Calcium Reactor, Kalk, or 2-part?

[Msleckro]

I'm currently setting up a 120gal set up which will be mostly SPS. I'm not sure if I want to run a calcium reactor, kalk, or 2-part. The set up will be in the basement. I have a Korallin C1502 reactor but I'm thinking about selling it. I have a controller so dosing 2-part won't be hard either. I'm just looking for some guidance here. I keep thinking that if I use the Calcium Reactor i'll have trouble with the parameters because its in the basement. HELP! :headwallblue:

 

[AdamSabina]

I find 2 part to be easy and BRS has a great little kit including most everything. I tried kalk as the tanks demand wasn't that great. It's seems that even with low demand and a gallon a day of evaporation kalk was falling behind. I never tried a calcium reactor but I've heard they are hard to set up.

 

[jda]

Calcium Reactor is by far the best in the long term. The basement does not matter at all. To set up a Calcium Reactor, you have to read some instructions, use your brain and have some patience - it can take several days to get it right. After a while, you will be able to just look at your reactor bubbles and effluent and tell if it is in range. I test mine once a month.

As your SPS grow, you will get dependent on dosing pumps and other types of complication for either 2 part or kalk where setting up the Korallin would have been just as easy, or easier. Plus, IMO, there are 2 kinds of dosing pumps... those that have stuck on and those that will.

 

[michael.lemke]

Jda convinced me to go with a calcium reactor a few months back and I'll never go back!

 

[Msleckro]

Calcium Reactor is by far the best in the long term. The basement does not matter at all. To set up a Calcium Reactor, you have to read some instructions, use your brain and have some patience - it can take several days to get it right. After a while, you will be able to just look at your reactor bubbles and effluent and tell if it is in range. I test mine once a month.

As your SPS grow, you will get dependent on dosing pumps and other types of complication for either 2 part or kalk where setting up the Korallin would have been just as easy, or easier. Plus, IMO, there are 2 kinds of dosing pumps... those that have stuck on and those that will.

So you are staying I won't have a problem with my PH going too low with a calcium reactor and being in the basement? I'm definitely leaning towards using the calcium reactor. Then in the future when i need it, I'll use two part.

 

[ChloroPhil]

I'd go with the reactor. I used a mammoth dual tube one to maintain alkalinity in a 20,000 gallon holding pond for my research and it worked better than constantly testing and dosing buffers would have. We only needed to maintain 120 ppm alk, but doing that in a large volume with a relatively high COD was interesting. Imagine a pair of 6' tall 4" PVC tubes hooked up to a pool filter and you've got an idea.

 

[ct_vol]

I'm a big fan of reactors, but the truth is that both systems will work. As stated, Kalk reactors can have problems keeping up with high demands, but two part and Calcium reactors work great. I prefer to use a reactor with my larger systems because it is less maintenance once configured. I use two part for my nano and it works fine.

 

[Msleckro]

Thanks for the input. Do you guys use a ph probe to control the reactors at all??

 

[Boa1277]

I use a calcium reactor, and Kalk it works really well and I do not get the side affects of low PH form C02 and I don't have to worry about the Kalk not keeping up. I do have a heavy calcium load, if I turn both off my Alk will drop 3 to 4 dkh in a 24hr period, this may make it easier and it's definitely not overkill.

 

[jda]

Low tank PH is mainly a biproduct of having too much CO2 in the ambient air. Don't chase PH in a reef tank - keep the alk stable and don't sweat it.

I don't use a PH controller for my reactors - I dial them in by hand they stay stable. Some people will turn the CO2 solenoid off/on with a PH controller, but this introducing another point of failure and will wear out solenoids. If you can just get a nice 10 bubble to 40 drip ratio, you will get pretty close and you can fine tune from there.

 

[williewilliams]

The reactor you have does not need a PH probe like others per the manufacturer. I read up on it as I was thinking of buying the one you have listed for sale. I guess you aren't selling it of the other stuff anymore.

 

[tdb320reef]

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Kalk and CA/RX on tanks bigger than 180 and 3 part on less is what I recommend.

 

[Msleckro]

The reactor you have does not need a PH probe like others per the manufacturer. I read up on it as I was thinking of buying the one you have listed for sale. I guess you aren't selling it of the other stuff anymore.

Yea. Sorry I've been having second thoughts after I put it up for sale. Looks like I'm going to be using it... Thanks for the help everyone. Any addition information on this will be greatly appreciated.

 

[jda]

Get a reliable feed pump, or tee off of your return pump. Even 1 gallon per hour is too much for most systems. Filter the input so that you don't get organic junk in the reactor. Buy a good regulator - I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH. Use the coarse media. The mini-ball valve on the output that comes with the Korallin is prone to get clogged up IME, so get a flow control pinch. Mini ball valves on the input are pretty reliable if you have a filter on the input to keep organics out.

Test your tank for a baseline. Get the reactor going to where you are getting about 40 drips a minute and about 10 bubbles a minute. Let it go for a day, or so, test effluent output for PH, dKh and Calcium. The PH should be around 6.6 to 6.7, or so. Write these numbers down and start a log with both TANK parameters and REACTOR parameters. Test your tank every day or two for the next few weeks to see if you are stable, up or down with alk and calcium. Add the tank parameters to your log. Keep roughly the same ratio and just increase or decrease so that the PH, calcium and alk are roughly the same. After a while, you won't need the log anymore, but it will really help at first while you figure stuff out.

Once you get to where you cannot count drips anymore, measure the effluent in MLs per minute and use your ratio. You should never get to where you cannot count bubbles in all but the most large tanks with super high true coral growth.

Some people like to decrease the PH down to 6.5, or lower, to get more output, but I like to increase the ratio as a pair, keep the PH around 6.6 or 6.7. If you get the PH too low, the media will turn to mush (literally) and you will ruin it. To each their own...

Remember that reactors are to maintain, not to increase. You will still need some calcium chloride and baking/washing soda if you want to increase your alk and calcium. To lower your numbers, you can just shut off the CO2 until you decrease to where you want (this can happen VERY fast in high demand systems, so be careful if your tank has a LOT of stonies). In most cases, the alk and calcium will get used mostly in balance, but in my tanks with lots of clams, I need to add a bit of calcium chloride every month to keep up. Once you get the feel for it, just look at the bubbles and effluent stream/drip every, or so, and check your parameters ever few weeks or a month. I test about every other weekend.

 

[Stolireef]

"Buy a good regulator - I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH"

Plus one on this. It makes all the difference in controlling things. I installed the Aquarium Plants electronic regulator on my Geo and couldn't be happier. Among my best reef purchases ever.

"Remember that reactors are to maintain, not to increase"

I think this is a bit too broad of a statement. I can increase my Ca/kH by increasing the effluent and bubble rate on my reactor. It does take time since the adjustments are small and I wouldn't use it for a major increase but otherwise, I prefer to make adjustments in small increments so it works well for me.

 

[Msleckro]

Thanks again for the great information. I'll take all this into account.

So the pump really doesnt need to be strong at all. I think I might just plumb it into my system since my system is not set up yet...?? How long does the media usually last on average? and how do you know when it needs to be changed out?

What are some other good regulators? I don't no if i really want to spend $300 on a new regulator.

 

[Stolireef]

First, the type of pump will be determined by the reactor setup. A T off the return with a ball valve for adjustment is a good clean choice. I just use a small Sicce pump and it works fine. How long the media lasts is dependent upon how aggressively you run the reactor which, in turn, is determine by how much your uptake is. In my still young 110, media lasts for about 6 months.

As for the regulator, I can tell you from years of experience that it is the most critical part of the reactor and going cheap will cause you long term pain. From what I have seen the regulators that ship with reactors just don't cut it. The Aquarium Plants regulator is pricey but well worth the money. If you decide to go the needle valve route, I'd strongly suggest filling your bubble counter with oil so that it's easier to regulate your bubble rate.

 

[Msleckro]

Sorry for the million question but i'm learning everything i can.

What are my other choices besides needle valves?

 

[Stolireef]

That's about the only choice other than an electronic regulator. The needle valves come in many quality levels and price. Go cheap and you'll have a headache.

 

[jda]

I have found the Pinpoint Regulator to be very reliable over the years. Milwaukee was not so good for me. I will be getting an aquarium plants next time, but the Pinpoints have not let me down yet.

I forgot, use a good check valve or your high dollar regulator and needle valve will corrode and be useless.