Canopy and Lighting Question

I think doing it either way would look very unbalanced.

I just finished nearly the same setup on my 40 breeder (it's 36x18 too, just shallower). Mine is like #1 but lose the 24" and put the halide in between the two, facing the way you have it there.

Here's what I'd think about doing:
a) Do it like mine - No 24"ers, put the halide between the 36"ers
or
b) Use 4 36" T5's, put the halide in the middle but put it above the T5's a couple inches. That's what I did with mine - I have room for 4 but use 2 in my 18" pendant/hood without much light lost bouncing off the back of the T5 reflectors.

I think option B makes the least detrimental sacrifices. Also, I don't know if you'll have enough blue otherwise (unless you get bluer than a 10k).
Mine is a 150w 10k halide, a Giessman 22k "actinic plus" 39w 36" T5 and a UVL "super actinic". I wouldn't want any less blue in my tank in my setup.

Great job on the hood! I ended up making it out of wood and it's barely light enough to use Sunlift hangers.
 
Hi alizarin,
Here's a new drawing with the two 36 inch T5's between the MH. What I'm concerned with is the center bar of the tank. Doesn't it block some of the light getting to the tank? Also I was wondering how tall you made your canopy - is there any requirements for MH as far as distance from the water? Do you have any photos of your system? I'm really interested in the Sunlift hangers. I'd be very interested in the triad ballast.

132223MHLightbarcenter.jpg
 
Well I just placed my order for my lights. 1- 250W 10000K HQI Ushio and 2-39W T5's both are IceCap ballasts. For the T5's I choose 1-UVL Super Actinic; 1-ATI Blue Plus. We'll see how these look together. Now I guess I need to get busy with the designing of the canopy!
 
I don't have decent photos yet and I haven't hung it on the sunlifts ... it's perched on my tank and I'm avoiding it until the spray paint smell doesn't make me sick anymore. BUT... I posted a 3D model of it in my gallery:

87941Hood-2.gif


Since I'm still not sure how high I want to hang it and how much difference in height I want the halide and T5's to have, I made the hood 12" tall. It could easily fit in 6 inches though. I kind of like it being taller than needed - I think the light won't shine in your eyes when suspended this way. I'm leaving the top open so I can have some spill-over ceiling shimmer ;-)

My tank doesn't have the center bar but I tried putting a piece of wood in there just now and I could see a bit of a shadow but it wasn't a big deal. My halide is 8" above the water, there'll be less of a shadow the higher you go. I'm sure it will be less annoying than putting the light to the side. I wonder if you could replace the bar with a piece of glass or acrylic (whichever your tank is).

About halide height - there's two reasons you'd care about the height -
1) The light spreads out more the higher it is and that's an issue in situations like ours where we want it to cover 36" instead of the usual 24" per light.
2) Heat. I only have a 150w so nothing I do causes heat issues but you might if you kept it close to the surface or enclosed.
I like how mine looks at 8".

I'm sure there's better ways of constructing it (like aluminum!) but what I did was make a frame with 1x2" boards and attached birch paneling. With the lights (including the T5 ballast) it came out to 19lb. One pair of Sunlifts is rated at 22lb I think.

If you're in South Tampa feel free to come have a look =)
 
yeah im wondering about the center brace to.why cant you cut the brace,leaving 2-3" on each side.then get some 3/8" acrylic that spans the brace and bolt them together.or even better drain it drill it cut the brace out and silicone in a glass one :D just a thought
 
This is what I've been working on:

13222365G_Canopy_DRAFT.jpg


I thought I could cut the center out for the MH and either frame it in or put some type of mess around it.

alizarin - I love your drawing, I could go 8 inches but 12 is a little high for me. My living room isn't that large and I think it would look a little strange. But you never know until you try - so I might cut some wood and just see.
 
OK - now I can't sleep so I put some ideas on paper. Actually I've been thinking about different designs for a long time - wanting to make them a little different. Here's what I've come up with so far:

13222365G_CanopyDesigns.jpg
 
yeah i got it.i need to do some major changes to make it work right.the lip the tank sits on is very small,like 3/4",not acceptable to me.so im getting 2x4's and framing out the whole inside.the hood im not sure if i can use but i havent really looked at it much.if i were you id rule out design 3.it really isnt practical to make a curved top like that.you would need some sort of form to wrap to and some way to heat a large piece of material.if i use the hood i will do something like your number 1 design.
 
Well it will at least give you a basic frame to work with. I did put the 2x3's in my stand, just feel more confortable now. I think I ended up adding 4, 3 in the back and one in the front. I repainted it and put the knobs on so it's starting to look like a real aquarium stand. I should get my lights next week - around tuesday or wednesday (It was shipped today).
 
Alizarin - Thank you very much for all the information you have provided. I was afraid that putting the MH on one side would make it look unbalanced. Just needed someone to tell me. I looked up the Sunlift Hangers that you are using â€"œ what a great idea. I tried hanging my first canopy (75G) and was going to use a pulley system; it ended up being too heavy. I could have rebuilt it to make it lighter, but it was my first reef tank and I just have it sitting on the tank with hinges on the back to open it.

Different Designs â€"œ I really like #1 but the more I look at it online the more I like #2. I think with the two levels it would give the illusion of it not being as high as it is. Cutting the wood to match at the angle needed would be the hard part for me. I really like your idea of having the top open. Like you said â€"œ helps keep it cooler and gives lighting effects. I wanted to put some art work on the top of mine that’s the reason for keeping it lower and it not being open. What I need to do is look for something that is sturdy but allows heat to escape â€"œ like a hard plastic. Hoh, I just thought about doing the whole canopy in acrylic. It comes in all different colors â€"œ I’ll have to think about that one!
 
metal halide temperatures and uv production will dry out the plastic brace until it eventually breaks. there are threads on here showing the effects after it happened. look for euro bracing an all glass aquarium or something like that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=8899237#post8899237 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by checkinhawk
yeah im wondering about the center brace to.why cant you cut the brace,leaving 2-3" on each side.then get some 3/8" acrylic that spans the brace and bolt them together.or even better drain it drill it cut the brace out and silicone in a glass one :D just a thought

Checkinhawk - I'm gong to do it. Not the drilling (I'd love to - but that's another story) but the moving of the brace. I can leave the center brace on for now, attach two braces (so the MH is clear of the braces) and wait for it to cure. I have some extra 1/4 inch acrylic - might just work.
 
if you brace it stay away from acrylic,use glass like 3/8" thick.i dont know how well the acrylic and glass bond with silicone.i would try to use glass.
 
I have lots of glass (remember the 29g tank - lol) and a very big saw to cut it (I do lots of glass art). I also have a wet belt sander to smooth out the sides - do you think using silicone alone will do the trick?
 
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