Calfo Style Overflow boxes

Are you talking about the OF? At 24" I would think that 1/4" or maybe even 3/16" would work. Theres really very little pressure on it and besides its submergered in the tank. I would think any of the home inprovement places could cut it for you.

I just read your post again, what are your plans for the drain?

HTH
Tim
 
Sorry - I meant 3/16" Wow 3/8 for the overflow walls :). I'm still working on that part - it seems 2 - 1" bulkheads out the back will give me the flow I need. I am double checking to make sure the back glass on my AGA 75G (made in 1996) ia not tempered.

I'm not sure how deep I want the overflow as I like the style of trmiv's less wide overflow with just the bulkhead holes out the back - no elbow.

Jer
 
I guess my question is where are you going to drain things. If you want identical flow then just plumb both where you want them to go. If not (JMO) plumb both 1" into a 1.5" and then split with vavles at each place. This will allow for more versatility in the drain system.
Again JMO
Tim

BTW trimv set-up is slick, Thats the way I would go! I doubt that your tank is tempered but better to check before you drill.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6749839#post6749839 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by jet_jer
This is great - I was pointed to this link from a thread I joind in on regarding replacing the HOB overflow with other options...
Jer
Click to expand...

Hey Jer, that was me who pointed you here. I'm glad you found it. Lots of great info!

There are lots of places that will tell you what thickness glass to use. For one go to http://www.garf.org/, click on "DIY Pages" and then "Tank Building." Obviously you aren't building a tank. Just put in the dimensions of the overflow you want to make 24 x 4? x 6?. It will tell you the thickness to use, just ignore the rest of the info. For the above dimensions is says 1/4".

To determine the bulkhead size, use the overflow/drain size calculator on the Reef Central main page. If your mag 9 puts out 900 gph the calculator says 1.24 inches. Of course, that's for one drain. From what I've read here, if you use 2 drains, you can go down to the next smaller size, which would be 1 inch.

If your pump is rated at 900 gph, you won't get quite that much if your sump is below your tank. See the Head loss calculator, also on the main page, to find what exactly the flow will be for your situation.
 
I just purchased the glass from a local glass company (Great Glass plate Company) - real nice people and cheap price on 20% tinted glass. I had 4 pieces cut - 2 sides of 4.25 tall - 2.5 wide, bottom 24"x 2.75 and front of 24" x 4.25. This should give me a box that is 24" long by 2.5 wide including glass. I'll drill holes once I get the bulkheads in my posession as AGA returned my email and stated that the bottom is tempered but he sides are not.

When you silicone the glass pieces together, do you run a bead along the glass edge then press together and seal the joint, or do you just place the pieces in the right spod and seal the joint?

Thanks for the help and I'll post pics.

Whats everyone's thought on the slots towardds the top of the overflow?

Jer
 
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I ran a bead along the edge of the box, then pressed it against the glass.

I will not do the teeth again, as they did little in preventing fish and such from going over. They also took a deal of time to make.
 
SLots are usless and reduce your surface skimming by at least half (in most cases).

The most important part is to get the top edge of the overflow perfectly level. Remember it will be thin sheet of water, so if this thing isn't level, one side will be dry (or nearly dry)!

The only thing I have ever had go over my overflow is a cleaner wrasse. He would fit through ANY teeth I have ever seen anyway. A simple bridal veil box around my bulkhead inlets keeps him from taking the plunge when he does decide to cruise the overflow channel. After the 4th time, I think he has decided that staying in the tank is much funner.

Bean
 
okay, I've been searching all the horizontal overflow threads and haven't come across my answer.

My tank will be set up as a room divider with three viewable sides. Which means I would like everything drilled on the short end of the tank (side). Will it be too much stress on a 24" side to have 4 holes drilled? 2 for drains at the top, and two lower to feed a closed loop?
This would be for a 6 foot 210g tank.
 
It will be safer than on the "long side" as the short side of the tank has much less flex to it. The pressure on all 4 sides is the same per square in, the sides however tend to bow because of their length and the holes may allow a crack to form.

Bean
 
I contacted the manufacturer (Oceanic) about my 2 tanks and asked them for recommendations for drilling the tanks. Here's what they said,

Since we don't want our tanks altered in way, because it will void your warranty, I cannot give you recommendations on the distance to drill holes. You need to talk to a professional in that file, who can answer it for you.
Click to expand...

Even when I told them the tanks were already out of warrantee it made no difference. They still would not help me. And when I asked about it at an LFS, they did not sound very confident or re-assuring.

I've been trying to get a handle on the do's and don'ts on hole placement for sometime. There seem to be lots of opinion's but nothing is consistent. I realize its probably a matter of everyone's comfort zone. But aren't their any general rules to follow? I'm going to be drilling (2) 1-3/4" holes in the back of each of 2 tanks (110 G - 60" long, 125 G - 72" long) somewhere near the top for the overflow. I would like to know the best place to put them. How close to the top should I go? Is it better to put them a foot or two from the ends or nearer to the edge?
 
I've drilled about 4 tanks and I always made sure the edge of the hole was no closer than the total diameter's distance from the edge. so say it was a 1.5 inch hole, it's edge would be no closer than 1.5" from the top or side of the tank.
 
Pics of frags growing on boxes.

This is a reflection shot, but you can see zoanthids growing on it. Oh, and they are right under a 400 watt mh, who said buttons didn't like real bright light?
reflectionOfEastCoastFrag.jpg


Here you can see a couple acro frags.
rightside01.jpg



Hopefully got better pics coming.
 
So I've read the thread twice and I can't find a reference for my question - how far from the top of the tank is everyone placing the top of their linear overflow(s)?
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6771616#post6771616 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by aroundtuit
I contacted the manufacturer (Oceanic) about my 2 tanks and asked them for recommendations for drilling the tanks. Here's what they said,



Even when I told them the tanks were already out of warrantee it made no difference. They still would not help me. And when I asked about it at an LFS, they did not sound very confident or re-assuring.

I've been trying to get a handle on the do's and don'ts on hole placement for sometime. There seem to be lots of opinion's but nothing is consistent. I realize its probably a matter of everyone's comfort zone. But aren't their any general rules to follow? I'm going to be drilling (2) 1-3/4" holes in the back of each of 2 tanks (110 G - 60" long, 125 G - 72" long) somewhere near the top for the overflow. I would like to know the best place to put them. How close to the top should I go? Is it better to put them a foot or two from the ends or nearer to the edge?
Click to expand...

Aroundtuit, did you ever received a answer from other manufacturer about drilling 4 holes in the short side of the tank, I'm planing to have a tank vivewable from 3 side so I was wondering what was the rule of thumbs for it.
Thanks
 
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