jb61264
New member
so i was finally able to remove the false bottom in chamber #1 and did a 4 gallon water change...part of the water i pulled out i siphoned from the bottom of chamber #1...wow...no wonder my nitrates were high...there was so much crap that had collected in there i couldn't believe it...i will definately be checking that area for water changes in the future
jb61264
New member
in addition to putting a heater in chamber #1, i know others put carbon and ChemiPure in that chamber as well...others will also modify chamber #1 further by blocking the input of the lower grating so that there is only surface skimming...after seeing the crap that has been collecting on the bottom of chamber #1 when I removed and did a water change tonight, i may just block that input as well
sweetrav18
New member
excellent responses...definitely something to think about
Yeah, I never imagined it would be that nasty under there, that is a really poor design by oceanic if you ask me, my nitrates we around 80 all the time, it drove me nuts, I was almost ready to tear the tank down and start over, then I found that and now 3 water changes later, nitrates are almost gone....
Rob_Reef,
I have the 144w upgrade. the fans work great they really keep the Temp. down. if you can $ buy the fan controler it's worth it. You can keep the fans on with the lights off and keep the temp. down. I have 2-actinic, 1-50/50 and 1-10K. I like the colors and I like the colors of my corals. I posted my DIY MOD to chamber 2 on page 33 or 34. The light I used was a 9w fluresent from Lowes hardware store. It worked for me if you have any questions feel free.
I have the 144w upgrade. the fans work great they really keep the Temp. down. if you can $ buy the fan controler it's worth it. You can keep the fans on with the lights off and keep the temp. down. I have 2-actinic, 1-50/50 and 1-10K. I like the colors and I like the colors of my corals. I posted my DIY MOD to chamber 2 on page 33 or 34. The light I used was a 9w fluresent from Lowes hardware store. It worked for me if you have any questions feel free.
jb61264
New member
just thought i would post that after removing the false bottom to chamber #1, i took a dremel tool to it and removed all the grating portion of it and replaced the basic "frame" portion of it...you may be asking why i did this 
well, I sort of like the idea of running this cut to fit carbon filter padding that I found in the original piece that slides in groove in chamber 1...i pulled out all the floss and original carbon to that piece and now put the cut to fit carbon filter in the four squares...you have to have the original "frame" of the false bottom in order to force water up through the filter...just having the entire false bottom removed will allow water to flow up and under the filter piece. Anyway, now I can have both the filter piece AND the heater in chamber #1
well, I sort of like the idea of running this cut to fit carbon filter padding that I found in the original piece that slides in groove in chamber 1...i pulled out all the floss and original carbon to that piece and now put the cut to fit carbon filter in the four squares...you have to have the original "frame" of the false bottom in order to force water up through the filter...just having the entire false bottom removed will allow water to flow up and under the filter piece. Anyway, now I can have both the filter piece AND the heater in chamber #1
jonnybravo22
New member
how do you block the bottom intake in chamber 1 so that teh top intake is more of a surface skimmer / pulls harder?
jb61264
New member
I haven't done this but I think I read where you pretty much have to have the chamber empty below that point and then you would use a square piece of acrylic slightly bigger than that opening and silicone the edges of it to the inside of the chamber...of course you'd have to let it cure for at least 24-48 hours before you use it again tho...not sure if there are any other ways to block this intake.
redwarrior77
New member
I just put a piece of clear acrylic, cut just bigger than the intake, over the holes, with the bottom edge an inch or two beneath the sand. The suction caused by my pump keeps it in place pretty well and I get better surface skimming. The only downside to this is that I can't seem to use a pump much stronger than the stock one and I do have to keep a higher water level so that I don't have bubbles coming out of my pump.
The only downside to this is that I can't seem to use a pump much stronger than the stock one and I do have to keep a higher water level so that I don't have bubbles coming out of my pump.ERAU Eagle
New member
I have a BC 14 with mostly LPS and some softies.
I'd like to start keeping SPS and maybe a clam or two.
I was wondering what suggestions everyone had regarding lighting upgrades for the BC 14.
I would to keep everything as clean looking as possible; and pendants are not really an option since I'm in a dorm and have no where to hang it.
Thanks in advance,
Erik
I'd like to start keeping SPS and maybe a clam or two.
I was wondering what suggestions everyone had regarding lighting upgrades for the BC 14.
I would to keep everything as clean looking as possible; and pendants are not really an option since I'm in a dorm and have no where to hang it.
Thanks in advance,
Erik
jb61264
New member
Here's one option: http://www.nanocustoms.com/product_info.php?products_id=59
ERAU Eagle
New member
would there be any heat issues with having that 70W mh in the hood? I'd really prefer not to run a chiller...
jb61264
New member
If you read their upgrade information you'll see that they've taken special precautions to add fans to keep things cooled and also allow you to keep the fans running before and after the lights come on...I don't have the upgrade (yet) but from what I've heard others aren't really having issues with heat from the 70W upgrade (or the 150W for that matter)
jmadison
rebmeM deretsigeR
Looks great megg, i like the color of ur MH. I will forwarn you that a lot of those softies might take the halide lighting a little poorly. They could do just fine, but some of them (ie the ones in the center and near the top) might actually get a bit too much light. I liek your rockwork TOO!
jkrentz2515
New member
Megg any pics of your led? And why the switch away from MH?
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