Blue Wave ballast question
- Thread starter sneeyatch
- Start date
This ballast (ANSI Code M138) will indeed run any SE 250w lamp that is available for our industry. However, it is not the spec ballast for the 250w Radium or the 250w SE Phoenix, as the spec ballast is a magnetic "hqi" (ANSI Code M80) for those two lamps. Running this ballast with the Radium and Phoenix will not drive the lamp to it's correct specification, but you shouldn't have any issues with getting it to fire and run.
Please note that premature lamp failure can be an issue with any metal halide lamp when you do not run the correct spec ballast for it. While it's unlikely it would happen with the M138 ballast running the Phoenix or Radium, you should still be aware of it.
Please note that premature lamp failure can be an issue with any metal halide lamp when you do not run the correct spec ballast for it. While it's unlikely it would happen with the M138 ballast running the Phoenix or Radium, you should still be aware of it.
The closest spec ballast we have in the US for the 400w Radium is ANSI code M135, pulse start magnetic. However, this is not the exact ballast, as we technically do not have one here in the US for that particular lamp. We've ran the Radium 400w lamps on everything from a standard probe start (M59), to a pulse start (M135), to a 430w HPS ballast (this is what we call the 400w "hqi"). We've also ran them on just about every 400w electronic ballast available.
From experience, I can tell you that I like the color rendition of the lamp, as well as getting highest part numbers, on the 430w HPS ballast (400w "hqi"). Typically you will get about 6-8 months spectral life before seeing a shift with this ballast. The M135 will give you the best "lamp life", but not necessarily spectral life. The "dimmable" electronic ballasts, or select-a-watt ballasts, whichever you want to call them (they're the same ballast, just two different companies importing the ballast and putting a name on it) will run the lamp very well at the highest setting. This is the closest you can get with these ballasts to simulate the lamp running off the 400w "hqi" ballast that PFO and Sunlight Supply used to sell.
I hope this answers your questions.
From experience, I can tell you that I like the color rendition of the lamp, as well as getting highest part numbers, on the 430w HPS ballast (400w "hqi"). Typically you will get about 6-8 months spectral life before seeing a shift with this ballast. The M135 will give you the best "lamp life", but not necessarily spectral life. The "dimmable" electronic ballasts, or select-a-watt ballasts, whichever you want to call them (they're the same ballast, just two different companies importing the ballast and putting a name on it) will run the lamp very well at the highest setting. This is the closest you can get with these ballasts to simulate the lamp running off the 400w "hqi" ballast that PFO and Sunlight Supply used to sell.
I hope this answers your questions.
AcroporAddict
There is no substitute.
Jeremy,
How come Premium no longer sells the CoralVue electronic ballasts? I have been running 400 watt Radium 20Ks on their dimmable ballasts for over two years and they give a nice color and have been quite reliable. Might be another option for your customers, and these are true manually dimmable ballasts, unlike the others you mentioned. The select a watt types are good products, it seems. They just use a poor word choice when using the term "dimmable".
How come Premium no longer sells the CoralVue electronic ballasts? I have been running 400 watt Radium 20Ks on their dimmable ballasts for over two years and they give a nice color and have been quite reliable. Might be another option for your customers, and these are true manually dimmable ballasts, unlike the others you mentioned. The select a watt types are good products, it seems. They just use a poor word choice when using the term "dimmable".
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
Jeremy,
My question is can you clarify further what brands your talking about? I'm in the mood to try a 400W in combination with the 250W I already have and would like to be able to 'dial-it-down' if it's too much for a 58gal that's only 22" deep. I have a Lumenarc 3 right now, but may try either a Lumenarc 3 or Lumenbrite for the new 400W Radium with the switchable ballast. I know you carry one Lumatek model (250W 120/240V), but why not a greater variety? I've become a HUGE supporter of Lumatek in the last 3-4 years after trying these ballasts on a whim... It may be me, but they appear to outperform IceCap from others' experiences I read of. Don't get me wrong as IceCap is the pinnacle of VHO/T5 ballast, but don't seem to touch Lumatek. Any chance you may carry the 250W/400W multi-wattage ballast anytime soon?
Hi,
We carry the Sunlight Supply Galaxy select-a-watt ballast which is virtually the same thing as the Lumatek, with a different paint job and brand name. You're essentially getting the same options, wether you want to call it "dimmable", or "select-a-watt".
Having said that, I personally do not recommend dimming halides. To get the maximum longevity (color spectrum) out of the arc tube, it needs to burn at the appropriate temperature. This means that you need the correct voltage supplied to the lamp. When the voltage is lowered, then the resistors life will be shortened, and the arc tube burns more dim, in the end greatly decreasing overall lamp life and spectral life.
In my opinion, the Lumatek and select-a-watt Galaxy are excellent choices, and very versatile if switching from different wattages or lamps. I personally do not like them to be used as a "dimming" ballast though, and in doing so will void any warranty on the lamp being used.
DeathWish302
Clown Hoarder
Understood! Guess I wasn't clear on my previous response and was truly looking for the option to switch from 250W to 400W only. Back to the original topic....
