Can I use well water?

AmberL

AmberL

New member
I know that I should not supposed to use city water without RO, but what about using well water? I live in a rural area and my water comes from a deep well, 500 feet in the ground. There are no added chemicals to be detrimental to the fish. Any experience with well water? Do I still need to use an RO?

Thanks.
 
absolutely not to well water.

Well water is oftentimes higher TDS than most city water, and you have no idea what the heavy metals and other sediments, etc. that could be in the water.

starting a tank with anything other than RO is putting you at a severe handicap to start. If you don't have the money for an RO, save up for one or get jugs of distilled water from your grocery store until you can get one.
 
So, I've heard terrible things about distilled water, but have seen posts over the last couple of days recommending it. When did this change?

Your going to need a tds meter anyway (I don't like the ones integrated into the units because you can't test anything that isn't running through the unit) Checking your current levels will tell you if you need a "powerhouse" system, or just a simple one. (number of filter containers basically) Mine is low out of the tap, so I have a used kent maxxima from craigslist.. Of course, I didn't really save any money this way, because I immediately replaced the filters and membrane.. but I did keep a hunk of plastic out of a garbage heap.
 
+1 I have well water, everything checked out good, until the neighbor fertalized over my well area, and my nitrates skyrocked. Definitely use an ro/di filter, well water parameters can change daily.
 
Distilled water is the most filtered water you can buy at your grocery store, with no chemicals added. I used it for a while. It wasn't optimal, but it worked until I got a RO setup.
 
I have a 650ft well with very clean water. My mother runs a lab with plasma test equipment and found out the water actually had very acceptable levels of most everything. The problem though, is that it has a large TDS reading of about 420ppm. This is mainly sediment. Also, if your house has copper pipes etc... you run the risk of elevated heavy metals.

Either way for a proper reef tank you will want to get an RODI setup. If you're like me and have less than 65psi house pressure(mine is 35-40), you will need to get a booster pump. I would recommend a 75gpd(most efficient) and an aquatek 8800 booster pump. I got my setup at bulk reef supply. I would suggest getting a few extra sediment filters in the 1 micron size, stock is 5 micron. I run through a sediment filter every 2 months or so. You may also want to pick up an extra bag of DI resin, I go through a bag every 3-4 months.
 
+1 on the RO/DI if you can buy one, I just purchased one from BRS and it should be here today, they had a special running on it, has TDS meter and pressure meter included.
 
You may as well start making purchases from BRS because its going to happen anyway lol. Seems like almost everyone eventually starts buying their stuff, and IMHO, for good reason.
 
You get the reward points too. After 3 orders in a year and 5 meaningful reviews you can request to upgrade your account to preferred. You get an average of 5-10% off most things.
 
We got our RO/DI with complete set up (TDS meter, hook up for under the sink, bulkhead for garbage can, Presure gague and auto shut off) from Buckeye Field Supply. The unit is wonderful. It does 75 GPD and all of it was $200. The guy who runs it has amazing customer service and he was available at 9PM to help us set it up over the phone!
 
My well water tested at 240tds and nitrates at 20. Would the 5 stage 75gpd system at brs be enough to get to 0tds?

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
I this just for Fish ? if so RO is all you need. Buy a 75gpd unit even if its over kill.

I have a well and my tds out of the tap is 363, after RO they are at 11, after DI they are at zero. My PH out of tap is 7.98 , out of RO is 7.78 which is normal for it to drop off. PH cannot be checked out of the DI canister with any confidence.

If you are going to use DI and once you get started you find that your DI canster is not lasting long ( you should get about 500 gals per canister at 11ppm out of the RO ) you probably like most well's have CO2. CO2 eats DI like Steak ! If this turns out to be the case you will save a lot of money if you have two containers for making your water one for making the RO and once you have made your RO run and airstone in it for NO more then 8 hours then run it thru your DI canister. If you run the air stone more then 8 hours it will drive the PH level up to 9.5 or 10 and eat your DI anyway.

You can call JIM at the Filter Guys and he will talk to you for hours. These guys are great and really take the time with you.

http://www.thefilterguys.biz/ro_di_systems.htm
 
just bought a RO/DI from filtersdirect and got an inline tds meter for a little under 200. read from others that ordered and said they were also happy with their purchase.
 
RO is a must. If buying isn't an option, many places that sell/rent water softeners also rent RO units for only a few dollars per month.
 
I think what is not being mentioned yet is the high level of Sulfur that is often found in well water (beyond the other points made).

Certain bacteria (usually of the unwanted ilk) thrives on it. I learned this the hard way a long time ago.

The Ro/Di unit is perhaps the most important part of your setup :)
 
I also have a well. I just got a 75gpd 5 stage system from brs, I am seeing 45psi right before the water enters the first stage of the filter. Is this going to shorten the life of my membrane our just give me less water?

Sent from my PC36100 using Tapatalk
 
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