Chiller fan and compressor won't turn off.

It means the coils are working and the brains sound to be as well. But the coils just move a arm which is the actual contact. If the relays are not welded then the output contacts should be either 0V or 110V AC... (If it has welded then it will be 110V AC all the time)

The output pins should be the pins in the middleish of the board with the fat solder lines coming from them. They probably just go to the blue/red blade connections though, so testing there would be easier.

Another easy test would be to swap the red and blue wires. If the cooler doesn't start running right off when plugged back in, the cooler circuit was stuck on. The heater plug should now be hot at all times, and the cooler will only turn on if the temperature is too low, but at least it proves the culprit is just the relay.
 
Gorgok said:
It means the coils are working and the brains sound to be as well. But the coils just move a arm which is the actual contact. If the relays are not welded then the output contacts should be either 0V or 110V AC... (If it has welded then it will be 110V AC all the time)

The output pins should be the pins in the middleish of the board with the fat solder lines coming from them. They probably just go to the blue/red blade connections though, so testing there would be easier.

Another easy test would be to swap the red and blue wires. If the cooler doesn't start running right off when plugged back in, the cooler circuit was stuck on. The heater plug should now be hot at all times, and the cooler will only turn on if the temperature is too low, but at least it proves the culprit is just the relay.
Click to expand...
switch the blue and red wires on the board where all four plug in next to,each other? (White,black,red,blue)
 
Gorgok said:
It means the coils are working and the brains sound to be as well. But the coils just move a arm which is the actual contact. If the relays are not welded then the output contacts should be either 0V or 110V AC... (If it has welded then it will be 110V AC all the time)

The output pins should be the pins in the middleish of the board with the fat solder lines coming from them. They probably just go to the blue/red blade connections though, so testing there would be easier.

Another easy test would be to swap the red and blue wires. If the cooler doesn't start running right off when plugged back in, the cooler circuit was stuck on. The heater plug should now be hot at all times, and the cooler will only turn on if the temperature is too low, but at least it proves the culprit is just the relay.
Click to expand...

So what pins are you saying I need to put my multimeter probes on and on what setting? Do I keep the black probe on the J9 (jumper9 DC GND) or on one of the relay pins? Which on this pic?
 

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And yes you're right, in between both X's(representing the 5th relay terminal/post has been clipped off for this board) & the NomallyOpen spots, the 2 sets of prongs coming down through the board ARE INDEED the Blue and Red wire spade connection's for the wires to push down on to.
 
@SMdude you’re a god damned genius.......... switching the terminals proved its a relay problem. But now I gotta get a new one, cause it only chills when it’s BELOW the set temp lol. But the outlet n back receives power constantly.
 
@gorgok my bad dude, I’ve had this question on a LOt of different forums and got your name mixed up. My honest mistake. But your simple switch of terminals clarified the problem and now I know it’s a relay.

But based off my very first post, can you determine what relay is the chiller? I think it’s the one with the markings on it(labeled as poles 1&2) and want to be sure.
 
Pretty sure its the one closer to the yellow transformer that is the cooler circuit relay. The circuits don't cross, so the heat relay is on the heat wire side, cooler wire on cooler relay side. But i think the blade terminals are labeled for the temperature, not the function (so hot is more like 'too hot, run cooler'). Could be wrong on the labels/wires, but whichever wire color goes to the compressor is the circuit you are after (originally, not after switching them!).

The good thing is it doesn't have to be that relay, just one that is the same footprint (common) and same or better ratings.
https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/omron-electronics-inc-emc-div/G5LE-14-DC12/Z1012-ND/280369

This should be equivalent.
 
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Removing a soldered in relay will be no fun without a good solder sucker. But if don't have one you can always do it the destructive way (the relay is already broken, so what the heck). Cut the relay to bits from the top so each pin is free of the rest, then removing each individually is no big deal.
 
Gorgok said:
Removing a soldered in relay will be no fun without a good solder sucker. But if don't have one you can always do it the destructive way (the relay is already broken, so what the heck). Cut the relay to bits from the top so each pin is free of the rest, then removing each individually is no big deal.
Click to expand...
Well I bought these, https://www.ebay.com/itm/2pcs-HRS4H...513934?hash=item2a7fb9de4e:g:IhUAAOSwTM5Y8j9k

Should Work?

And some solder wick so I should be able to do it. Lol. I'll take a pic of the board straight on when the day comes that they arrive from China, so we can follow thentrac3s to be sure of the right relay. So keep an eye on this thread!!!
 
Should be fine. Solder wick may be able to do it, it helps that the relay is heavy and gravity will be in your favor getting it out. Getting access to the bottom may also be a little less fun than i remembered with the boards sandwiched like that.

I would probably undo the sandwich first... it should be pretty simple to re-align close enough.
 
Yah there are 4 joints on each side to remove to take them apart from each other. The wick will definitely help there. But the relay itself I hope I can get under and snip those contacts, if not, it’s gonna suck.
 
I’ve ordered the relays and some solder wick. So I will update you all when they arrive. Who knows how long that will be though since they’re from eBay and coming from China.
 
Heh. You're a braver man than I.

My chiller had the same problem. I bought a $20 temperature controller and just had it turn the chiller on/off as needed. Bonus is that it can controller my heaters too, so I don't have to rely on the crappy built-in thermostat on those.

Good luck with the soldering.
 
BigDave said:
Heh. You're a braver man than I.

My chiller had the same problem. I bought a $20 temperature controller and just had it turn the chiller on/off as needed. Bonus is that it can controller my heaters too, so I don't have to rely on the crappy built-in thermostat on those.

Good luck with the soldering.
Click to expand...

Dude no way!! What brand/size? & ya I knew it was something small on the cob 5hat just needed to be replaced and so I searched for help in MULTIPLE forums until I got it. Everyone told me to just buy a temp controller like you but I said **** that. The solder wick and relays cost me $6. I think I'll be able to do it.. I've soldered plenty in my life. Just nothing with PCBs.
 
1/4hp. Don't remember the brand.

Just remember, if you screw up the control board, you now have a brick instead of a useable chiller.

You're saving money on the fix, unless you screw it up worse, and then you either have to figure out what went wrong, or you end up replacing the chiller.

At my point in life, I don't gamble anymore.
 
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