Zacktosterone
Active member
Thank you, Tweaked, I did a lot. I'm wondering why he put them side by side and not front to back. Thoughts? I'm also trying to find the reason why he got a third one
can radion do it by itself.
- Thread starter Zacktosterone
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Tweaked
FUP&A Member
He got the third as the tank kept growing of course. In the beginning he had the two and used that bar setup to keep them equally spread. I'm assuming that when he obtained the third, the easiest placement was to just add it right in the middle. You'll also notice that his light demanding coral is back, and his chalices are typically to the front. This is a good setup for LPS on the front lower part of the tank, and the SPS at the back.
Zacktosterone
Active member
I'm trying to decide if I want to spend another 850 dollars on a pro (being in Canada) or if I should just hold off. Because my 120 is going to be peninsula style the overflow is going to eat up 5" of usable space, the glass is also 3/4" thick. The tank measures 48x25.5x24... This will equal an inner foot print of 41.5"x24" how any radions would be good for this and which directions?
Zacktosterone
Active member
Bump. Trying to decide right now on another radion or 4 t5's
Wazzel
New member
I am planning on using 4 AI hydra52's on my 120. I have 2 already and secured 2 more gently used units. If it were me I would get another radion, a used one if I could find one in good shape. My 120 is trim less and I am not going to put a hood so that is playing a part in my decision making.
Zacktosterone
Active member
With what kind of coral
reefmutt
Active member
I have seen enough amazing Radion lit tanks to comfortably say that they can do the job. I have also spent enough hours standing over t5/mh or t5 alone and Radion alone lit tanks to feel that although the radions will make your corals totally happy and colorful, the added full spectrum of t5 will deliver more subtle hues of color in your sps..
On your tank, with the over flow, and running two radions perpendicular, each Radion will be hitting a 25 by 22 inch area. That's pretty good. And because it's a peninsula, the corals will be in the centre of the tank so practically speaking the radions will only be lighting an area of about 20 by 44 inches... Even better..
Personally, for the sake of over doing it and ultimate coverage, I'd run 3 radions and 4 t5 but since that's admittedly a bit crazy, my next action would be the 2 radions and 4t5. Gives you the best color rendition and great coverage.
Down the road you could always add another Radion.. When you really loose your sps mind.
On your tank, with the over flow, and running two radions perpendicular, each Radion will be hitting a 25 by 22 inch area. That's pretty good. And because it's a peninsula, the corals will be in the centre of the tank so practically speaking the radions will only be lighting an area of about 20 by 44 inches... Even better..
Personally, for the sake of over doing it and ultimate coverage, I'd run 3 radions and 4 t5 but since that's admittedly a bit crazy, my next action would be the 2 radions and 4t5. Gives you the best color rendition and great coverage.
Down the road you could always add another Radion.. When you really loose your sps mind.
Zacktosterone
Active member
You mean parallel to the short glass panel.
The problems in having right now is that the bottoms of my sps are brown where they are shaded. Im wondering what t5s I should add. Secondly, I've been relentlessly looking at floating canopies and I can't find one that I like
reefmutt
Active member
No.. Your rock work will run parrellel to the long panes, I assume. Within the tank width of 25 inches, the rockwork will be narrower. So running the radions parallel to the long panes, each light will be lighting more length, each, than width..
With the over flow, you said you have about 42 of 48 total length?
With rockwork set back from front and back glass, you've got about 20 inches from front to back- running along the 42 inch length of tank.
So, the lights would be every so slightly more efficient running parrellel to and over the rock work, so, parallel to the front and back or long ends of the glass...
Phew.. I hope that made sense..
I would probably run a pure actinic 03 and an actinic + (blue +) on either side of the radions..
I think some browning under acros is pretty normal. No matter what you do, it will be more dim on the underside of the corals...
With the over flow, you said you have about 42 of 48 total length?
With rockwork set back from front and back glass, you've got about 20 inches from front to back- running along the 42 inch length of tank.
So, the lights would be every so slightly more efficient running parrellel to and over the rock work, so, parallel to the front and back or long ends of the glass...
Phew.. I hope that made sense..
I would probably run a pure actinic 03 and an actinic + (blue +) on either side of the radions..
I think some browning under acros is pretty normal. No matter what you do, it will be more dim on the underside of the corals...
Zacktosterone
Active member
The overall inner dimensions of useable space including overflow and glass thickness is 41.5" L x 24" W x 24" H
So you"re suggesting that I run the radions parallel to the long panel so all 4 light pucks are directly above the rock structure placed in the middle running length wise.
You're also suggesting a blue plus and a true actinic on either side.
I'm also going to be placing a white acrylic sheet on the bottom so that the light is reflected on the bottom and hopefully hitting the bottoms of the coral.
reefmutt
Active member
Yes to all above.
Even though you have 24 inside inches to aquascape, your rockwork won't touch the glass, it'll probably be a couple of inches away, so you're only trying to light about 20 inches width.. Front to back..
Putting white board underneath is a good idea but eventually, corraline algea will cover the bottom glass and reduce the reflectivity ..
Believe it or not, nice white clean sand may provide more long term reflectivity. Imo..
Even though you have 24 inside inches to aquascape, your rockwork won't touch the glass, it'll probably be a couple of inches away, so you're only trying to light about 20 inches width.. Front to back..
Putting white board underneath is a good idea but eventually, corraline algea will cover the bottom glass and reduce the reflectivity ..
Believe it or not, nice white clean sand may provide more long term reflectivity. Imo..
Zacktosterone
Active member
I'm really debating on the sand. I'm not really sure I want it. Sand I find is like a litter pan. And I want a ton of flow as well
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reefmutt
Active member
I'd be torn as well.. I like the look of both sand and a pristine glass bottom with corraline algea..
I ended up with both in my tank.. My pumps blew the sand off the front 5 inches of my tank..
It's cool to be able to glue various lps to the bottom of the tank and let them encrust on the glass.. Here..
Feel free to disregard the cyano!
I ended up with both in my tank.. My pumps blew the sand off the front 5 inches of my tank..
It's cool to be able to glue various lps to the bottom of the tank and let them encrust on the glass.. Here..
Feel free to disregard the cyano!
Zacktosterone
Active member
I'd be torn as well.. I like the look of both sand and a pristine glass bottom with corraline algea..
I ended up with both in my tank.. My pumps blew the sand off the front 5 inches of my tank..
It's cool to be able to glue various lps to the bottom of the tank and let them encrust on the glass.. Here..
Feel free to disregard the cyano!
I hate cyano. What are you running for lights? I don't remember if you mentioned it
