Can you guys help some????

[GPhiAce]

So since there are sooooo many amazing knowledgable aquarists in our club, I thought I would ask this quesstion here first.

I have had an issue for the past 2 weeks or so. on nov 9th, I changed from 20k MH to 10K plus actinics. On Dec 3rd I switched to 14K plus actinics because of the issues with my corals. I changed because I wanted better growth and have read that this is a good combination.
Now the problems with the corals. I have lost my ORA chips (nice mini colony), some red zoas (I got from Dave), green digi and orange digi. Plus my purple haze paly, ponape birdsnest, pink stlyo and pink pocillopora aren't doing well.
My question is would lights have this dramatic of an effect??????? I thought that lights would change the growth and coloration.

Forgot to note parameters. Temp- 78.6-79.2 (ACjr), pH8.3, Ca 440, Alk 9, SG 1.025, Nitrate <10, Phosphate 0, ammonia 0.

On a good note, I noticed a new polyp (maybe 2) on my Green stardust PEs or milky way PEs not sure which one to call them. That's now ...... 4 polyps total in about 12 months.

 

[EvilMel]

Did you go from old bulbs straight to new bulbs?

Did you decrease the time that the lights are on per day for a little while when using the new bulbs? Or put netting or some sort of shield over the tank so they don't feel the full effects of the new bulbs right away?

Do the corals look like they are bleaching?

I'm not sure if the old-to-new bulbs would have that dramatic of an effect, or even if that's the result, but it's something I hear about a long time ago...to be careful when switching from old bulbs to new ones or from less intensity to more intensity.

I believe that the 20K bulbs are supposed to be less intense than the 10K bulbs, in some sense, aren't they? People say that the 10K bulbs will grow corals faster, but the 20Ks bring out the colors more.

Anyways...just some considerations.

 

[GPhiAce]

I decreased the photoperiod by 1 hour-- sorry, I left that part out originally. I didn't think it was necessary since I was going from 20k to 10k originally.

I thought that going from low to high K ratings would cause bleaching and adverse effects. My question is that why only a few corals?? I have several others. ahh-- genetic/biologic differences-- I hated that answer in class, I hope that is not it.

Mel, you are the greatest, thanks for your response

 

[GPhiAce]

sorry, forgot to write that it doesn't look like the pictures of bleaching that I have seen from other hobbyist. So I don't think that it's bleaching

 

[fishdoc11]

It's typically going from a higher K to lower that can cause problems but either way can because you are changing the spectrum ie. some corals might be used to a spike in the 450nm range (20K) while others are used to a spike in the 420nm range (10K).
It doesn't sound like your lights to me either though. When we are done tommorrow I'll put some more thought into it. These things are usually pretty simple in cause but hard (and sometimes frustrating/seemingly impossible ) to pinpoint.
Hopefully some others will chime in as well.

 

[ct_vol]

What happened to the corals that made you lose them??? Did they RTN or did you just lose PE and have them fade away??? What kind of testkits are you using??? Have any livestock that could be picking at them???

Chris is right about people usually having a problem going from High to low... The exception is going from a 10k-14k to a 20K Radium... The Radiums are the only 20k I know of that has a rediculously high PAR value...

 

[GPhiAce]

That works-- thanks.
it looks like RTN, but is going very slow that is for the Chips. the few other SPS that are looking to be affected just have decreased polyp extension. The zoas just don't open all the way. And the PEs-- nothing, completely off the subject. Those just grow slow and made my day when I saw the new polyp.

Thanks guys. It is really frustrating. Chris, you are my idol. You study hard for every test. behavior schmavior are my thoughts. the answer is NILIF, DS/CC and behavior modification for everything.

 

[fishdoc11]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13917255#post13917255 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by GPhiAce
the answer is NILIF, DS/CC and behavior modification for everything.

:lmao:


How are you supplimenting alk and Ca++ Paul? STN/recession is usually from alk problems, level or stability, but can be from any long term stress.

 

[GPhiAce]

DT's 2 part, equal parts in the top off. I measure using API. There really aren't flucutations in the Ca and Alk, pH doesn't vary much. Started testing once weekly then no changes were noted, and am now testing biweekly. I keep a log using excel.

 

[fishdoc11]

Are you mixing both parts (alk and Ca++) in your topup water?

 

[GPhiAce]

Both are added to the topoff and the top off is refilled every 3 days. I read that STN could be from decreased flow, so I added the Chips that is barely hanging on in a higher flow area. Any others that were affected, I am just going to say that it involves the lights, so I put them lower and decreased the photoperiod. I also tested the water (same params) and am making a water change for tomorrow.