Can someone recommend a GFCI?
- Thread starter Kinetic
- Start date
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=6866564#post6866564 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Mr. Ugly
I used a box like this, plus a GFCI outlet cover plate.
I used the same plastic type except mine had plastic knock-outs. You can go even further and add silicon to any openings to ensure a water tight seal.
Looks like Mr. Ugly and I have the same type of electrical setup.:thumbsup:
I feel so much safer knowing that everything is on a GFCI.
There are alot of options if a Graybar is nearby, but since we all typically just run down to Home Depot, most of us will end up with the same electrical hardware 
One thing to re-iterate about GFCIs is to split up your tank load across multiple GFCI circuits and if you can manage it, just put the GFCI outlet in the wall, replacing the current outlet. That is just more compact and eactually cheaper, since you are not buying the SOJ cord, cord grip connectors, job box, cover plates, etc. You are still buying the same GFCI outlet. I wouldn't recommend installing a GFCI circuit breaker unless it is a single use circuit, or unless you don't mind someone plugging in a stereo or hair drier and shutting off power to your tank. 
I do agree with Mr. Ugly that we all tend to think alike in this hobby as most of us in this area also make a living through computers. I spent 11 years as a construction electrician licensed in Florida, Georgia and Alaska before moving full time into computers almost a decade ago, so I guess I have the mindset of both worlds when it comes to electrical work
One thing to re-iterate about GFCIs is to split up your tank load across multiple GFCI circuits and if you can manage it, just put the GFCI outlet in the wall, replacing the current outlet. That is just more compact and eactually cheaper, since you are not buying the SOJ cord, cord grip connectors, job box, cover plates, etc. You are still buying the same GFCI outlet
. I wouldn't recommend installing a GFCI circuit breaker unless it is a single use circuit, or unless you don't mind someone plugging in a stereo or hair drier and shutting off power to your tank. I do agree with Mr. Ugly that we all tend to think alike in this hobby as most of us in this area also make a living through computers. I spent 11 years as a construction electrician licensed in Florida, Georgia and Alaska before moving full time into computers almost a decade ago, so I guess I have the mindset of both worlds when it comes to electrical work
Skorpinok
Active member
So.......
Having two GFCI would be the ideal environment. But, I've got only one electrial outlet by my 65g. How would I install two GFCI? THis is comming from a guy who knows nothing about running electical cabling. Let talk about network cabling - we can talk.
Could some explaing about this more in details.
Did anybody get a chance to see this THREAD?
This guy pretty much lost everthing when his GFCI trip'ed and everthing was plugged into 1 GFCI. I know how he feels - been there.
So, the magic number of GFCI is two.
Mr. Ugly
New member
Well, in your case... if the existing circuit provides adequate power, you could plug GFCI pigtails into each of the receptacle outlets to avoid having to redo house wiring.
Guess that would be like a star configuration if you're talking network
You'd be running GFCI's in parallel on the same circuit. That works. Don't run multiple GFCI's in series.
Guess that would be like a star configuration if you're talking network
You'd be running GFCI's in parallel on the same circuit. That works. Don't run multiple GFCI's in series.
Mr Ugly,
It was just a shot in the dark on the hair dier.. but a common enough event to have one pop a GFCI, although those metrics are skewed since most GFCIs are installed in bathrooms (they must at least be there, by law), and a bathroom is where a hair drier is typically used, and is usually the largest appliance in use in the bathroom as well
I would never put our whole tank on 1 GFCI and in fact I have the lighting and pumps on two totally separate, dedicated, circuits. Too many stories about ballasts popping GFCIs and breakers.. alot less than pumps shorting out (unless you are talking about RIOs, but that is another rant altogether).
To-Arbitrate
As for how to run 2 GFCIs off of a single outlet, with no electrical knowledge needed, He is right... using pigtails off of that one outlet would work fine. But also as he stated, if you plug them in series they have a tendency to "trip" each other.
If we are talking networking, think 10-base T versus 10-base 2, or ethernet versus token-ring, and your one outlet is the switch/hub and the GFCIs are devices that need to be connected to it
It was just a shot in the dark on the hair dier.. but a common enough event to have one pop a GFCI, although those metrics are skewed since most GFCIs are installed in bathrooms (they must at least be there, by law), and a bathroom is where a hair drier is typically used, and is usually the largest appliance in use in the bathroom as well
I would never put our whole tank on 1 GFCI and in fact I have the lighting and pumps on two totally separate, dedicated, circuits. Too many stories about ballasts popping GFCIs and breakers.. alot less than pumps shorting out (unless you are talking about RIOs, but that is another rant altogether
).To-Arbitrate
As for how to run 2 GFCIs off of a single outlet, with no electrical knowledge needed, He is right... using pigtails off of that one outlet would work fine. But also as he stated, if you plug them in series they have a tendency to "trip" each other
.If we are talking networking, think 10-base T versus 10-base 2, or ethernet versus token-ring
, and your one outlet is the switch/hub and the GFCIs are devices that need to be connected to it
Skorpinok
Active member
I guess this weekend is a good time to head down to HD / Lowes / OSH (they're all close to where I live in SSF) and grab a "Electrical wiring for Dummies" book. :lol:
Joking aside, So, if the first GFCI trips will the second one trip as well or does it depend on the type of GFCI?
Joking aside, So, if the first GFCI trips will the second one trip as well or does it depend on the type of GFCI?
Kinetic
Active member
so would the most ideal GFCI setup be one electrical apliance per GFCI?
I would want to run my sump return on a separate GFCI from everything else, and my heaters on different ones as well.
Perhaps all the pumps to my reactors, skimmer, RDSB, etc on one since they could all trip and it wouldn't be the end of the world.
And lighting on another.
The only downssides is, cost (though it's well worth it to have a dependable system so this isn't a showstopper), controllers may be confused.
So bringing up controllers, I have an Aquacontroller JR. with a DC8. Are they all in series? That would be difficult...
I would want to run my sump return on a separate GFCI from everything else, and my heaters on different ones as well.
Perhaps all the pumps to my reactors, skimmer, RDSB, etc on one since they could all trip and it wouldn't be the end of the world.
And lighting on another.
The only downssides is, cost (though it's well worth it to have a dependable system so this isn't a showstopper), controllers may be confused.
So bringing up controllers, I have an Aquacontroller JR. with a DC8. Are they all in series? That would be difficult...
rocko123,
Is that an in-wall or pigtail GFCI ? The way it was rated I am assuming an in-wall type, that would replace an existing receptacle. The feed through is how much downstream current can be sustained (granted that your wiring can support it, that is). Almost all GCFI outlets have a feedthrough rating and can provide GFCI functionality to a normal outlet that is wired downstream from it. The current draw capacity on those outlets is what the feed through rating is for. For example, all bathroom outlets must be GFCI protected. But if you check your bathrooms you will most likely find 1 that has a GFCI outlet and the rest all look "normal", that is because they are. They are all fed downstream from that first bathroom with the GFCI outlet. By feed and downstream I mean that they are all in series, with the GFCI one being first, and all electricity flowing through it from the breaker panel.
Koden,
If you went with pigtails, you could hook one to each outlet on the DC8.. ok, so that is not really a realistic, scalable, solution . and plugging the DC8 into a GFCI puts your lights and pumps on the same circuit (which aparently they are already then ?). The Jr will control up to 12 devices, in as many DCs as you want. You can have your DC8 and 2 more DC4 connected to the AC JR and just address 4 outlets from each DC, and have each one plugged into a separate GFCI and circuit... again not the cheapest solution, but even if/when you move to an AC3/Pro, you will still need the extra DCs to achieve your circuit separation.
HTH
Is that an in-wall or pigtail GFCI ? The way it was rated I am assuming an in-wall type, that would replace an existing receptacle. The feed through is how much downstream current can be sustained (granted that your wiring can support it, that is). Almost all GCFI outlets have a feedthrough rating and can provide GFCI functionality to a normal outlet that is wired downstream from it. The current draw capacity on those outlets is what the feed through rating is for. For example, all bathroom outlets must be GFCI protected. But if you check your bathrooms you will most likely find 1 that has a GFCI outlet and the rest all look "normal", that is because they are. They are all fed downstream from that first bathroom with the GFCI outlet. By feed and downstream I mean that they are all in series, with the GFCI one being first, and all electricity flowing through it from the breaker panel.
Koden,
If you went with pigtails, you could hook one to each outlet on the DC8
.. ok, so that is not really a realistic, scalable, solution . and plugging the DC8 into a GFCI puts your lights and pumps on the same circuit (which aparently they are already then ?). The Jr will control up to 12 devices, in as many DCs as you want. You can have your DC8 and 2 more DC4 connected to the AC JR and just address 4 outlets from each DC, and have each one plugged into a separate GFCI and circuit... again not the cheapest solution, but even if/when you move to an AC3/Pro, you will still need the extra DCs to achieve your circuit separation.HTH
Kinetic
Active member
what is a pigtail? What equipment will I need?
I still don't know how I'm going to do this with a GFCI. I guess I should get one Direct Connect for each GFCI? That's costly. I guess I'll get another DC4 and do the following:
GFCI 1:
Aquacontroller DC4
- Display Sump Return Pump
- Prop Sump Return Pump
- Sump Heaters
GFCI 2:
Aquacontroller DC8
- Skimmer
- RDSB
- Phosphate Reactor
- Calcium Reactor
- Prop Seio Powerheads
- Display Closed Loop System
- Display Lighting
- Prop Lighting
Or maybe I should pickup another DC4 and split up lighting and closed loop.
The second GFCI holds all the equipment that could trip and not do any damage. Lights will be off, and so would closed loop, but there would still be sump returns etc. It would be ok for a day tripped like that. Proplem is if the first GFCI trips, I'm screwed. If sump pumps ever trip, no matter if the heaters etc. are on, it won't matter. Closed loop and lighting will still be on, however, providing some flow. No heat though. Should I stick one of those stealth visitherm fully submersible heaters in the display and prop tanks connected to the DC8?
Thanks!
I still don't know how I'm going to do this with a GFCI. I guess I should get one Direct Connect for each GFCI? That's costly. I guess I'll get another DC4 and do the following:
GFCI 1:
Aquacontroller DC4
- Display Sump Return Pump
- Prop Sump Return Pump
- Sump Heaters
GFCI 2:
Aquacontroller DC8
- Skimmer
- RDSB
- Phosphate Reactor
- Calcium Reactor
- Prop Seio Powerheads
- Display Closed Loop System
- Display Lighting
- Prop Lighting
Or maybe I should pickup another DC4 and split up lighting and closed loop.
The second GFCI holds all the equipment that could trip and not do any damage. Lights will be off, and so would closed loop, but there would still be sump returns etc. It would be ok for a day tripped like that. Proplem is if the first GFCI trips, I'm screwed. If sump pumps ever trip, no matter if the heaters etc. are on, it won't matter. Closed loop and lighting will still be on, however, providing some flow. No heat though. Should I stick one of those stealth visitherm fully submersible heaters in the display and prop tanks connected to the DC8?
Thanks!
Hi all,
Here's something interesting I found while surfing...
http://www.budgetlighting.com/store...69.11072*1_3vN8&keywords=all-tower-gfci&xm=on
and this...
http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=558&parent=554
Cheers!
Here's something interesting I found while surfing...
http://www.budgetlighting.com/store...69.11072*1_3vN8&keywords=all-tower-gfci&xm=on
and this...
http://www.hanford.gov/rl/?page=558&parent=554
Cheers!
