Calfo Style Overflow boxes

[flyyyguy]

actually, the parallel thing is very easy. it is adjusted on both ends just as you would adjust the total desired height. by sliding the end(s) up to adjust. they are not glued in place...just slip fitted which makes the entire slotted assembly adjustable and removable for cleaning if ever need be

Powdertang....that stormtrooper is hilarious LOL

 

[Reef This]

I have so many questions, and no one seems to answer my posts, so I'll just ask here.

First, I plan on using a Eheim 1260 return pump for a 75. With head pressure, I'd guess about 500gph through the overflows. Can I get away with 3/4 inch? I don't want much more flow as I have 2 Tunze streams that I've already ordered. I'm also having trouble understanding the external durso pipe people have mentioned?

Also, what size would you recommend for the 2 boxes? I was thinking of 20x6x3 and gluing in little tabs of glass to set egg crate on.

And, what type of paint do you use to paint the back glass?

Also, I was doing a little searching on here. It seems the Sched 80 bulkheads use a 1 5/8 inch hole, but a 40mm bit is too small at 1.574 inches and a 41mm bit is 1.617 inches. Should I buy the bigger bit? or the smaller? Or should I just use the Sched 40 bulkheads instead of the 80's?

I'm sorry for so many questions, but I've been around this hobby for a while and never taken the step to do this stuff myself, but I'm going to when I set up my 75 next month. This thread has inspired me, simply because it really is a cheap, simply solution to buying a drilled tank. I also personally find it less intrusive, and alot cleaner looking.

-- Joe

 

[dtaranath]

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[dtaranath]

don't you hate when no one answers your posts? some answers below in red. hope it helps.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10236464#post10236464 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef This
I have so many questions, and no one seems to answer my posts, so I'll just ask here.

First, I plan on using a Eheim 1260 return pump for a 75. With head pressure, I'd guess about 500gph through the overflows. Can I get away with 3/4 inch? I don't want much more flow as I have 2 Tunze streams that I've already ordered. I'm also having trouble understanding the external durso pipe people have mentioned?
-yes, you can get away with 3/4 inch, but perhaps 1 inch would be better. I have a 90 using an Eheim 1260, and I have two 1-inch returns from my overflow. My output is through one 3/4 inch which is split into two outputs. What exactly don't you understand about the durso?

Also, what size would you recommend for the 2 boxes? I was thinking of 20x6x3 and gluing in little tabs of glass to set egg crate on.
-that's fine. or, you could have a 48" coast to coast overflow, as mentioned in this thread. Either way, it would work. Just make sure your depth is enough that will allow you to pull out the elbow if needed. I ended up having to glue the eggcrate upright across the length of the overflow because I had fish ending up in my sump. When did fish learn to jump?

And, what type of paint do you use to paint the back glass?
-Krylon Fusion spray paint. Got it from walmart.

Also, I was doing a little searching on here. It seems the Sched 80 bulkheads use a 1 5/8 inch hole, but a 40mm bit is too small at 1.574 inches and a 41mm bit is 1.617 inches. Should I buy the bigger bit? or the smaller? Or should I just use the Sched 40 bulkheads instead of the 80's?
-you need a 42mm bit. 1 5/8 inches = 1.625inches, which is 41.3mm. If you got the 41mm bit, you would have to dremel the hole a little bit. As far as whether to use Sched 40 vs. 80, that's a personal preference. I like the 40. Some prefer the added security of a thicker bulkhead like the 80. I have 6 sched 40's on my tank.

I'm sorry for so many questions, but I've been around this hobby for a while and never taken the step to do this stuff myself, but I'm going to when I set up my 75 next month. This thread has inspired me, simply because it really is a cheap, simply solution to buying a drilled tank. I also personally find it less intrusive, and alot cleaner looking.
-you are so right! good luck!

-- Joe

 

[Reef This]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10237148#post10237148 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by dtaranath
don't you hate when no one answers your posts? some answers below in red. hope it helps.

Thanks for the response, just a couple more questions.

When you refer to the bulkheads, I was talking about two 3/4" bulkheads drilled into the tank. I was thinking of doing two 3/4" bulkheads for input to the sump. I think it's a 1" output nozzle on the 1260 anyway. I should use 1" bulkheads for output to the sump as well? I guess it couldn't hurt.. Won't the added size allow for more flow, causing maybe a little bit of noise problem?

I was looking for pictures of an external Durso, and I can't seem to find one. However, I think I get the idea. I think, I'm not really sure of the design I guess is the easiest way to put it.

The only reason I didn't want to go coast to coast was because of the Tunze's I have already bought. It's still an option.

When you refer to the elbow, I assume your talking about inside the weir or overflow, however you'd like to put it. I wasn't going to put an elbow inside the weir, this the reason it would only be 3" deep. Should I make it bigger to put an elbow in? Whats the advantage to an elbow? Noise reduction? Or?

Also, where is a good place to find a sump I can fit a Euro-Reef RS100 into? I was considering attempting my own, but don't have the "balls" to do it!

-- Joe

 

[kolokefalo]

Guysmilie,

I sent you a PM about this but I might as well ask here too. Doesn't cutting the trim from the middle back of the tank weaken the structure? I know its a Oceanic but could this cut weaken it to the point of leaking?

 

[dtaranath]

again, responses in red.

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10237344#post10237344 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Reef This
Thanks for the response, just a couple more questions.

When you refer to the bulkheads, I was talking about two 3/4" bulkheads drilled into the tank. I was thinking of doing two 3/4" bulkheads for input to the sump. I think it's a 1" output nozzle on the 1260 anyway. I should use 1" bulkheads for output to the sump as well? I guess it couldn't hurt.. Won't the added size allow for more flow, causing maybe a little bit of noise problem?
-the added size does allow for more flow, but you should have more flow into your sump so that it's not the rate limiting step in water return. Remember, while it allows for more flow, it will only return the amount that your pump will put back into the tank. If your return pump can only return 100gph, then 100gph is all that will enter your sump. If your return pump is 2000gph, then you better make sure you have enough drainage back into the sump to accommodate your pump strength.
-Are you sure about the 1" output on the 1260? Perhaps I have a 1262. I can't remember now. I do know that mine is 3/4".

I was looking for pictures of an external Durso, and I can't seem to find one. However, I think I get the idea. I think, I'm not really sure of the design I guess is the easiest way to put it.
-here's a picture of mine:

As you can see, i had to increase the size of the durso so that it eliminated the noise issue. The smaller the durso, the more noise I had. More pics in my gallery if you're interested.

The only reason I didn't want to go coast to coast was because of the Tunze's I have already bought. It's still an option.
-good point.

When you refer to the elbow, I assume your talking about inside the weir or overflow, however you'd like to put it. I wasn't going to put an elbow inside the weir, this the reason it would only be 3" deep. Should I make it bigger to put an elbow in? Whats the advantage to an elbow? Noise reduction? Or?
-the turned down elbows are helpful in noise reduction. You should make it so that it's there, just in case. The last thing you want to do is put in these overflows, and then end up with a slurping sound that could have been alleviated if you would have made enough room to put in elbows. I think with another 0.5" you should be able to fit one in.

Also, where is a good place to find a sump I can fit a Euro-Reef RS100 into? I was considering attempting my own, but don't have the "balls" to do it!
-I use an AGA Megaflow Sump Model 4, which can hold an ASM G3, which has the same footprint as the RS100. Looks like this:

The skimmer fits nicely in space 4.

-- Joe

 

[GuySmilie]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10241739#post10241739 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by kolokefalo
Guysmilie,

I sent you a PM about this but I might as well ask here too. Doesn't cutting the trim from the middle back of the tank weaken the structure? I know its a Oceanic but could this cut weaken it to the point of leaking?

Any time you cut into a pane of glass and change the stress factors of it, you increase the possibility of it breaking. However, if you employ sound design principles and pay attention to potential problem areas, you can dramatically lessen the chance of a failure.

If you cut your rear glass pane, do not make the corners of the plunge at sharp 90° angles to the horizontal overflow cut. This will cause points where stress will want to relieve itself. Make those corners with a smooth radius instead.

Also, if you look at my tank pix, the rear pane of glass has been dramatically strengthened (or stiffened) due to the nature of my gluing the overflow box onto it. In particular, the bottom pane of the overflow box. This has the same effect as the Euro bracing used on tanks built without plastic frames, like in acrylic tanks.

 

[xtm]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10226361#post10226361 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by flyyyguy
If this is OT...sorry.......


Im sure this has been done before......but here is my ghettofied version of a near coast to coast overflow "box" using nithing but 2 bulkheads and some PVC pipe. I set up a 46 gallon tank for a friend and came up with this. I use external coast to coast overflows on my tanks, but this was a super simple way to achieve near coast to coast surface skimming, it took less than a 1/2 hour to make and install and you cant even see it in the tank.

simply put.....2 bulkheads, 4 street elbows inside the tank and a piece of pipe with a groove cut out on the table saw 3 notches wide. The overflow is removable by simply lifting it out. The street L's are water tight this way. that part kind of surprised me as i figured over the course of a night it would drain down to the bulkheads...but they didnt.

pics...this of course doesnt go the entire length of the tank, more like 2/3...but it just as easily could have, and it skims the surface great. Its also no louder than the Snapper used to power the CLS.

Dude, you're a genius. There is a Calfo overflow, a StandPipe, and the Durso.. I call this the Flyyguy Overflow This is a space-saving design. What other "mods" have you done to reduce the noise? Did you drill any holes on the Tees and inserted an airline tubing? How loud is this?

thanks

 

[flyyyguy]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10791196#post10791196 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by xtm
Dude, you're a genius. There is a Calfo overflow, a StandPipe, and the Durso.. I call this the Flyyguy Overflow This is a space-saving design. What other "mods" have you done to reduce the noise? Did you drill any holes on the Tees and inserted an airline tubing? How loud is this?

thanks

Genius.....

Thanks...too bad your the only human on the planet who thinks that.

Honestly since building the first one for my friend I havent really mesed with it. It was pretty quiet with simply the holes drilled into the top of the tees, so I never played with it any further, but this is a small tank and I am not moving very much water through it.


Like I said above......if sound was an issue, adding anotherbackup bulkhead drain, and putting a ball valve(s) on the main overflow assembly to match the flow perfectly would surely fix it I think.

 

[xtm]

I like your concept.. maybe you should patent it I am strongly considering it for my eurobraced acrylic tank where a 'traditional' overflow box is not going to work.

My tank has eurobracing all around the rim and if I put the regular overflow box, then I cannot adjust the durso anymore since the eurobrace is blocking it. This is where the Flyyyguy Overflow comes in. I will stretch out a 1" diameter PVC across the 4-FT tank, a cut will be made on top, make some teeth and that will be my overflow! No bulky overflow boxes, no cutting acrylic, and it's less obstrusive and above all - adjustable! It's also easier to clean.

My biggest concern about the Flyyyguy Overflow is the sloshing effect, since this is very similar to a standpipe. I've used a standpipe before and even with airline tubing it's still difficult to achieve zero noise. It would slosh every hour or so..

I will test one out and let you guys know.

 

[flyyyguy]

You dont need the teeth......the slot takes care of it......

And the sloshing that concerns you........thats what the backup bulkhead/drain and ball valve on the main drain line takes care of. You control the drain flow perfectly with the valve so you have full dontrol of how the water falls, and the backup drain is for when the inevitablewhatever gets stuck somewhere and throws off the drain/flow sync.

As far as not being able to do a calfo style on your tank because your dursos wont fit........I dont think you want to do it calfo style anyway. You have an acrylic tank, make an external box. While my idea may be simple and easy way to install a pretty efficient overflow...........External overflow boxes asre the best way to do it IMO for many reasons.


Thats how mine is, its a coast to coast overflow for all intensive purposes, but the back wall does connect to the bracing for 6" in the middle, and the box is entirely outside the tank. Nothing in the tank but reef.

 

[xtm]

external overflow is not an option for me.. the back of my tank is leaning flat against the wall (no space) Everything is drilled on the bottom of the tank.

 

[jfactora]

ok, this is probably a dumb newbie question, but why not just have the 2 bulkheads drilled to the back, i.e., what purpose does the overflow box serve? is it absolutely necessary? my plan is to have two 1.5" bulkheads about halfway down the center of the tank (220g) for a closed loop and two 1" bulkheads about an inch from the top to connect to the sump. what am I missing on the oveflow box?

 

[xtm]

The overflow box will skim the surface scum on the water

 

[dtaranath]

and it will also keep the level of water in the tank close to the top, thus keeping the aesthetic of a full tank of water, and also preventing your sump from overflowing in the case of a power outage.

 

[yardboy]

And it will increase the surface area of flow into the cls so fish and anemones won't get sucked into your cls pump.

 

[sayn3ver]

can you make the space between the front of the overflow and the back of the tank narrower than 5inches? I want to do this but having only a 40b and only 18inch of tank width, 5 inches is a chunk. Anyway of making them narrower? I realize the bulkhead is long, but could the threads be trimmed?

 

[xtm]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10870785#post10870785 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sayn3ver
can you make the space between the front of the overflow and the back of the tank narrower than 5inches? I want to do this but having only a 40b and only 18inch of tank width, 5 inches is a chunk. Anyway of making them narrower? I realize the bulkhead is long, but could the threads be trimmed?

Are you talking about an overflow box outside the tank or inside the tank? If inside the tank, yes you can make your box narrower than 5". If you're having trouble fitting a full-size durso in there, you could always do THIS MOD.

 

[sayn3ver]

i want to do about a 2ft internal horizontal overflow in my 40B. How narrow can i go?