Canopy and Lighting Question
- Thread starter ReefArtist
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ReefArtist
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Yea, I have GE#1 and the stuff called Aquarium silicone. I'd think either would work. Not sure if I should worry about it or not, seems like if it's low you do get a little shadow. With my design it will be about 7 inches from the water max., so really hard to say.
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
Hi robthorn, Thank you for the information I'm doing some net searches now just to get a feel for the mod. I can make this mod later if it bothers me which it will if I see a shadow. As long as I'm careful and take my time I really don't think it would be hard to remove the center brace and add two on either side of the MH. We'll see by the end of the weekend.
Also, I'm going over the Chesters and picking up the power cord - thanks for the information.
Also, I'm going over the Chesters and picking up the power cord - thanks for the information.
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
alizarin, did you get your canopy hung? What's the name of the 3D software you used to produce the drawings above - if you don't mine me asking? Thanks for your help.
ReefArtist
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Now this is JMO - but. Glass tanks are assembled with silicone but they also have these plastic bans all around the top and bottom and then a center brace. Do you really think the tank would hold together without any support? I really don't think the silicone holds that well - but that's just me 
. Look at the 10g, they even need support because the silicone can't hold the glass together. I know the glass is thin (US makers) but even 1/2 glass with silicone only would give way - if not today then tomorrow. Acrylic is a different story - if it's thick enough it will not give, but then you're not using silicone, and most of them have top support .
. Look at the 10g, they even need support because the silicone can't hold the glass together. I know the glass is thin (US makers) but even 1/2 glass with silicone only would give way - if not today then tomorrow. Acrylic is a different story - if it's thick enough it will not give, but then you're not using silicone, and most of them have top support .
ReefArtist
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So I can just completely take the brace around the tank off and put 2 pieces of glass between the MH to keep the sides from bowing, using only silicone and it will hold everything together? Why don't the builds save a bundle of money and just put a support in the center (glass and silicone). I believe because in the long run they would have lots of failures and would be going back to the braces that have always worked and have always been used. I think everyone thinks the band around the top and bottom are ugly and that's the reason everyone tries to hide them. Look at the stands - most have a lip that covers the brace, the top the canopy most of the time covers the brace. Reason because they are ugly.
ReefArtist
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Hey CheckinHawk, If you end up having to put a hole through your canopy for the MH, I have a few designs to make it look nice. I'm going to create a cityscape or fish out of glass that covers the front and sides of the MH. I then plan to put very small lights so the fish body or the lights in the cityscape of the small windows light up. I can create you one (If you like mine) for say - some help with the flow in my 75G . Here are a few examples. These aren't the colors I'll be using but I like getting it on paper, otherwise it gone and forgotten.
. Here are a few examples. These aren't the colors I'll be using but I like getting it on paper, otherwise it gone and forgotten.
hey reef your very welcome for any info I can offer. the reason I think they use plastic braces is a money factor. it's always a money factor when it's business. unfortunate factor of living in the u.s. . most things are better here to me but not everything. ( why I won't buy a harley ) anyway the plastic is much cheaper than using thicker glass or glass braces. trust me if you have never owned an oceanic it's a real hassle having glass braces. they end up with salt creep and block light. you constantly have to clean them. euro tanks and some american smaller companies use what they have labeled euro bracing and some have no bracing but use a thicker panel of glass to prevent bowing and breaking. thick enough glass works perfectly fine with the proper silicon by it'self . if I was you I would leave the tank alone and rethink your lighting scheme. all t5's or 2 halides. . the light will most likely not be evenly mixed like the designs shown. the ends will have dark spots unless you have the light about 12-18 inches or more above the water if you center it. you could measure the angles and get it right. too high to make the light very usable for acro's . on either end you will definitely have in my opinion a bad lighting system. some like the blotchy look it's just not for me. also I would think you would want the most use out of the electric you are spending and turn the light so you get it as far side to side as possible. the bulb is meant to run front to back not parallel to the tank. gives much better coverage. light doesn't get wasted shining through the front of your glass hitting the floor where it is useless. I had 3 250 radiums on my 180 about 7 inches from the water and the spread was pretty much perfect. no supplemental lighting to even it out.
ReefArtist
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Hi Robthorn, I've really battled with this and with some comments I really thought I was being to picky about the center brace. I think we are on the same page. I was going to put a T5 in the back 1 MH to the left and then two T5 on the front. When I build up my funds again (After this weekend it might be awhile 
) get another MH for the right side. Then as we were going alone in the conversations I felt it would be a while before any of the corals I have at this time would require high light. I have mainly LPSs with a few SPS that are lower light and I might get a few high light corals and other inverts (Clam) but not a lot and one MH would do it on the 65. But as you said it looks blotchy looking - I might have to rethink.
Yes, I do agree with the thicker glass, they can go without the braces and ban around the tank. Not with the designs they have local - your normal All Glass aquariums. When I look at mine I really think disaster without the top and bottom support. I have heard that companies are starting to change their design without supports (Euro) because of problems are starting to appear. I think the top and bottom braces/bans are a good thing, I just wish they could put into the design moveable center braces. of course people would remove them and then blame the company - I see why they don't.
) get another MH for the right side. Then as we were going alone in the conversations I felt it would be a while before any of the corals I have at this time would require high light. I have mainly LPSs with a few SPS that are lower light and I might get a few high light corals and other inverts (Clam) but not a lot and one MH would do it on the 65. But as you said it looks blotchy looking - I might have to rethink. Yes, I do agree with the thicker glass, they can go without the braces and ban around the tank. Not with the designs they have local - your normal All Glass aquariums. When I look at mine I really think disaster without the top and bottom support. I have heard that companies are starting to change their design without supports (Euro) because of problems are starting to appear. I think the top and bottom braces/bans are a good thing, I just wish they could put into the design moveable center braces. of course people would remove them and then blame the company - I see why they don't.
well since you don't have alot of sps why is it that you want mh? I may sound against t5's sometimes but I am really not liking the reality to claims ratio. lasts 2 years they say but really last as long as any other bulb. 6 months . if I was doing a 65 I think you said i would probably just do t5's . 4 would be enough for any coral or invert you want to keep. I run 4 rows of bulbs on my 265 which is 5 inches deeper than a 65. I have a derasa on the bottom and a maxima about 1 foot below the water surface. both have grown alot in the short time I have had them. my water quality in my opinion has been horrible also. if you want a full blown sps system with clams I would say maybe mh but if that isn't your intent I would save my money. hey I tell you what I will pm you my phone number and you can come check my lighting out and see for yourself what t5 will look like. I have it in 4 stages if I turn on the actinics and you can see each bulb color by itself.
let me know
let me know
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
Hey robthorn,
Thank you I might need to take you up on that, it would be great to see a system that large and with lights that are staged in a pattern like that.
Well the story on my system is that I started out with all T5's and then I burnt up one of the ballast and had a problem with another. So I had to send both back - then I started to second think myself and talked to a few people and decided to go with the MH 250 with T5's for the Dawn to dust affect. At this time I couldn't afford two MH so I just ordered one. I also have a 75G tank that is VHO's (4) with T5's (2) so the MH would give me some experience with the lighting. This will be my first MH and it should be here on Wednesday. I figured once I get everything working and set I can then start deciding what I like and what I don't. That's the reason for me later to see your setup and then compare it with mine. I then can see where I went wrong or the likes and dislikes of individuals. The visual affects you can bring out of the corals are amazing. The VHO super actinics I have are beautiful the colors just pop. I thought about changing to all T5's on that tank but I had a lot of people tell me to keep the Actinic VHO's because nothing compares. So that is where I'm at right now. I will definitely give you a call once I get everything settled down - then you can come and see mine. I think that would be great.
Thanks so much for your help,
Carol
Thank you I might need to take you up on that, it would be great to see a system that large and with lights that are staged in a pattern like that.
Well the story on my system is that I started out with all T5's and then I burnt up one of the ballast and had a problem with another. So I had to send both back - then I started to second think myself and talked to a few people and decided to go with the MH 250 with T5's for the Dawn to dust affect. At this time I couldn't afford two MH so I just ordered one. I also have a 75G tank that is VHO's (4) with T5's (2) so the MH would give me some experience with the lighting. This will be my first MH and it should be here on Wednesday. I figured once I get everything working and set I can then start deciding what I like and what I don't. That's the reason for me later to see your setup and then compare it with mine. I then can see where I went wrong or the likes and dislikes of individuals. The visual affects you can bring out of the corals are amazing. The VHO super actinics I have are beautiful the colors just pop. I thought about changing to all T5's on that tank but I had a lot of people tell me to keep the Actinic VHO's because nothing compares. So that is where I'm at right now. I will definitely give you a call once I get everything settled down - then you can come and see mine. I think that would be great.
Thanks so much for your help,
Carol
ReefArtist
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Yea, I can't believe you're selling your setup. But I know it's a lot of work and time consuming, keeps you at home. You know any time you would like to go out of town I'd be more than happy to take care of things - if you ever reconsider.
Before you break it down I definitely want to see what you have done. If it's still up next week I'd like to come over if that would be OK. I have your number and would really love to see it. I have a few deadlines I'm working on that needs to get finished, but if needed I can run out. I hope you wouldn't mind me bringing my camera - I like to document for future reference. I know I'll be going to a larger tank in about two to three years and this will give me a start. Again, thank you so much for all the information you have provided.
Before you break it down I definitely want to see what you have done. If it's still up next week I'd like to come over if that would be OK. I have your number and would really love to see it. I have a few deadlines I'm working on that needs to get finished, but if needed I can run out. I hope you wouldn't mind me bringing my camera - I like to document for future reference. I know I'll be going to a larger tank in about two to three years and this will give me a start. Again, thank you so much for all the information you have provided.
not sure you will want to bring your camera but you are more than welcome to. I have tried this and that and have done alot of damage that way. when things started to look good and I had stopped that stuff and decided to just run it like I used to I had mass death from a salt mix as far as I can tell. well probably not the salt itself but a salt change. my problem is I am never satisfied and have to find something better. the tank will probably be here next week so not that big of a hurry. if anything changes with that I will let you know. if you do anything in reefing I would suggest being consistent . I know it I just have trouble doing it.
so being an artist I have to ask what kind of camera you have? I bought a canon xti a couple weeks ago but took it back because it wasn't exactly what I wanted. they are out of the nikon so I have to wait.
so being an artist I have to ask what kind of camera you have? I bought a canon xti a couple weeks ago but took it back because it wasn't exactly what I wanted. they are out of the nikon so I have to wait.
ReefArtist
In Memoriam
I have a Nikon D50 with a Nikon 105mm f/2.8 Micro VR. What's nice about the Nikon which I'm sure you know, is that when I want to upgrade I don't have to purchase all new lens. I got the D50 when it first can out and is a great camera, just a little less fine tuning. If I could afford it now I'd go with the D200 which is out of my price range, so I'd settle for the D80 . Any of the Nikons are nice and I'll be staying with the D50 for a very long time. The lens are the best but you have to be careful of the marketing - some are not made at the Nikon factory and are "Grey Markets". That's the way the Macro VR is - buyer beware. I actually do fusible glass and clay sculpture and I use the camera to take photos of my art that I'm selling.
. Any of the Nikons are nice and I'll be staying with the D50 for a very long time. The lens are the best but you have to be careful of the marketing - some are not made at the Nikon factory and are "Grey Markets". That's the way the Macro VR is - buyer beware. I actually do fusible glass and clay sculpture and I use the camera to take photos of my art that I'm selling.yeah I have been through the grey market deal. I almost bought the d50 and didn't. it was $499 with the 18-55 nikkor lens. that was ritz . now I think it's regular price. kicking myself a little .oh well I will get another deal. man you probably paid more for the lens than the camera.
