Cabinet Door Hinges and Sealing Gap

[gt93pony]

I am working on building a stand and hood for a 180 gallon. I am not a woodworker so this has been a learning experience for me. I borrowed routers, saws, etc from friends and here is the results so far. I still need to sand, stain and lacquer. My question at this point is...How can I close the gap between the cabinet door and frame? I was considering using a roundover bit with the router but wasn't sure it this was a good idea. I used a 35mm forstner bit to countersink the hinge and used Blum 38N hinges.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[davocean]

You should be able to just adjust those blum hinges, there should be an adjustment screw.
Nice job, especially for using borrowed gear.
I would suggest polyurethane clear over stain rather than a laquer, it stays more flexible, does not chip like laquers do.

 

[gt93pony]

You should be able to just adjust those blum hinges, there should be an adjustment screw.
Nice job, especially for using borrowed gear.
I would suggest polyurethane clear over stain rather than a laquer, it stays more flexible, does not chip like laquers do.

The problem is the corner of the door hits the cabinet itself. Technically you can adjust to zero gap but you cannot open the door.

As far as poly or lacquer, I discussed this with a local cabinet shop where I purchased the trim. He says lacquer is the way to go because it will not yellow over time and you can repair easily. I am really torn on which route to take.

Thanks for the reply.

 

[CuzzA]

You could attach thin wood on the door inside of the opening to fill the gap or use adhesive backed door sweeps. I did the latter. Home Depot sell them.

 

[jlanger]

Just based in the pictures (#3 specifically), the issue of the door hitting the face frame could come from a couple of sources.

A: The hinge is installed on the door stile incorrectly.
Did you place the hinges in the correct location according to the installation instructions?

B: The overlay of the door is incorrect for the hinge.
If you have a hinge that is made for ½" overlay of the face frame, the door's overlay may be made too large and is binding on the face frame.

Those series of Blum hinges are made to have a slight gap between the door and face frame anyways.
The two little tabs on the mounting plate are designed to clip onto the face of the opening. Even when the hinge is adjusted all the way back, there will be a gap. The hinge needs that gap so when the door opens, it has room for the back of the door to swing past the pivot point of the hinge.

As far as a finish goes, I always sprayed on several coats of a pre-catalyzed lacquer finish and have not had any issues.
But either finish will work when applied correctly.

 

[woodnaquanut]

Jason has it correct. IIRC Jason is a pro cabinet maker. You should check out his build listed in his sig.

For the gap, it looks a bit large. It should be at about Lincon's hair line not his eyes. That is adjustable.

The distance from the hinge mortise to the edge of the stile is critical to make it open correctly. If you go to far (1 mm is to far!) it can bind. I've never tried it but a slight round over of the inside hinge stile might give you the clearance you need.

If it were my doors, I'd adjust it in till it started to bind and call it good. Just say to yourself the gap gives the sump more ventilation!

I've had good success with the Target Coating products of water borne lacquers. They do require spray application.

John...
Incredibly slow working hobbyist woodworker.

 

[gt93pony]

Jason has it correct. IIRC Jason is a pro cabinet maker. You should check out his build listed in his sig.

For the gap, it looks a bit large. It should be at about Lincon's hair line not his eyes. That is adjustable.

The distance from the hinge mortise to the edge of the stile is critical to make it open correctly. If you go to far (1 mm is to far!) it can bind. I've never tried it but a slight round over of the inside hinge stile might give you the clearance you need.

If it were my doors, I'd adjust it in till it started to bind and call it good. Just say to yourself the gap gives the sump more ventilation!

I've had good success with the Target Coating products of water borne lacquers. They do require spray application.

John...
Incredibly slow working hobbyist woodworker.

I am not so worried about the stand but it will drive me crazy if light escapes the hood. Is there a different hinge that would meet my needs?

Thanks!

 

[woodnaquanut]

I am not so worried about the stand but it will drive me crazy if light escapes the hood. Is there a different hinge that would meet my needs?

Thanks!

I don't know. Light escaping in a typical kitchen cabinet is not really an issue. Blum might make something.

If you want it really light tight you might need to do some sort of foam seal.

There are also neat hinges that raise the door vertically. I don't know if they are more light tight but they would get the doors completely out of your way while working in there.

Perhaps Jason will chime back in. He's a pro, I just play one on TV! :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:

 

[jlanger]

Typically there is not much light that leaks through when your doors have an overlay of ½" or more.
I have lights inside my stand and the only light that spills through is from the gap between the two doors. This doesn't bother me as those lights only turn on during the overnight hours.
Being that your canopy doors are not paired together and do not have a gap, you should be fine; as long as the doors have a ½"+ overlay.

John's suggestion of a foam seal is a good one if any light does bother you.
There's got to be some type of a self adhesive gasket tape out there; possibly weather-stripping.

If you really want a flush installation, you could try using clips that we use for removable false fronts and panels.
http://www.wwhardware.com/surface-mount-panel-connectors-panelconnector (Model H262.49.310)
They will hold your door panels on very tight; requires a bit of a "pop" to remove the panel.


Thanks for the props, John.
If I am a pro, why am I still paid like an amateur?

 

[intyme]

I was thinking foam too

 

[woodnaquanut]

If I am a pro, why am I still paid like an amateur?

PAID = PRO
plain and simple

:lolspin:

 

[intyme]

Haha you get paid weekly..... Very weakly