BTA Advice

[mbrungardt]

Hello all!

I am new to the hobby and the forum and am looking for some experienced advice about a BTA that I will have had for a week tomorrow. I have a 6 week yong reef tank. Water chemistry values all seem in-line with desireable expectations. I am also running strong light 14K HQI.

When I brought the BTA home I acclimated him and placed him where I would like him, realizing that he would probably move, which he did overnight...into a hole in my live rock. I let him be as everything I have read so far has suggested.

The problem is that he kept moving farther and farther undercover, to the point where a couple of days ago I couldn't find a trace of him. I took him for dead or stuck somewhere, so I dimantled my LR to remove him beofre it casued problems for the rest of my tank.

I found him hiding in the LR and was actually surprised that he looked very healthy...attached to rock, tips inflated, good color. I tried to feed him a small peice of shrimp, but it didn't seem to want anything to do with it. I left all of my LR in a rubble all over the tank becauase I didn't want to attmept to move him if he was already stressed. In the least, I figured some light would do it good because it hadn't really received any or eaten for almost a week.

The problem is that he must have liked where he parked himself because he hasn't moved in two days. I attempted to feed him shrimp again today with no luck.

I have been hoping that he would move, because I have been wanting to stack my LR back in an orderly fasion. But, I don't necessarily want to bury him back in the bottom of my LR where I know he isn't eating or getting light.

My LFS suggests to just wait him out and he will move when he settles down and is ready.

If anyone else has experienced this, any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

 

[oxkisses12ox]

i just got a BTA today.. did the same thing barely exposed to light. everyone on reef central is yelling at me saying my tank isnt aged enough (3 months) for an anemone..... i would like to know why!! hmmmm

 

[rubysmomma1]

We had the same thing happen to our GBTA when we brought him home. We could see him, but he was completely on the underside of one of the "bridge" rocks in our tank. I couldn't get too him to feed him anything large so once a week, I squirted mysis or brine at him. (Whatever I happened to be feeding that day.) He either decided that he wanted more food or light because a month later he parked himself in the front of the tank for everyone to see. He's been thriving and about 6 months ago split. His "clone" did the same thing he did when we brought him home.

Hope this helps!! Good luck!!

 

[mbrungardt]

Well, day 3 of waiting for my BTA to move so I can restack my LR has came and he has not moved.

He seems to have permanently staked out a spot on the side of the rock where he was once completely hidden from sight. I decided to just rotate the rock he was on 90 degrees so I wouldn't diturb him much and could get him oriented upwards. His tentacles were not as bubbled today as in days past, so I attmpted to feed him again.

I laid about a 1/4" peice of shrimp in his tentacles. At first, he just sat there, but then the light came on and he devoured it in about 2 seconds, which was the highlite of my morning.

 

[Princess Di]

Pro aquarists don't even know for sure what it takes to keep anemones alive in captivity for the long-term. I call it mostly luck that I have had my originals for 5+ years. I have had well over 100 clones. It is thought that anemones thrive in nutrient rich water. This is the reason people say your tank should be well established before introducing them.

 

[Ottomund]

I think part of the problem may be that your anemone may need to acclimate to halide lighting. A BTA can certainly have too much light, particularly without light acclimation. I keep all of my BTAs under PC light and if I move one from near the bottom of the tank to the top it may get too much light and develop air bubbles inside its tentacles. When that happens I have to move them back to the bottom and slowly move them closer to the light over a period of days. If the BTA was under PC lighting at the store it probably will need time to adjust to your MH lighting. If you see the tentacles starting to develop air bubbles inside them then you will want to flip the rock back over because that is a sign of too much light. Long, outstretched tentacles are a sign of insufficient energy so feeding and more light will usually make the tips turn back into nice bubble tips.

 

[mbrungardt]

There was definetly a light difference between the store and my tank, so that could be an issue. My BTA is toward the bottom of the tank at around 22 in.

What do you mean by airbubbles in their tips? Aren't they supposed to be inflated or can you actually see bubbles through the tissue?

Yesterday after I fed the BTA shrimp for the first time, he looked great...opened wide, almost twice as big as I have seen him. All of his tentacles were inflated.

This morning he looked about the worst I have seen him. most of the tentacles were short and thin and slightly shriveled. Is this normal after feeding? Do you think it needs more shrimp?

I just turned the light on, so I am hoping he his just waking up and will be better as the day goes on.

 

[zoomfish1]

I think the problem is the maturity of your tank. As was stated earlier, anemones need a very mature tank. Maturity means that all water parameters have been stable for 6-8 months and the environment is basically pristine. This is what an anemone needs to survive.

Now on my high horse for a moment. I do not understand why newbys will not do their homework on their tanks. I know I have posted this same answer probably 5 or 6 times in the last 2 weeks. My grandson tells me sometimes my head is broke. He's only 3, but I think HE even gets it.

Ok, down off that horse. Probably the best thing you can do for that critter is return him to the LFS and trade him for something your tank is ready for. I really wish I could tell you he will be fine, but he won't. He will succumb to the inequality of the water, the algea blooms, spikes in nitrate, etc.. All things a new tank goes thru. It must be a slow and horrible death to go thru. Don't put him thru that. Please.

Anemones are a glorious thing to have in the aquarium. I like them so much I have 12 in mine. I don't mean to sound cruel or be one of those old Bas***** everyone talks about. Just do your homework, don't add anything you don't test for and remember, above everything else, be patient.

 

[russo-turisto]

I guess I'll be following this thread as I have exactly the same thing happening to my new BTA.
The tank is new (3 months), the BTA is hiding away from the flow and MH 500W light, the feeling of "shoot, I shoud've thought twice before buying that BTA" makes me :mad2: at myself...

Two weeks from the start of the anemone torture project.

In addition to that I'm building an SPS system where those anemones don't belong at all.

I'll be following this thread and post my case updates. Maybe it will be useful. Maybe it won't be sad.

 

[firebirdbandit]

BTA's are one of the most hardy anemones. I don't think the age of the tank is your problem as long as you have completed the nitrogen cycle. I have kept these Bubble Tip Anemone with lots of luck. The addition of a pair of clownfish would help your anemones a lot. In my experience clownfish living in anemones make them much healthier because they help rid the anemones of wastes by creating water circulation. Many tanks don't have enough water movement so the addition of clownfish helps a lot. You need to get clownfish types that will live in that anemone. Percula and Ocelloris are unlikely to use this anemone but its not impossible. More likely clownfish to use this anemone are the Tomato and Clarkii clownfish. I hope this helps.

 

[mbrungardt]

Although my tank is only a few weeks old, the LR came from a well established tank. MY LFS said that with the mature LR, equipment I bought and water parameters they tested for, I was ready for an anomone. I have also stayed on top of the maintainence and the chemistry is in line with recomendations.

The LFS has been in business a long time and has a good reputation, so I didn't have a reason to question the approval. Studying the situation after it didn't seem to be going well, I have found quite a bit of contrary advice.

Anyways, the BTA looked better by the end of the day. He still hasn't moved since I uprighted the rock he has attached to, which will be great if that lasts. I have rearranged my LR to accomodate his new spot (but, also to get it off of the glass, etc) and he is front and center in the tank.

I am going to try feeding him another small peice of shrimp tomorrow and keep a close eye on him and hope for the best.

 

[zoomfish1]

The guy at your LFS is an idiot. He is in business to sell you stuff, make money off you, period. He could care less if the livestock dies. If it does he gets to sell you more and make more money off you.

Firebirdbandit, sorry, you're wrong on this one. Anemones are very precious creatures in my mind and I have spent hours upon hours studying their needs and requirements. They need a mature tank and one " a few weeks old" dosen't qualify for that. I don't care how established the live rock is. You have to consider the water and substrait also. More so than the rock.

Mbrungardt, you can follow anyones advice you wish. It's a free forum. I thought you were seeking advice from people here who have some idea of what they are talking about. You can believe me or not, take my opinions to mind or not. Your choice. I speak only what I believe is best for the animal.

I will say again, good luck, but the anemone will perish. I don't think I am alone in this belief and I don't mind speaking my mind about it either.

 

[oddballs]

i think its alighting issue not tank maturity.like someone said it's hiding from the intense lighting imo!we own a lfs and i knever put anemones under anything more powerful than vho lighting(to begin with not forever)we usually start them under pcs and then bring them up the spectrum of lights pc's,vho's,then the halides or the t 5's and they dont seem to hide like you have been describing?im not saying i would tell someone to put a anemone in a new tank but i think its a lighting issue not a water issue.we have some people we do maintanece for that had pc lighting for about a year and a half and about a month and a half ago they upgraded to high output t 5's and there bubble tip is still hiding from the lighting change and is a light pink not the fire red orange he used to be and is just know starting to peek out a little by little each time we see him every two weeks .my guess is he is acclimating himself to the higher lighting conditions.he used to be one of the prettiest anemones we take care of and im sure once he acclimates to the light and readjusts he will be fine.

 

[Princess Di]

I'm not sure that I agree with the lighting issue. They do fine under very strong lighting. Yes, they need to adjust, but I have four 450w MH AND 12 compacts (6 white/6 blue) and nearly all of my nems stay near the top of the tank, even newly intoduced ones. Zoomfish is correct with the mature tank issue.

 

[oddballs]

the depth of the tank also is a component to be considered.i dont think there is a wrong or right im not telling anyone that this is how it is im just adding my opinion and trying to help out!! like someone said earlier in this thread not even the pros(with degrees) are sure on this).

 

[prance1520]

Zoomfish1,
I definately respect the time you've put in to the study of anenomes, but I feel like your going to have to explain youself a little more when it comes to using "maturity" of a tank to tell someone they can or can't keep a BTA healthy.

The obvious is true that you have to completed the nitrogen cycle. I think we all agree there, or you shouldn't be keeping reefs (or any fish for that matter). After that, and you've established a correct bacteria chain, what other maturity issues are directly required for anenome survival? Copepod population?

I've only kept a few anenomes, but this seems like the same arguement that people make for sps constantly, which I've kept many of with great success. Maturity means nothing more than consistancy. Consistancy can often (and almost always if your good at it) be obtained through correct equiptment and husbandry.

Mr. Calfo does 90% water changes on many of his tanks. He removes 90% of the mature water to replace it with newly made salt water, and I would think his tanks do quite well.

I'm not trying to flame you, I'm just asking you to not jump to the "You can't keep this for X months, your a noob" stereotype, especially if he says his parameters are in line and consistant. Its the high horse approach that leads people like the original poster to stop asking questions on here in an attempt to not get lectured, which stops them from learning better techniques for keeping such animals.

 

[zoomfish1]

He can do what he wants with his tank and keep what he wants in it. I hope it all lives. I am only speaking from the experience I have gained and the knowledge attained by studying all I can about them.

I am sure you can set up a mature tank by transferring all from an existing tank to a new tank. I've done it myself. Changing 90% of your water dosen't affect anything in the tank except those minute particles floating in the water colume, in my opinion. Maturity comes from the bacteria in substraite, live rock, good algeas, etc... I don't think a tank 3 weeks old has had time for those things to take a good enough hold to support all the life forms we would like to have in our reef systems in the beginning.

Yes, I know it's easy to say "you can't...." and sometimes I find myself doing that too, although I try not to.

I may have come on a little strong in that post, and I appologize if I offended or steryotyped. That was not my intention. I had probably helped out 5 or 6 people with anemone questions that day without "going off" on them. Guess all that " my tank is a week old and I just got my 1st BTA" got to me. An anemone lover can only take so much, lol.

The short of it, I guess, is I honestly believe that a tank has to reach a certain stage of development before you can add certain things to it. Anemones are one, dragonettes, for example, are another. I would not advise someone to get a mandarin for a 3 week old tank. Would you?

As for the lighting subject, yes, they need to be acclimated to light just like your water. All my nems are high on the rocks under 500w of MH and they even stretch to get higher. PC lights have been known to work on some anemones. I don't recommend that, but it can work for some.

Mbrungardt, don't stop browsing the threads or asking questions because some ole' f*** like me busted your chops. Most of us here are really wanting to help those just starting out, me included. We were all new once and some of us forgot most of what we learned. Why do you think we still read all the new to the hobby threads?

 

[prance1520]

Great post Zoom,
I'm glad you didn't take my post as a flame, because it definately wasn't ment to be. New guys should listen to people like Zoom, because of his experience, the amount of knowledge he has is invaluable.

My point was just that since he already has the anenome (possibly too early for his tank), maybe we could try to find a way to help it survive through the rough period. Hopefully people who haven't picked up an anenome yet will read this and take zoom's very positive advice in the fact that you shouldn't get anything until your positively sure you can care for it correctly. Research is the key.

Thanks for your contributions.

Matt

 

[redvipe2010]

zoomfish1 is right on the money with his advice. Anemones are delicate creatures. There is a lot to learn about this hobby, it doesn't happen overnight. Be respectful to your BTA, and all other creatures you put in your tank by researching before you buy, and don't always trust your LFS, research what they tell you, before they get your money. If there is something you want to research and can't find it, just ask here on RC, someone will help you get the information you need. But please, be patient.

 

[redvipe2010]

bta

bta

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8920665#post8920665 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by firebirdbandit
BTA's are one of the most hardy anemones. I don't think the age of the tank is your problem as long as you have completed the nitrogen cycle. I have kept these Bubble Tip Anemone with lots of luck. The addition of a pair of clownfish would help your anemones a lot. In my experience clownfish living in anemones make them much healthier because they help rid the anemones of wastes by creating water circulation. Many tanks don't have enough water movement so the addition of clownfish helps a lot. You need to get clownfish types that will live in that anemone. Percula and Ocelloris are unlikely to use this anemone but its not impossible. More likely clownfish to use this anemone are the Tomato and Clarkii clownfish. I hope this helps.

I disagree with your advice on water movement being provided by a clownfish for an anemone. I've seen your pic of your BTA you posted last month, it is transparent. This is not a healthy looking BTA, and a little close to that acro.