bubbles on surface??? cant lower temperature?

sounds like some form of pod. How big is it?

For temp find your high temp then set your heater to a degree or two below. I let my tanks daily temps swing from 80.5 to 83.

I'm in the camp that believes a daily temp swing better acclimates the tank to temp fluctuations making it more likely to survive a temporary spike if I loose power or AC etc..


I think 76-77 is too low unless your keeping cool water species.
 
that is good to hear. i will let my heater at 79 the highest i saw was yesterday with the ac off it hit an 82.5
 
If you have more than one heater, it might be a better idea in the long run to use two smaller ones rather than one big one. Many people hook two up to a ranco controller (which is cheap) in case one fails. A 300 watt heater stuck on might cook your tank and from what I read, when heaters fail they tend to fail in the "on" position. Oh and I agree with drparker, your temp is definitely low enough, I would drop it past 75 degrees.
 
The average temperature range where reefs are found is 77-86 with a worldwide average of 82. The temperature optima for almost all corals we've tested is 82-84 and this is the same range where the center or reef diversity occurs. These are the temperatures reefs should be kept at. Because of their acclimatization and how their metabolic rate changes with increasing temperature, it's no safer or otherwise beneficial to run towards the lower end.

Regular temperature fluctuations don't matter. There is absolutely no evidence that they are a source of stress for the animals, nor would you expect them to be since they're regular occurrences on the reef. A rock solid temperature eliminates any ability of the animal to respond to future changes without stress. The basic rule of thumb is that stress starts at about 2-4 degrees above the normal maximum temperature, not the average. Increasing the variation around the average increases the acceptable stress-free range.

Also, lots of our animals don't mature sexually without at least seasonal variations and some need much faster fluctuations. That's something to think about if breeding is a future goal.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12979922#post12979922 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mindytoy
hmmm...as for the fish jumping i might get the reptile aquarium mesh lids they are like $5-$20 at the lfs and are tank specific.

actually id have to do a custom one due to my aquarium shaped as a wave :(

also im a little stressed on the temp.

yesterdya it hit a high 81.7

at night it hit 75.5

THATS A HUGE DIFERENCE in temp in one single day!


however im experimenting with it...

because when i aimed the ac vents down to the tank and opened the compartment that houses the filter it did get to like 79 and staid there the whole day. ill be monitoring it and make sure it doesnt get above 80 and also get the heater setup so it doesnt go under 77 or 78 so that way i dont have such a big shift...

does this affect the lr?

also i went hunting last night to see what id spot in the LR with a flashlight and there were like 7 centepiede looking things with 2 long antenas. anyone know what those are?
Click to expand...


Re your dilemma about covering the tank--I haven't seen your style tank, but I think I can picture it. I am assuming that is has a custom glass lid. Here is something to think about. On the back of my 58 gallon, I have a HOB skimmer, and two HOB filters that I just use to run carbon and add a little more flow (already had 'em so figured why not use 'em). Any way, the tank was getting too warm, but I could not just leave it uncovered due to a jumping goby. The tank had a hinged glass lid. I took the back section of the lid to a glass cutter and he made a cut out for the HOB skimmer, and I use the vinyl strip provided with the glass lid to fill in the gap created by the HOB filters. I removed the front section of glass entirely and replaced it with a screen made from a screen kit that you can buy at Lowes or Home Depot. You buy a frame strip/s that is long enough for the perimeter of your opening and a package of "corners--quite cheap. Instead of using window screening I used two layers of bird netting, the stuff you get in a garden center to keep the birds of things like blueberry bushes. With two layers, slightly offset, the openings are less than a half inch and block very little light. So my tank gets a lot of air but the back is nicely sealed off.

Why am I telling you all this? Could you take the glass top you have to a glass shop (usually they replace broken store windows etc) and have them cut both the front and back panels of your glass top so that you have a nice strip of glass that follows the curves of your tank in the front, and a nice strip that follows the curves of your tank in the back, but leaves a large open center (with a regular rectangular shape) that you could fill in with the window screen kit method? If just the front of your tank is curved, you would just have the front glass cut and butt the screen up against the back of the tank in the back. I hope that I am explaining myself well enough for you to picture what I mean???
 
thanx i sure do! only the front is curved.. i will try what you suggeste buddy... unfortunately one of the curved glass lids broke so im going to have to cover the whole thing with the net..


can anyone tell me about the hitchikers?

also....my heater is whack!

i set it to 79 and notticed it was almost always on, but my digital thermometer would say like 81.6 or so...

so thinking the heater is acting up i lowered it to like 72 and see if that would help. now it turns on every now and then but the water hasnt dropped under 80 which is what i wanted cuz now my temperature is between 80-82

but whats up with the heater? its degree specific not like the ones that you just switch a knob..

so what gives? i do have 2 other 200 watt heaters but those only have 2 seetings 82 or 76
 
is there something that if the temperture drops say under 79 it will turn on the heater and if it reaches over 82 it will turn on those mini computer fans?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12992574#post12992574 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mindytoy
is there something that if the temperture drops say under 79 it will turn on the heater and if it reaches over 82 it will turn on those mini computer fans?
Click to expand...

I don't have experience with these, but I think what you are talking about is known as a controller. If you do a search on a marine sales website, I imagine you will find them. In the meantime, maybe you will get a response from someone who uses one. Just out of curiosity, is your house/apartment very air conditioned? My house is usually around 76-77 in the summer with limited use of the A/C, but the heat generated by the lights, skimmer pump, and powerheads tends to keep the tank at about 79-80 degrees. I don't think my heaters have been on all summer.
 
yeah it is. i can controll the refrigirated air but usually its at 78ish or so... but so far im happy since i threw in the heater and moved the ac vents facing the tank. now my lows are a constant 79.5 and highs 81.5 a good temp in my opinion :)
 
Personally, I would worry about upgrading your lights first and then see how necessary it is to cool the tank. You're currently on the low end on reef temperatures. It doesn't make much sense to be worrying about lowering temps more at this point.
 
im starting a picture thread but i only have pics up to like the 1st week of the tank since my camera broke...

your welcome to check it out.
 
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