Can someone help me with sump design?

Realest20

New member
Would someone be willing to help me with design ideas for my first sump build? I am building a 120 gallon display with internal overflow box with a 40 gallon sump tank (36"x15"x18" tall).
I am going with a herbie over flow, and reef octopus 160 classic int. I would like a refugium too. I have done a couple drawings and am looking for input about inlet /filter sock design. The drawings I have done are skimmer in first chamber, return in second. Refugium in third supplied by return manifold. However I have read that a herbie syphon can be difficult to dial in with return manifold. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
 
why not just do skimmer > fuge > return pump?

I agree, either way your fuge will be getting the same water if it flows through it from the skimmer section or from the return pump. The only reason i would put the return in the middle is if i had one of the drains going to the fuge so it gets raw water and not water that has been skimmed
 
Yup, with 2 drains it's a decent design. Or maybe if you had a really fast-moving sump? Like some people run 15x the dt volume through their sump each hour, so maybe then you'd want to slow it down or something. But idk really why they do that in the first place, seems like diminishing return after 5x dt volume
 
I <3 my filtersocks, but I don't have a skimmer so they are working double duty.
I can't think of a downside to a bubble trap, some folks get away without them but why risk having to go back and make it right?
 
Bubble traps i am all for but i rarely use filter socks

Big time...BB traps are a must... Filter socks are a risk in my opinon, they are added maintenance and can be a nitrate factory. Use your fuge, that's the point of it anyway, added filtration, i have rubble, sand and some CUC dudes in mine with no socks, sponges or restrictions... No probs.
 
I built my sump for my previous system but this time bought an TriggerSys Emerald 39. While there are a couple little things I would do differently, but it is far better than I could build. It has a refugium area, filter sock holders and overflows go into covered area to reduce salt creep. You might want to check them out unless you are set on building your own. Acrylic costs mean the cost is not much higher for a production sump. If nothing else, you can check out their pics and get some ideas on design.
 
Mine is 3 chambers (both, actually, are) but I use the "fuge" chamber as a bubble trap and detritus settling area. Makes it really easy to suck the junk up that makes it past the skimmer.

I also have a detached mini display fuge that acts as a detritus trap when I don't want it to :p
 
I use a 33long. Fuge-return-skimmer. My Fuge it a grow out area so I needed to b able to control the flow. Macro algae is in the return section
 
I set up mine with the skimmer on the right hand side with bubble traps. The return/pump section is in the middle. The fuge is on the left. It is fed by the discharge from the GAC and GFO reactors, which are supplied from a "T" with valves on the main return. With the fuge on the side I can get lighting for the cheato from the sides and above.
 
+1 on bubble trap. I personally only put the filter sock on a day or two before doing a bi-weekly water change. I stir up the stand and use a turkey baster to blow detritus in the sump into the water column. The filter sock looks super dirty in just 24 hours. That way I don't have to be changing the sock every 2-3 days.
 
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Save yourself time, money and headache and get the new RS-300 by Eshopps. I was going to build a sump with almost identical specs as yours. Bought this brand new for $325 and it works great. Very quiet. I have a 120 gallon DT and this is perfect. http://www.eshopps.com/products/filters/reefsumps/rs300/

i actually looked at that when I was building mine, but since I was planning a bean animal drain system, I wasn't sure if I could use that sump with the beananimal.
 
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