Blue Acropora dry?

I bought this blue Acropora piece and put it into a Quarantine tanks as that was advised due to preventing ich that may have been in the water from the LFS. Now the coral is not doing to well and it was a very expensive piece.

Its been about 2 days and I was wondering if I could leave it dry, to dry off the water and place it directly into my display?

Would this help prevent the possible ich? If it will, how long can it dry out for?
 
Acropora's don't get ich, fish do. You must be thinking of red bugs. Not sure what you mean by drying out? Some ppl will keep an acro out of water for say, a minute for it to slime up which can help clean it. But in no way is that a fail safe way to prevent parasites from entering your display. If it's only been 2 days you and it's not looking good, maybe your quarantine tank parameters are off. If redbugs are present, it should be treated in the quarantine tank with meds. Here's a good read http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1730682
 
Thank you RynosReef!

Thankfully I don't have Redbugs. My Q-tank is good but it is probably not up to par like my display. What has been drilled into my head from other posts is that the only way to prevent ich is to quarantine everything. My concern is not that the arcopora has ich but the water surrounding it. I have had a bad ich outbreak and it killed all my fish so now a quarantine all my fish. I know its a little paranoid to quarantine coral too but that is what people have said is the only way to have an ich free tank.

That is why i was asking about drying out the coral to make sure the ich (if any) die off before i put the acropora in. I don't know if this makes sense, my goal is to save the coral and not have ich. Is there any way to do this other than trying to bring my q-tank up to par which I fear will be a difficult task in the amount of time that I have to save this coral?
 
I'd dip it and then put it in the dt. Acros won't hold ich on them. It's transmitted by fish. Lots of people have Ich in their tanks but if the fish are healthy and fed right they never get it. My buddy buys all his fish with Ich on them at a deep dialing then puts them in his display and feeds the crap out of them and it goes away. None of his fish have Ich and I bet 80 percent had it when he bought them. He has a couple grand in fish alone. Lol
 
Ok, I took it out put it in a reef dip to disinfect it, then let it dry for one minute. Then put it into my display. Wish me luck! Hopefully the coral will make it and I wont get ich.
 

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FYI...there is some merit to what the OP says.

No, corals do not get ich, but if the LFS has fish in their "corals for sale" tank that are infected with ich then the tomites could very well hitch hike their way into anyone's display.

It can and does happen.
 
Well I think he's thinking that the coral could carry the ich that fish get, or that getting water from a tank with ich infected fish could infect his fish with ich. Both ideas my friend are a little off.

Any tank, no matter how perfectly kept has the potential for an ich outbreak. I like to think of ich like a cold we humans get. The possibility for us to catch a cold is always there, it's just a matter of how strong our immune system is when we come into contact with someone who's sick.

So the point is. Fish get ich because their immune system is down, usually due to poor water quality or just over sensitivity, or because you put them in a plastic bag and sloshed them around for 30 min. For instance, my blue hippo used to get ich all the time. I noticed my temp was swinging from 74-79 each day and once i got the swing down she stopped getting ich. I'm sure if i let it swing again, she'd get it again.

So onto a quarantine tank. A qt for corals should be used to monitor and or treat for redbugs, aefw, monti nudi's, and the like. And a qt for fish can be used to treat for ich or any other parasite a fish may already have. Corals don't carry ich. Fish do.

Believe me, all of our tanks have bacteria and parasites floating around just like the air does. It your fishes health that mainly determines their danger to the fishes.
 
I completely agree with everyone and I do appreciate the feedback as always.

I have had marine/reef tanks for years. I have gone through two Ich outbreaks that have wiped out most of my fish. The Display tank I had before, I ended up quarantining everything and after doing so never got ich. I believe that i actually did not have ich after that in my tank.

I followed this thread: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=595224

Now in my current display I decided to not quarantine anything and eventually got ich that killed 3 of my fish. Since then I quarantined all my surviving fish for 6 weeks and left the Display with only corals then brought the fish back in. Now no ich. I know there is always a chance that ich is present, however, to minimize the threat you must quarantine everything.

I agree you cannot get ich from corals, however, ich can be in the water that is on the coral just like Rynos said (I know that is slim but it can happen).

I have had too many fish die to ich and I don't like to see that happen that is why I am quarantining the rest of my corals. This particular piece I don't want to lose so I took the risk. I doubt I will get ich but unfortunately there is a small chance . . .
 
Using the human analogy, if your healthy and taking vitamins and such you still wouldn't needlessly visit a home full of sick people. Doing this may or may not get you sick.

Agree, nonetheless, that a healthy tank with stable water parameters and healthy fish is more likely to resist an ich outbreak.

Corals are not host for ich, but can harbor the tomite that is in transit between host fish. So the idea of not adding it to the DT on the basis that it came from and ich infested tank has some merit. The tomites can only live a few days without finding a host especially at higher tank temps. This is one reason you can combat ich by keeping the tank temp a little higher.

By the time you brought the coral into the DT, ich should not be what you are worried about (worry about coral parasites). The dip you used if it treats protozoans would further wiped out the chance of ich.

In summary, QT of a coral solely to prevent bringing ich to a tank has less merit than dipping it. But many do QT corals for the purpose of reducing chance of red bugs or flat worms. This makes sense and is hard to argue against. Personally I can't justify the expense and time to keep a QT tank that matches the DT conditions. I have to trust using a dip.
 
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Very well said.

Here is a question, if the tomite can only survive for a couple of days with no fish then why do the forums say that you must quarantine for 6 weeks?
 
There's so much mis-information out there on ich. Many people act as if ich is a virus like the common cold...that if your fish are healthy and eating they won't "contract" the "disease".

Ich is not a disease. It is a living parasitic organism that does not magically appear and make fish sick. It is brought in on infected fish, or on live rock, corals or sand that is hastily introduced. As Cediss and myself have said, this is more than plausible. It's science, but many argue otherwise by saying just to feed your fish more and keep them happy. Even if your fish don't show signs, ich will be in your system to infect all newly stressed introductions of fish and create a subsequent outbreak. People, it's not magic.

I had a bustling reef of beautiful fish over a year ago. I bought my ORA Hawkins Blue Echinata from a LFS and introduced it to my system without a dip or quarantine. I QT all my fish for ich prior to DT introduction. Within days my prized Achilles Tang came down with ich and deteriorated fast. I lost hundreds of dollars in fish. It was a low point for me in the hobby. After going back to the LFS a few weeks later I noticed that one of the three coral display tanks had a sick fish in it with ich. The owner of the store apparently believes that putting a sick fish in reef clean water miraculously cures them. Many have died in that tank from ich per employees' confessions to me when I spoke of my losses. I bought my Hawkins from one of the plumbed in tanks to this system. It was my only addition in over a year. After extensive research I learned that ich definitively can come in as tomites in the larval stage from another tank or the wild, only to wreak havoc on our livestock. Just because your fish don't show symptoms does not mean they beat it. They are simply not showing symptoms. We as hobbyists create these theories to keep us from doing the necessary dirty work of quarantining all new arrivals.

If there were any merit to not properly quarantining "ALL" new arrivals, then public aquariums would never waste the resources in quarantine and medication expenses, yet they do it as protocol, not on a case by case basis. I've been behind the scenes at 2 public aquariums and it's admirable and enlightening to see the lengths they go to ensure fewer losses. In fact, I feel that we as hobbyists should be allowed to periodically take a tour behind the scenes to see the operation at work. It's remarkable what makes something on that scale tick.

My best advice is to quarantine everything that is introduced into your system, and avoid buying coral from hobbyists or online retailers with fish in their systems if you aren't going to dip and quarantine.
 
Ah, excellent question. The response I gave was regarding the non-host coral and it carrying only the free swimming stage of the ich life cycle. That particular stage has only a few days to find the host.

With regard to quarantine, the term refers the number 4. So 4-6 weeks is standard for QT to allow sufficient time for most parasites to go through there life cycle. Even QT for coral parasites is suggested for this duration. So in summary, I was referring specifically to this situation of a non-host organism carrying a particular stage of the ich. That particular stage has a few days to find a host.
That is why I would still advocate QT of specimens to prevent host parasites from entering the DT. The confusion that was on this post comes from the misunderstanding of the difference between a host (fish) and fomite or surface carrying ich. Hope my rambling makes sense but if you read about the ich life cycle you would clearly understand the risks and why the scenario is different.
 

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