Brown Diatome Algae

[Luke Schnabel]

So I've been fighting Brown Diatome Algae for about a week now. My tank is about three weeks old and in the middle of a cycle. I've been doing 15gallon water changes every other day, I added macro Algea to my fuge and my phosphate reactor has been up and running for about 3 days. It still seems like the Algae is spreading. I now keep my MH lights off and am only running the two T5s. Is there anything else I can do or do different. Or do I just have to wait it out?

 

[Isaacs55]

Yup just wait it out. Diatoms will eventually go away once the silicate is exhausted from the tank. Just let it run its course. Mine took about 4 weeks to completely go away. You could leave the lights off all together during the cycle and while u still have diatoms, that would help with ensuring you won't get cyano break out during or after your cycle...but it's known to happen regardless as well since it's a new rank. Just keep your light schedule for your macro algae in your fuge.
HTH

 

[Quiet_Ivy]

So I've been fighting Brown Diatome Algae for about a week now. My tank is about three weeks old and in the middle of a cycle. I've been doing 15gallon water changes every other day, I added macro Algea to my fuge and my phosphate reactor has been up and running for about 3 days. It still seems like the Algae is spreading. I now keep my MH lights off and am only running the two T5s. Is there anything else I can do or do different. Or do I just have to wait it out?

15 gallon water changes in how big a tank? I'd stop that entirely til you're cycled. Source water may be adding silicates/phosphates. Diatoms will go away on their own.

hth
Ivy

 

[Luke Schnabel]

I use RODI when I do my water changes and have been using Red Sea salt mix. I read somewhere that doing 10% water changes during your cycle will help. I shouldn't have any silicates in my RODI water would I? I don't have a TDS meater on it.

 

[Isaacs55]

I use RODI when I do my water changes and have been using Red Sea salt mix. I read somewhere that doing 10% water changes during your cycle will help. I shouldn't have any silicates in my RODI water would I? I don't have a TDS meater on it.

No everything your doing is great! 10 percent water change is perfect. Your RODI is perfect. Although it would be wise to get a hand held tds meter at least to check the tds to make sure it's 0. Like 15 bucks on amazon. Your silicate come from the sand an other things in your tank as well. So just wait it out. But get yourself some sort of tds meter so you know for sure it's not your water causing it

 

[Quiet_Ivy]

I use RODI when I do my water changes and have been using Red Sea salt mix. I read somewhere that doing 10% water changes during your cycle will help. I shouldn't have any silicates in my RODI water would I? I don't have a TDS meater on it.

Oh, I should've asked if you were using live rock. I just assumed you weren't. When using semi- or uncured live rock, the water changes take out some of the overwhelming amount of organic gunk from the ongoing mass die-off. With dead rock there's not as much to remove. It certainly won't hurt anything to do water changes if you want to.

Assuming your DI media's reasonably new, you're good. Might want to get a TDS meter tho, it's a handy check on whether you need to replace filters.

hth
Ivy

 

[Luke Schnabel]

Yea I'll be ordering a duel TDS meter to install on my RODI unit. One right after the DI resin and one right after the RO membrane to make sure it's zero at all times.
I use bulk reef supply color changing resin and change it when there is about 1/4 left.

I have all the lights off for the next two days to try to help

 

[canyonluvr]

Diatoms are super normal for break in cycle. Check ammonia level. Maybe it's time for a cuc. How big is the tank.

 

[Luke Schnabel]

I have a 120 gallon display and 75 gallon sump. Total water volume im guessing is near 160. Ammonia is still relatively high. I have 170lbs of Rock, 70lbs of that was live rock from a fish store or right from a tank.