Building a stand. Need some help

cleverbs

New member
Alright so I have built many of stands. The last two I have built have worked out just fine but the type of stand I want to build this time I havent done before so I am looking for some tips.

My Issues I dont know how to create:

1.) Tank is 30x30 and I want the stand to be at least 34x34 How to I support the tank? Is there a frame pattern I should be using when doing this?

2.) I want to have full access under the tank so I am thinking I would love removable sides. How could this be done?

3.) I would like one of the sides to be a compartment for plugs and power strips I get how to make it sorta I can make a box and all but I dont understand how the cord management works with the design


Here are a few pictures of the last stand I built.

7D7B281A-775E-4358-9D93-7116FB406CD7_zpskjpwfnlp.jpg


77496558-0D6D-49AB-96A7-E82BFB4FD021_zps6mmgce1m.jpg


24440C7D-4EAA-4C47-8F37-936A645042FA_zps4wzvoa18.jpg
 
For the removable sides you could use magnetic clasps or the same thing used to hold false drawer fronts on sink bases. There are several types of these on amazon if you search "false drawer front clip". As far as the outer dimensions, if you use 3/4 ply on the top you would likely be fine. However if it were me I would add bracing to run where the tank would sit (much like floor joists in a house). As far as the cord management goes there are several options available at local hardware stores that likely suit your needs. I would come up with the proposed size of your box and sketch the cord layout that I wanted. from there you can adjust the box size as necessary. Just make sure you leave some room for future expansion in the final product.
 
If you make the sides removable, I suggest making a lip or holes with pegs along with the magnetic strips. Partly for support, but mostly so placing the sides back on is easy. I did something similar with a stand (without the lip or pegs) and putting it back exactly level and at the exact right height was kind of annoying. Personally instead I would make the whole sides swing open like a door, with the front attached to one of the sides, if there would be enough room around the tank.

As far as support, that depends on the tank. Most glass tanks only need support around the frame, while acrylics need to be on a whole flat surface. Either way if the stand is that much wider, I'd just put a piece of 3/4" wood going across the top for it to sit on.
 
Make the supporting stand the exact size of the tank base, then make a cover for three sides. Front with door and the two sides, all in one piece, you can then slide the outer case off the frame leaving the tank standing on the supporting structure. I made the outer case about 1.5 inches higher than the inner frame to cover the poly pad and glass base of the tank. This design has the advantage of being able to change the look of the cabinet without having to move the tank. I changed my old oak case for a more modern gloss white one when we redecorated our front room.

I found there was no need to fix the outer case to the stand, as it would stay in place under its own weight.
 
For the removable sides you could use magnetic clasps or the same thing used to hold false drawer fronts on sink bases. There are several types of these on amazon if you search "false drawer front clip". As far as the outer dimensions, if you use 3/4 ply on the top you would likely be fine. However if it were me I would add bracing to run where the tank would sit (much like floor joists in a house). As far as the cord management goes there are several options available at local hardware stores that likely suit your needs. I would come up with the proposed size of your box and sketch the cord layout that I wanted. from there you can adjust the box size as necessary. Just make sure you leave some room for future expansion in the final product.

This is exactly what I was looking for! thank you!

If you make the sides removable, I suggest making a lip or holes with pegs along with the magnetic strips. Partly for support, but mostly so placing the sides back on is easy. I did something similar with a stand (without the lip or pegs) and putting it back exactly level and at the exact right height was kind of annoying. Personally instead I would make the whole sides swing open like a door, with the front attached to one of the sides, if there would be enough room around the tank.

As far as support, that depends on the tank. Most glass tanks only need support around the frame, while acrylics need to be on a whole flat surface. Either way if the stand is that much wider, I'd just put a piece of 3/4" wood going across the top for it to sit on.

Great tip I will definitely do this. I can just add some wood pegs to the corners and then drill holes just the right size. This should add a little more support and make it easy to put the side back on. Thank you!
 
Back
Top