Choosing a RO/DI unit

sohal1025

Active member
My existing unit is old and inefficient, and not quite sure if it is even DI. Need some help with choosing a good one I will not regret later. Some have 4-6 stages. Do I actually need 2 DI cartridges or a flush kit. Are the water saver systems benificial?

I see some company sites charging about $200 and some other units on EBAY @$70+. Are those garbage or the way to go?

Any other info. that could help would be greatly appreciated.
 
If you look at RO/DI units they are all pretty much the same at the basic level. Spectrapure is a well know quality brand product. You mentioned 2 DI units. Depending on how much water production you are going to be doing, will decide your requirements. The reason I say that is that the DI resin breaks down and you can see it happen. The more DI resin you have will also extend the time between change outs. Its effectiveness can be measured in two ways. By measuring your TDS ( total disolved solids ) or by using the color change cartidges. I recommend measuring the TDS so that you are evaluating your whole filter. With a 90 gal system and I am going by your info on your footer. A 4 stage single DI cartridge system will be sufficent.

The 60 GPD unit SC has would be a good start at 210 bucks. You can always add on the gizmos, i.e. pressure guage and electronic TDS meter later if you don't want to spend that extra 100 now.

In reference to your question about the units on EBAY. The filter canisters are all the same design. Now, I haven't spent much time researching the filters they use. I would suppose that the filter inserts could be of a lower grade just like you can find for your home furnace. Another item to consider with the cheaper EBAY units is that the majority of them have white non see through canisters. You need to see the filters to monitor their cleanliness. The see through canisters are more expensive.

On the flush kits, I really don't know how much good they do. The reason I say that is you can't see inside your RO membrane. I have no way to gauge wether it really works or not. I have one and periodically turn it on, but there is no obvious difference present.

Just a few things to help you out.
 
Hi,

I would go with a RO/DI unit. The DI portion will reduce your TDS down to the 0 range. I think Spectrapure or Kent both make good units. I would get a 60 gal/day unit so you don't have to run it all the time. I had an older RO unit at 25 gal/day and it took a while to run the qty. of RO water I needed for my 75 gal. tank.

Dave

Dave
 
i saw the spectrapure unit up at salty the other day and it looked nice. I plan on talking to them on my next one about their experience with spectrapure.
 
Try these. They work awesome. My water is well water with no water softner. The tap water has 465 tds. After my Typhoon III it reads 0 tds. AIR WATER ICE
 
A couple of years ago, I purchased a unit off ebay for ~$100. I never got my TDS below 5. Although, this level may be acceptable to some, I was not happy. Especially since my tapwater TDS was only ~140. The major problem was the RO/Membrane did not sit in its housing correctly and allowed water to bypass. Furthermore, the DI resin in most of those lays in a canister across the top of the unit. Because its only half full of resin, water can get by.

I left that piece of junk behind when we moved. Spending the extra $ would have been worth it now that I have to replace the unit.
 
I started with a used ebay filter direct unit, and hated it also. Really poor rejection rate. DI chamber was small/tended to channel. Cheaply made housing, threaded fittings between canisters...
 
i got mine from melevs reef also and couldnt be happier, im actually going to be ordering a second unit from him and replacement cartridges in about a month
 
serpentman and scottfarcuz... what brand names were the ones you picked up from ebay, so I know what ones to stay away from.
So basically stay away from the ones with a horizontal DI chamber and get one thats vertical.
 
Like everything else in this hobby, if you research before you buy you're more likely to end up with something you are happy with over the long run. That said, some folks are originally wowed by the low purchase prices on the ebay systems. Once you understand how the systems work, and modify/replumb/replace parts on the cheap systems you'll find you'll have been better off getting a decent system in the first place.

We do a steady flow of business reworking ebay systems.

Remember more stages does not mean a better system.

Russ
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10575338#post10575338 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by sohal1025
serpentman and scottfarcuz... what brand names were the ones you picked up from ebay, so I know what ones to stay away from.
So basically stay away from the ones with a horizontal DI chamber and get one thats vertical.

Sohal,
Mine was filter direct. I don't know if they are still on ebay or not. I got mine used.

My current unit is from buckeye, and I've been very happy with it. I also buy all my filters, TDS meter, and DI resin from them at the frag swaps.

Russ,
My current dow membrane is about 3 years old now and has lost about 4% efficiency. I am really interested in the new membranes you have listed on the site. 150GPD and 98.5% rejection. Is there some catch to these? When I got mine years ago most membranes above 75GPD were rated @ about 90% at best....
 
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