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Thanks Iconz,
Now here's the dumb question
hob fuge?
I am assuming your talking about the
powerfilter?
would a canister do?
do i use as it suppose to be
used or am i suppose to mod,
take filter out put something
in tray?
and is bigger better or could i
get away with the 70.
sorry for the 100 questions
Thanks,
Geee
Now here's the dumb question
hob fuge?
I am assuming your talking about the
powerfilter?
would a canister do?
do i use as it suppose to be
used or am i suppose to mod,
take filter out put something
in tray?
and is bigger better or could i
get away with the 70.
sorry for the 100 questions
Thanks,
Geee
hob = hang on back. a fuge (short for refugium) is an external area that can be used for nutrient export through the growth of macro algae and for pod production. basically, growing macro algae in this area will starve other types of algae in your display. pods are small organisms that your inhabitants can eat. most people here look down on power filters b/c of their tendency to become nitrate factories over time... basically they do more harm than good... the live rock acts as a natural filter... most people recommend 1-1.5 lbs per gallon so you might want to add some more...
BurntOutReefer
New member
get teh powerheads without the venturi (air) attachement....you wont need air in your tank using them
You may want to think about a canister filter. In a FOWLR, you don't have to worry about increased nirtates as much because fish can handle higher nitrates. It will, however, cause more algae in your tank. You could consider a canister filter that includes a micron filter. I like the Magnum canister filters as they come with a micron filter. Just buy an extra micron filter and swap out every 2 weeks to avoid turning the filter into a biological filter. Lots of people also like Fluvals. Best thing about canister filters is Petsmart carries them so you can get all of your replacement media there. You will likely want to run carbon too, so a Fluval may be the way to go. Plus a canister filter will give you more water flow.
You don't need to have air with the powerheads.
Seaclones are complete crap. Don't even bother buying one. Save your money for a better skimmer in a few months rather than wasting your money on a seaclone. I like the Aqua C Remora. Its a much better skimmer.
You don't need to have air with the powerheads.
Seaclones are complete crap. Don't even bother buying one. Save your money for a better skimmer in a few months rather than wasting your money on a seaclone. I like the Aqua C Remora. Its a much better skimmer.
TekCat
New member
HOB fuge looks something like this. Some people had successfuly converted their powerfilter in a refugims too. It is way cheaper than the one I mentioned in the link. DIY forum has lots of experts that could help you with that.
Agree 100% on adding more LR. And yes, better skimmer than a Seaclone would do lots of good to your tank.
Canisters not usually used as a fulltime equipment in reefs, unless you remove all the media and replace it with LR rubble and have it for a purpose of additional water circulation.
Powerheads "we" use without air. Protein skimmers provide plenty of water aeration; and bubbles coming out of saltwater will make salt creep on dry surfaces.
Now additinal suggestions for your checklist:
- source of RO/DI water (RO/DI unit, or get RO water from LFS it is up to you)
- refractometer (hydrometers are inacurate, especially swing-arm style)
- test kits (stay away from strip-style, or RedSea
)
- more powerheads (you'd need at least of 1000 GPH water turnaround)
... that's all for now.
Good luck and Reef_ON!!!
Agree 100% on adding more LR. And yes, better skimmer than a Seaclone would do lots of good to your tank.
Canisters not usually used as a fulltime equipment in reefs, unless you remove all the media and replace it with LR rubble and have it for a purpose of additional water circulation.
Powerheads "we" use without air. Protein skimmers provide plenty of water aeration; and bubbles coming out of saltwater will make salt creep on dry surfaces.
Now additinal suggestions for your checklist:
- source of RO/DI water (RO/DI unit, or get RO water from LFS it is up to you)
- refractometer (hydrometers are inacurate, especially swing-arm style)
- test kits (stay away from strip-style, or RedSea
)- more powerheads (you'd need at least of 1000 GPH water turnaround)
... that's all for now.
Good luck and Reef_ON!!!
Thanks Everyone for your input.
forgot to mention i have 2 200w heaters.
surprized nobody caught that
Will get more lr 20 lbs more will give me 75lbs.
How about more ls?
TekCat:
i have a kent marine hi-s r/o
Question, is the water suppose to
come out slowly? i think there might
be something wrong with it.
refractometer will get, any brand?
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Reef Master Liquid Test Kit?
will buy one more powerhead, where would i place
this one? the other two are on opposite ends.
bubbles out of skimmer bad or good?
you RCer's are great,
thanks,
Geee
forgot to mention i have 2 200w heaters.
surprized nobody caught that
Will get more lr 20 lbs more will give me 75lbs.
How about more ls?
TekCat:
i have a kent marine hi-s r/o
Question, is the water suppose to
come out slowly? i think there might
be something wrong with it.
refractometer will get, any brand?
Aquarium Pharmaceuticals Reef Master Liquid Test Kit?
will buy one more powerhead, where would i place
this one? the other two are on opposite ends.
bubbles out of skimmer bad or good?
you RCer's are great,
thanks,
Geee
TekCat
New member
RO water does come slowly, if for instance your RO membrane rated for 65GPD (gallons per day), then you should be getting around 2-3 gallons per hour (actual production of RO water also depends on water temperature and water pressure). ... so, time it, if it is too slow, then check your water line pressure and compare it to what's membrane's operating pressure is.
Refractometer: this one might work just fine. Actually many models very similar, so shop around, what's important is that the unit has Automatic temperature compensation funtionality.
Test kits: I haven't used Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kits so I can't comment on it. Most agree on accuracy and ease of use of Salifert tests. (I use one too. Does this sound like a comercial?)
As far as waterflow goes, you'd have to experiment on that one. Every tank is different, so there is no one true method of getting water flow setup. Important thing is not having areas in your tank where water is not moving. Stagnant water pockets is usually where detrius ends up accumulating and rotting there. Another imortant point is to avoid laminar flow, rather have it turbulent. THis is achieved by pointing powerheads so their streams intersect; also putting them on wavemaker unit; installing rotating water flow deflectors, etc... trial and error is the only way to go.
Microbubbles: are not usually harmfull, they are rather visually annoying. If this is a new skimmer, then it is normal for some bubbles to escape.
Sand: if you are going for DSB then you need more. Otherwise do whatever is pleasing to your eye. You could always add more to bump up depth an inch or two later.
Refractometer: this one might work just fine. Actually many models very similar, so shop around
, what's important is that the unit has Automatic temperature compensation funtionality. Test kits: I haven't used Aquarium Pharmaceuticals kits so I can't comment on it. Most agree on accuracy and ease of use of Salifert tests. (I use one too. Does this sound like a comercial?
)As far as waterflow goes, you'd have to experiment on that one. Every tank is different, so there is no one true method of getting water flow setup. Important thing is not having areas in your tank where water is not moving. Stagnant water pockets is usually where detrius ends up accumulating and rotting there. Another imortant point is to avoid laminar flow, rather have it turbulent. THis is achieved by pointing powerheads so their streams intersect; also putting them on wavemaker unit; installing rotating water flow deflectors, etc... trial and error is the only way to go.
Microbubbles: are not usually harmfull, they are rather visually annoying. If this is a new skimmer, then it is normal for some bubbles to escape.
Sand: if you are going for DSB then you need more. Otherwise do whatever is pleasing to your eye. You could always add more to bump up depth an inch or two later.
