Brand new brown DI.

[Gordonious]

Hey could you guys also give me opinions of what you think of this DI unit? I would like to hook it up, but really don't know.


http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=907710

 

[wds21921]

Are you adding this to an existing RO unit or using it seperately?

Standalone you'll go through media very quickly unless you use a carbon blocker ahead of it and or RO.

If it's being attached to your RO system? Go for it !

 

[Gordonious]

I know that thing was pure white two months ago. I need to learn the science of exactly how these work, bugs me when I don't get it. Perhaps I'll find an article on advanced aquariumist or what ever you call it.

It will be attached to my 24gpd coralife pureflow II which is running as we speak. Not sure if it is worth the money to keep it running though as I seem to be going through prefilters very quickly. I am counting gallons to see exactly how much I can get out of it and picked up several spares last time I was at that pet place.

I also still need to figure out what type of hose to use that I can keep under pressure and keep warm, so that I can preheat my water before it goes into the RO so I can get better GPH out of it. I've seen in several places where people have suggested running a hose through a buck that was filled with water and had a heater in it. So I went out a hose, only read the packaging when I got it home and hooked it up.
In hope depot I saw a "leakproof" from a company called fiskars, it was $17.98. Then there was a hose from Good Year that was a commercial premium rubber hose, was a bit more expensive I think, I forget how much. I figured that should work as well
Jon

 

[wds21921]

I've already run about 300 gallons through my Kent Maxxima and I'm still getting a 0-1 ppm TDS reading. A little over 2 months usage.

I think if you try to go over the 24 gpd you might wind up pushing the ablity of the RO to perform well? The RO is designed for a specific flow rate as well as the capillary tube?

 

[Gordonious]

I'm trying to get to 24 gpd, but pumping freezing cold water through it won't get me there. The flow rate isn't to fast and is limited by two ball valves before the imput.

 

[wds21921]

Having storage is the key. Then you don't have to worry so much about how much you actually get per day. I use the 2-5 gallon jugs I got at Wally World when I started buying Culligan and then picked up another 8 gallon jug with a valve on it at Wally World as well. That provides me with more than enough top off water for a month.

Watching it overflow though and getting that look on your face? Priceless! LOL

 

[kaptken]

You're right, R/O membranes flow rates are calculated at 65-70 degrees i believe, but also at something like 70-80 PSI also. water pressure around here varies with the height of the water tower compared to your elevation. and the house plumbing. warming the water a little will help some but you need the right pressure also to get the rated flow.

yup, i store my RO water in a 32 gallon brute trash can. I too forget to turn it off sometimes and flood the floor.

 

[Gordonious]

I've got a 32 gallon brute with a 5g bucket I sit in it. Then when I can I have a 5g bucket in my room with a lid on it with the RO water and another bucket with salt and RO a heater and sometimes a little power head. When I had my tanks at my parents and lived at home I had a heater and a power head sit in the bucket with some salt and distilled water. Then I would put an X-10 device on them and tell it to start warming it up and mixing early Friday afternoon and when I got him it was ready.

 

[kaptken]

wow. automated heating and stirring. the power head is ok, but I think it's more better good to just drop an air stone in for stirring and more importantly, aerating the water. keeps the disolved O2 count up so as not to take the breath away from the fish and coral should you do a BIG water change. an air pump and stone will do a nice job of mixing slowly. I only heat mine in winter when it can get down to 65 sitting on the concrete floor. in summer , its room temp. 75.

 

[Gordonious]

What about power head with air line tubing connected to it.... ;-) I've been too poor, or cheap.. lets go with cheap, to buy a wooden air stone and the others break and put little colored bits in the bottom of the bucket. With out the air stone the large bubbles don't diffuse as much O2 in the water. The powerhead impeller breaks up the bubbles decently.

 

[kaptken]

they both work. i just use a cheap air pump but one with enough pressure to reach to the bottom of the trash can. and a 2 dollar 4 inch blue stone. been in there a couple years. it doesn't break up. i have a maxijet in there too for a fast mix, or to transfer water i connect 30 feet of half inch tubing to fill the tank or can.

 

[Unresistible Blue]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7970627#post7970627 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gordonious
I know that thing was pure white two months ago. I need to learn the science of exactly how these work, bugs me when I don't get it.
Jon

Might your memory be clouded a bit - White DI resin? Hmm. Not that I'm aware of.

As far as tubing - use 1/4" LDPE tubing (low density polyethylene).

 

[Unresistible Blue]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7970925#post7970925 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gordonious
I'm trying to get to 24 gpd, but pumping freezing cold water through it won't get me there. The flow rate isn't to fast and is limited by two ball valves before the imput.

Why are you limiting the flow to the unit? If you didn't limit flow, what would be your water pressure?

 

[Unresistible Blue]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7971915#post7971915 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kaptken
You're right, R/O membranes flow rates are calculated at 65-70 degrees i believe, but also at something like 70-80 PSI also.

The most widely used membranes, made by Filmtec, are rated at 50 psi, 77 degrees F, and 250 ppm tds feed water. Other brands name membranes commonly are spec'ed at 60 psi.

 

[Gordonious]

"that thing was pure white two months ago" was referring to the cartridge not the resin. I'm pretty sure it was white just like the picture on the outside of the box. If it was normal to be the color it is why would people be telling me not to use it?

The ball valves I usually just mess around with if there is a chance my floor could get flooded. I slow it down almost completely or shut it off when I have enough and a good amount stored.

 

[Unresistible Blue]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7975355#post7975355 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Gordonious
"that thing was pure white two months ago" was referring to the cartridge not the resin. I'm pretty sure it was white just like the picture on the outside of the box. If it was normal to be the color it is why would people be telling me not to use it?

The ball valves I usually just mess around with if there is a chance my floor could get flooded. I slow it down almost completely or shut it off when I have enough and a good amount stored.

So as far as I can understand the situation, you are thinking that either the housing or the cartridge were opaque white, and now one of the is clear.

I suggest you not worry about the color of the resin for the moment - use your tds meter to determine if the resin is working.

Also recommend that, within reason, you operate the RO w/o restricting the input line. A single 10" vertical DI cartridge will handle the full permeate flow from a 200 gpd membrane - no need to choke it down.

 

[Gordonious]

From the other thread: "If the DI cartridge was not sealed and is dry it may very well be bad. Resin needs to be kept moist and sealed and even then has a shelf life of maybe 1 year max. " AZDesertRat Water/Wastewater Operations Consultant

So it seems as if I have pretty much been told not to use it. We have just gone on to talk about what I am going to buy to replace it.

The other thing is I still have 0tds coming out of my RO, so I'm leaving it be for now.

 

[kaptken]

thanks for the spec. correction U.B.