Calfo Style Overflow boxes

I used a type of glass called greylite for the front and sides of my box here is a picture. Thinking I am going to window tint the back of my tank so its dark yet see through because I want to be able to see back there! Hope this helps or what you were wondering.


100_0003-1.jpg


Eric
 
i believe the accept. measurement is 1.5 of the dia of the hole to be drilled from the edge of the glass, so 66 m hole should be drilled no close then 199 from the edge. As far as ghosting the horz. over flo everythinging in black if u look at the front pic wit my little girl u can't c the overflo but it is there as to be seen front the top pic
 
Thank you =)

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12065401#post12065401 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by DeathWish302
socalchris:

I have a 60mm hole for the sched. 80 Hayward bulkheads roughly 3" from where I believe the glass stops behind the trim on my Oceanic 58g. I had it filled with water for 48hrs after the overflow had cured for a week. No problems. Since I'm paranoid and over-think EVERYTHING (see occupation), I went with 3/8" glass for the overflow. I haven't ran the analysis on Ansys or Algor, but I bet with the addition of the extra bracing from the overflow that you could make the area behind it swiss cheese with no concerns of stress failure. I think the real key is to not create stress risers by drilling holes with really jagged edges. This I feel could result in the overall failure of the pane if a area doesn't chip out a "scalloped" piece, but creates a chip that merges to a finite point. Just my hypothesis.

DW302
Click to expand...
 
kentrob:

I really think the only way to hide an external overflow would be some sort of epoxy paint on the interior of the back glass. An acrylic curtain or maybe glass for that matter would be the only way to cover the "open" overflow interior if you didn't want to go the epoxy paint path. I think there is no way around the seams unless you cover the interior of the tank. Maybe black silicone, but I'm uncertain to the degree it would become translucent when only a thin layer between two pieces of glass.
If your routing a "notch" in the top of the glass for the external overflow, I really don't think an internal acrylic mask would be that hard to keep clean. If your drilling holes for the overflow, that could be a HUGE PITA, besides difficulty with the hole in the back glass and acrylic mask to have a true position.

What are your plans for this overflow, or what is the current configuration if already constructed???
 
I have read most of this LONG thread and it has inspired me to make a Calfo style overflow in my 29 gallon tank. I also want to incorporate a closed loop SCWD wavemaker to the tank. Is this possible?

I was thinking i should use 3 1 inch bulkheads for the Bean Silent and fail safe overflow system.

Then i would need either 1 or 2 more 1 inch bulkheads to run the closed loop SCWD wavemaker.

So thats 4-5 1 inch bulkheads along the 30.25 inch backside of the tank. Will this overflow draw enough water to supply 4-5 1 inch bulkheads with water? Should i just not do the SCWD wavemaker?

Please help any advice is welcome.
 
you shouldnt feed the closed loop with your overflow.

drill an additional hole under your overflow for a 1.5 or 2" bulkhead to feed your wavemaker.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13034888#post13034888 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by saltee dood
you shouldnt feed the closed loop with your overflow.

drill an additional hole under your overflow for a 1.5 or 2" bulkhead to feed your wavemaker.
Click to expand...

agree.

the whole point of a coast to coast overflow is to surface skim well This dirty surface skimmed water should be sent to the skimmer for the organics to be removed from the system permanently

recircing this surface skimmed water through a closed loop back to the tank defeats the entire purpose and you might as well be surface skimming through a single durso in the tank
 
I have not gotten the glass in yet for the calfo overflow but its going along the back side of the whole tank. both pieces are 29.25 long and 4 inches wide.

This is my second tank build and i wanted to apply some new plumbing tactics that i had been reading up on. For this tank i started by drilling nine 1.75 inch holes for 1 inch bulkheads. The top three holes are for the Calfo Overflow and the 3 standpipes put together Here. The other six holes are for the Closed Loop SCWD. This is the first time i have ever drilled a tank or done any type of plumbing like this. It sure was a jigsaw puzzle to piece together both systems at the same time.

Here are some pictures:
 
Point / counter point.

Point / counter point.

you shouldnt feed the closed loop with your overflow.
Click to expand...


From Austin Oceans website :

Don't install your closed loop circulation input bulkheads below the waterline and then just put a strainer on it unless you have a Fish Only tank. If you have a reef tank, see what the experts say:

"We have seen many aquariums equipped with recirculating pumps with the intake plumbed through the wall of the aquarium (either a side or the bottom), and outfitted with a strainer to prevent fish from being slurped into the motor. This technique works fine for fish-only aquariums, but is a disaster in the reef tank. Don't make this mistake! Wandering clownfish anemones, loose mushroom anemones, algae, sea cucumbers, and other creatures end up against the strainer and often, through the pump. They become reef puree. The design of choice with this arrangement is to simply put the intake in the overflow."

The Reef Aquarium, Volume Three, Science, Art, and Technology (J. Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung) Chapter 7, Water Motion, page 408.


Its almost a sure bet that someone can argue just the opposite and confuse the issue using that darn logic thingy.:rollface:
 
That is very shortsighted on the part of whoever wrote it.

The better solution would be to split the intake into (2) or more strainers, using 1 or more TEES inside the tank. Covering 1 of the intakes will simply allow the flow to be diverted to another, no different than a safety intake in a spa or pool.

Frankly, after looking at the website you posted above.. I am not impressed with advice in many instances. Toothed overflows reduce surface skimming by a large factor. Their "calfo style" center overflow defeats the purpose of a "calfo style" overflow. Kinda funny...
 
That is very shortsighted on the part of whoever wrote it.
Click to expand...


Its an excerpt from:


The Reef Aquarium, Volume Three, Science, Art, and Technology (J. Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung) Chapter 7, Water Motion, page 408.
 
The top three holes are for the calfo style over flow and the other six are for the closed loop system. The two middle bulkheads are the intake and it has a threaded screen on them. Bean you are 100% correct if there are 2 intakes there should be no problems with stuff getting suctioned to the intake. The two bulkheads on either side in the middle are the returns and they have a hot tub jet type bulkhead in them. I plan on putting a Yellow blue spotted jawfish in the tank so i got to find a good way to stop stuff from going back into the return holes as half the time they will be off due to the alternating flow.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13162644#post13162644 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by T1adler
Its an excerpt from:


The Reef Aquarium, Volume Three, Science, Art, and Technology (J. Charles Delbeek and Julian Sprung) Chapter 7, Water Motion, page 408.
Click to expand...

Makes it no less shortsighted :)
 
I have two intakes on my closed loop, and I had an anemone caught in one of them once. I'm sure if I had only one intake, the anemone would have been pureed through the pump.

But I would definitely never put the intake in the overflow.
 
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