Can't Keep KH higher than 7

wow those seem pretty off.

My corals start dieing off when my alk gets below 8 yours is at 6.4.

Are you running it that way for a reason or are you tring to change your parameters? What are you using to suppliment your alk/calc/mag?

Last thing is watch your PO4. .15 is pretty high.
 
rbnice1 said:
wow those seem pretty off.

My corals start dieing off when my alk gets below 8 yours is at 6.4.

Are you running it that way for a reason or are you tring to change your parameters? What are you using to suppliment your alk/calc/mag?

Last thing is watch your PO4. .15 is pretty high.
Click to expand...

Yep, agree with RB here as well. The phosphate is too high, the mag is about 200 too low, the calcium is about 100 too low. The rest of the numbers don't matter. If I were you (and I'm not:D), I would get a decent alkalinity test kit (I like Lamotte), I would get a couple NEW calcium and magnesium test kits (I like Salifert, others like ELOS or API), and a refractometer properly calibrated with calibrating solution. I would test all of these parameters twice and bring those numbers back to us. Proper measurements are very important and are best obtained by reliable testing kits and equipment.

So, get us some numbers if you want to get your water right:D

Calcium
Magnesium
Specific Gravity
Alkalinity

These are the big four you need to get in balance and at the right numbers, it's all downhill from there;)
 
Natural sea water is around 1280. So I would recommend running from around 1250 to around 1400. I have seen some people post that they have more stability with running higher numbers.

Your magnesium is like the pen dale of the teeter totter :) and cal and alk is like the ends. If your mag is wrong it will never have a chance to stabilize. :)

Plus 1 also on what ^he^ said you need to bring us these numbers correctly.
 
You need to raise your mag first then start slowly raising your alk. Then either get some gfo or replace your existing. Natural sea water is around 8 dkh which is safe.

I am thinking the sign of copper that you have bad ro/di filters. Have that checked before it gets worse.
 
I would not trust the Salifert kh test kit. I know several of us that have gotten incorrect reading with their kits. The calibration fluid would read correct, but the test was reading way to high. The API seems to be more accurate.
 
julie I think all test kits have the possibility to be off. I alway get new test kits before I run out of my old one and do some testing one to the other to make sure the new one is accurate. I also bring water into the LFS and have them test occasionally just as a verification.


Also .02ppm copper is not bad at all. Tap water is around 1.3ppm. Achieving 0.00ppm would be almost impossible.

And am I the only one that keep mag high? I like mine between 1500-1550.
 
Alk test kits that I have right now are the api salifert and the tetra and another cheap brand that I can't remember.

As far as the one that I prefer is the api brand in that all of mine will read the same but my api is easier.
 
saltwater111 said:
The numbers I listed where from a lab. I use a Salifert Test kit for Mag., Cal., Nitrates, and Phosphates. API for KH.
Click to expand...

I am not a fan of "lab tests", unless you are trying to discern if your kits are accurate or not. With your Salifert kits, what are your magnesium and calcium levels? With your API kit, what is your alkalinity level?

The test kits you own should be what you base your actions on. I would seriously consider getting a second alkalinity test kit to keep that number honest. Salifert for phosphate is not good enough for low levels and a Hach or Hanna kit would be a LOT better.

If your Salifert kits are less than a year old, then you can probably use them for calcium and magnesium, if older than a year I would get some new ones. Testing is something I recommend doing twice a week until you get the hang of it and know your tank trends, then weekly if you are capable of consistently maintaining your parameters (this comes with experience).

I would make sure your numbers are sound, then use the calculator I gave you to bring up the magnesium, then the calcium and alkalinity. I would make sure your refractometer is calibrated with calibration fluid, then get your specific gravity to 1.026 or 35 PPT. After you get your numbers where you want them, get that calcium reactor tuned in;)

Maybe find a mentor up in your area that can give you a hand learning the ropes as chemistry is not everyones strong suit.
 
rbnice1 said:
julie I think all test kits have the possibility to be off. I alway get new test kits before I run out of my old one and do some testing one to the other to make sure the new one is accurate. I also bring water into the LFS and have them test occasionally just as a verification.


Also .02ppm copper is not bad at all. Tap water is around 1.3ppm. Achieving 0.00ppm would be almost impossible.

And am I the only one that keep mag high? I like mine between 1500-1550.
Click to expand...

I keep it up there at 1500+ as well but only because everytime I let it dip I get bryopsis. :furious: I'd like to keep it closer to NSW.
 
On magnesium, I will tolerate anything between 1250 and 1400. Calcium anything between 440 and 480. Alkalinity anything from 9-10.
 
I would FIRST ask that you get a different alkalinity kit to verify that number:) Perhaps a Lamotte.

As for the calcium, if your magnesium is low, which it is, you need to first boost it up per the calculator. After magnesium is up to snuff, then buffer calcium.
 
You need to get some mag chloride(magflake) and some mag sulfide(epson salt) You then use both to raise magnesium. I can get you the ratio but I think its like 8 to 2. After you get your mag where you want it go buy some baking soda. I use arm and hammer cause well I have never seen any other brand. Put that on a baking sheet and bake it at 400F for a hour or so then you have baked baking soda. I would use about a heaping spoon full per 120 gallons to raise Kh 1 point. Once you get your mag good then alk good, get some calcium chloride. You can get it at bulk reef supply or kent turbo calcium is the same stuff. and use it to raise your calcium.
 
Let's not confuse him with the cooking lesson, he has enough on his plate to swallow as it is:lol:
 
agreed Mag and calcium numbers are, low just a little bit, to be withing acceptable ranges. But I see these numbers quite often and they are a big cause for you alk being so low. Start with magnisum and slowly raise it then move to calcium and get it where you want it. keep those numbers stable for a week and see if your alk raises a bit on its own. Likely you will still need to dose for alk but it will give you a much better starting point

JMHO :)
 
Gary,

Bring me a sample of your water. I will test it for you and then we can discuss which way to go. You are getting some valuable information here but you need to prioritize how you are going to resolve the problem. Focusing your water chemistry on three parameters and trying to adjust all three at once can be problemsome (is that really a word:)). I will be more than glad to assist you with this.

Dwayne
 
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