Calcium reactor operation?

scbadiver

New member
Ok, I finally broke down and hooked one up. Over the last few weeks my alk has come up from about 4 dkh to 9.6. This is a good thing. My PH has actually come up a bit too. runs about 8 to 8.1 for the low and up to about 8.3 at lights out. Those are both good things but....my calcium level has only moved from 250ppm to about 255 or 260ppm. Am I being impatient or am I doing something wrong? Do I need to raise it manually with calcium chloride and just have the reactor to maintain the level? Also, is my alk going to continue up off the charts? As usual I feel a little lost on this. Thanks for any input folks!
 
you need to raise yor parameters manually to the numbers you want to target for calcium and alk....

once your reach your target, then the calcium reactor will maintain those levels if it is dailed in correctly...

if you want to keep you alk at somewhere between 9-10 dkh you should shoot for just raising you calcium ONLY to around 420-430ppm...

i would go for 430 ppm....

also make sure your magnesium is at NSW levels (1300-1450ppm)

check out this calculator http://jdieck1.home.comcast.net/chemcalc.html

you can also use it to dail in your reactor once you have manually raised your levels to your desired parameters.....
 
My Mag is currently running about 1350 to 1400 as of last Saturday. I haven't done anything other than hook this gizmo to the tank to raise the alk. That is why I'm concerned it will keep climbing. I will check out the link you gave me. Thank you.
 
keep in mind that calcium and alkalinity have adverse reactions to one another....

sooooo........

if you raise one, the other will drop

once you add in the calcium by hand things should start to level out. then do your test every other day for about a week, and make the necessary adjustments to the reactor.....
 
AH HA.....So when I manually bring up the Ca the alk levels out. I understand. The reactor won't actually bring UP the calcium but will HOLD it once there if it is set right? I'm going to start dripping in some Ca tonight then. Thank you sooo much.
 
good point chad....

it is important to do your adjustments very gradually, and when you make the changes to the ca reactor, be sure to only adjust one at a time...and dont adjust again for 24 hrs. (after of course you do your test to see if it is necessary to adjust again.....).

meaning, if you adjust the effluent drip rate, then dont adjust the
co2 bubble count, and vice versa....
 
Greek

Greek

You guys are talking Greek. If I have a problem like you have I can see me running in circles tearing my hair out. O wait I already did that. Well a least drinking more if that's possible..
 
Re: Greek

Re: Greek

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7686896#post7686896 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Larry At
You guys are talking Greek. If I have a problem like you have I can see me running in circles tearing my hair out. O wait I already did that. Well a least drinking more if that's possible..

larry i am local and i would help you as much as i can
 
You can raise your Calcium as much as you want in a night, but not the Alk, only do it in stages. Once you raise your calcium be sure to keep checking your ALK level and you may have to adjust your reactor some. One of the best options you can buy for your reactor is a PH controller. It will make adjusting it easy.
 
Re: Calcium reactor operation?

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7686192#post7686192 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbadiver
Ok, I finally broke down and hooked one up. Over the last few weeks my alk has come up from about 4 dkh to 9.6. This is a good thing. My PH has actually come up a bit too. runs about 8 to 8.1 for the low and up to about 8.3 at lights out. Those are both good things but....my calcium level has only moved from 250ppm to about 255 or 260ppm. Am I being impatient or am I doing something wrong? Do I need to raise it manually with calcium chloride and just have the reactor to maintain the level? Also, is my alk going to continue up off the charts? As usual I feel a little lost on this. Thanks for any input folks!

Here are some things to consider:

a) Calcium reactors are a balanced addition of Calcium and Alkalinity, For every 2.8 dKh of Alkalinity added it will add 20 ppm of Calcium. This is that if you start with low calcium in proportion to Alkalinity the Calcium will stay relatively low unless you adjust it manually with Calcium Chloride or a Calcium only supplement.

b) You Alkalinity has increased. This means your reactor is adding more than your tank requirments. The easiest method is to adjust the reactor to just keep alkalinity constant. In most cases Calcium will be maintained if Alkalinity is maintained so watch your Alkalinity during the adjustment process.
To reduce the output you can reduce the amount of CO2 being added or the amount of effluent from the reactor or both.
Here you basically have to play with two variables that affect each other; the amount of CO2 and the amount of effluent.
Note that reducing the effluent only will tend to reduce the effluent PH, if the effluent PH drops below 6.5 you also need to reduce the amount of CO2.
Reducing the CO2 only will increase the effluent PH if the PH increase to above 6.8 you may need to also reduce the effluent or increase the amount of CO2.
Never use your reactor to try to increase levels or you will never be able to keep a stable adjustment.
Reactors take time to stabilize, make small adjustments and wait at least 24 hours before retesting insuring the effluent and CO2 rates are stable during this period.
I strongly recommend using an electronic PH monitor as with a test kit it will be almost imposible to adjust the effluent PH.
To measure the effluent you can use a stop watch and a measuring cup. colect the effluent in the cup over a period of one minute and measure the amount of water collected, that will be your rate per minute.
A minimum effluent to prevent plugging and maintain it stable shall be around 30 to 40 ml/min. and a maximum of 100 to 130 ml/min depending on the reactor capacity.
A minimum effluent PH I would recommend is 6.5 and a maximum of 6.8

c) Once your alkalinity is maintain constant by your reactor regardless of the level then you can adjust your Calcium and Alkalinity if necessary using Calcium Chloride and Baking Soda.

d) A Calcium Reactor do not add Magnesium unless you use a magnesium rich media which is unusuall so Magnesium will have to be added manually as required.

e) for better results try dripping the effluent into a cup where the PH probe can be placed and let the cup overflow near the suction of the skimmer, this will help venting any excess CO2 for a better tank PH maintenance.

f) Once you get familiar with the reactor and its beheaviour to different adjustments this calculator might be able to take you to the next level.
http://jdieck1.home.comcast.net/reactor.html

g) For manual adjustments you can use the chemistry calculator, there are two versions, the traditional one posted in the link above or a flash version with added support.
http://jdieck1.home.comcast.net/chem_calc3.html

Good luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Wow, lots of great info here. Thanks to all. With looking at all this here is what I have set up. I have a milwaukee regulator and controller on this thing and the effluent is running between 6.5 and 6.6 constantly due to the controller. I was told to "just use crushed coral substrate for media", is that ok too? According to what you say here if my Alk is where I want it now I should start adjusting the reactor to hold it here? I have not touched anything on the reactor adjustments since putting it on the tank. I dripped some calcium into the tank yesteday but haven't tested yet today. Thanks again for all the help and info. you all are a great resource for me!!
 
Hey Chad, I'd sure appreciate it if you had some time, anytime, to make a "house call" and get your input, advice and help on my tank. I'm just about a mile from MS, behind Lindenwood. Let me know. Thanks
 
Yes, excellent information from everyone. I too am trying to dial in my DIY calcium reactor and am finding it very difficult.

Scbadiver - what brand reactor are you using? Are you using crushed coral? I'm using ARM and it keeps clogging my reactor then melting. I have some larger media arriving today that I'm going to try.

-Mike
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7689971#post7689971 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbadiver
Wow, lots of great info here. Thanks to all. With looking at all this here is what I have set up. I have a milwaukee regulator and controller on this thing and the effluent is running between 6.5 and 6.6 constantly due to the controller. I was told to "just use crushed coral substrate for media", is that ok too? According to what you say here if my Alk is where I want it now I should start adjusting the reactor to hold it here? I have not touched anything on the reactor adjustments since putting it on the tank. I dripped some calcium into the tank yesteday but haven't tested yet today. Thanks again for all the help and info. you all are a great resource for me!!
If you have not added alkalinity and it has rised from 4 to 9 dKh then the reactor is adding more than what you need. For the time being try reducing the effluent only, the controller will keep the PH between 6.5 and 6.6. Later on you want to manually adjust your PH so it try to stay within the 6.5 to 6.6 range or to very slowly move from 6.6 to 6.5, this is to reduce the workload on the controller so it does not have to switch on and off constantly. This will also help reduce the impact in case the controller fails and stay opened.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7690136#post7690136 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mpcart
Are you using crushed coral? I'm using ARM and it keeps clogging my reactor then melting. I have some larger media arriving today that I'm going to try.

-Mike
Crushed coral is fine to use if it comes from the sea. Crushed coral from aquariums or coral farms were corals were grown in tanks may contain too much phosphate.
Try keeping your PH above 6.5 to help prevent the media turning into mud, that will help prevent the clogging.
 
Ok. Man this working thing is really getting in my way today, I want to go test water and stuff!! That really makes sense to manually adjust so the controller is working overtime. I didn't even consider that. I'm using a corallife 500 reactor. My Gal bought me one at MS the same day I had ordered one with some other stuff mail order. I naturally hooked up my new toy right away and figured I'd return the other one when I got it. Well, it leaked, badly, right where the pump motor attached. I messed with the oring, replaced the oring, siliconed it etc to no avail. Since she couldn't really afford it anyway I had her return that one. When the other one came guess what? it leaks at the same spot though just barely a drip so I kept it and just wipe it up once in a while and hope it finally stops on its own. Being in the basement it wont hurt anything. I'm hoping to make my own later but I wanted to understand the operation better before I make one. This thread has been very enlightening. I had no idea what I was in for!
 
I love my calcium reactor...it works perfectly. I use ARM and haven't had to mess with additives much at all, it has done what it is supposed to do. It is the best investment I made for my system. Once dialed in, which took a solid week, it has performed flawlessly.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7690413#post7690413 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by scbadiver
it leaks at the same spot though just barely a drip so I kept it and just wipe it up once in a while and hope it finally stops on its own. Being in the basement it wont hurt anything.
Many times the O ring just dries out. The best I found for those cases is a bit of silicone grease to lubricate the O ring and the housing were it sits. Do not use TFE sealt or silicon, it will just make a mess out of it.
If the O ring seats too loosely and you can extract it from the grove without damaging it, (I use a pin to pull it out) you can put a couple of strings of Teflon Tape in the bottom of the grove then insert the lubricated O ring back in the grove and attach it. That shall provide some additional tightness.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7690826#post7690826 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sirreal63
Once dialed in, which took a solid week.
You were lucky! some of us mess with it for over a month before we are able to get any stability :lol:
 
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