New Ro-di system & aquascape questions

[Twisk]

Hey everyone. I’m not new to the hobby, but new vs old school. I’ve had a fish saltwater aquarium for 25 yrs and another 10yrs a few years prior. I’m replacing my 55 fish aquarium to a bio cube Reef system. I’ve actually started a separate thread to track my progress on it. My old aquarium was just basic dechlorinated tap water that I made my own salt from. It’s been a successful tank for what it was with really just fish.

I’m committed to do the new Reef tank correctly using Ro-Di water. The initial fill will be coming from the local aquarium/reef store. Going forward I’m looking into investing into my own Ro-Di set up to save TIME & $$ in the long run. I’m fine with mixing my own salt water.

I have been reading a lot on RODI, watching YouTube vids and learned a TON. I am going to be honest, the whole hobby has changed a bunch since I first started with many new options to make things easier for the hobbyist for sure. I’ve seen so many “letter abbreviations” it’s like a whole other language and can be confusing to a NEW person.

That said, I have a couple questions on RO-DI for the long time users to be sure I understand so talk to me like I’m a 10 yr old here rather than in all these codes. Sorry if these are just obvious questions.

Am I understanding this correct
1- I can set up an RO-DI to my bathroom faucet and just process a couple gallons of water as I need it, then unhook it until I need it again? I’m going to have a 12g and a 32g bio cubes so I don’t think I need to be having 100’s of gallons on standby at any given time.

2- STORAGE: can I just store the fresh Ro-Di water in a couple 5g Poland spring jugs that you get with water dispensers? (Hope so because I have like 6)

3- Should I still need to dechlorinate the fresh RO-DI water before use? Is it ok to just sit in the jugs until needed. I’m assuming Yes, until it’s mixed with salt which will have the powerheads going when mixed. I know to only use Freshwater or distilled for topoffs and mixed saltwater for water changes.

4- TYPE Is there a basic system to be sure to get? I guess I should maybe take some tap water to the fish place when I get my initial fill water and just have them test my tap water. Will they be able to tell me which filters I would need to use based on the test?
Im assuming different people may need different canisters on the RO-DI system or is there like a basic standard 3-4 canister to begin with then add or change up based on your tap water conditions.

5- What is a rough price range I should target for? I’ve seen $75 -hundreds of dollars and to me they all look the same. I don’t want to be that guy going in to buy something and being sold way more than I actually need. I am guessing the smart thing would be to buy it from a reputable aquarium place like ThatPetPlace or MarineandReef reef or somewhere that actually deals with the hobby, OR could it be cheaper to buy it as a raw product off Amazon or a Home Depot type store.

6- AQUASCAPE I’m planning on Live sand, Rodi mixed saltwater and a Reef Starter to get things started. I have a new dry aqua scape piece to start that was made with marcorock, but it’s new, dry and I know the safest. The place I’m getting my RODI water asked what I was using to aqua scape and said they sell cultured wet live rock they have in giant tubs under their coral tables. He said some of the older tubs have been in there for months/years and great for startups. He said some have copepods and all the starter good stuff to save a lot of time. It’s a long existed store that specializes in salt & reef systems. They mostly sell frags, and corals and supplies rather than fish. I’m aware I will go through the “ugly stages”. I’ve done it more than once with my old 55g. With the new 32g is it worth it to go with his cultured rock or should I go the distance and just grab extra pieces of the new marcorock to build on what I have? I’m ok with ugly just hesitant to bring in the PESTS right from the get go during initial cycling.

6- (sorry if this duplicates some other thread, I have been reading them I promise. Some threads are just older so newer suggestions and changes may be available now) Do you have a recommendation for an affordable system for a 1st time user of an Ro-DI.

I have city TAP water not well or spring water.
I plan to have in my reef tank basic popular corals and maybe an anemone. Some things that would be ok in a 32 Biocube lighting…. Maybe updating the lighting down the road, but for initial start the stock set up for now to get through the first year or two.

Thanks

 

[wvned]

1 It is possible but harder to connect a filter to a bathroom faucet rather than a kitchen one. The thread for the part you unscrew, the aerator is different on a kitchen faucet and a bathroom one. Some fancy kitchen faucets are hard to connect to as well.
I believe I have seen an adapter that makes it possible though.

2 Yes, that would be fine.

3 No - the filter removes chlorine.

4 You need 4 things. A sediment filter. A carbon block. A reverse osmosis membrane. A deionizing resin cannister. All filters have these 4 things. There are some options but you will not likely need them.

5 Sorry I don't know. I bought mine 5-6 years ago and everything looks way to high to me.
I started with this one that was slightly more than $100 then.
4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI System
They have a cheaper one that lacks the pressure gauge and TDS meter. I wanted those.

6 All of my systems have live rock from the sea. Cycle the tank with the dead stuff and then add a small amount of the live rock from the store to seed the pods and stuff. Even better would be some rubble from the bottom of the vat.

Pests. If you stay with the hobby you will get them. At some point you will have to learn to deal with them.

I have not shopped for a RODI in a long time. I am not sure what is out there

There are the RO buddy type that use filters that only fit them and general ones that parts are generally available from anywhere and universal. If you plan on having bigger tanks or more than one I would get a 75 gallon per day to start. I was buying water until I set up the 54 gallon tank. Then it became too much at 8 pounds per gallon to carry home. I kept my filter in a closet and set it up in the kitchen and made water one day a week at first.

Notice a 6 stage RODI has more canisters but some are just duplicates. It does exactly what a 4 stage does.
This is to make lots of water and you don't need that.
Stage 1 is the same (1)
Stage 2 and 3 are carbon blocks, You need one (2)
Stage 4 is the RO membrane (3)
Stage 5 and 6 are DI resin. Again you need only 1 (4)

Lots of interesting things to read or watch here.
Charts & Diagrams - Bulk Reef Supply

 

[reefing102]

So I’m a 50/50 newb to RODI myself. I have an RODI system but, I couldn’t tell you the first thing other than what I have, so please take what I’m about to say with a grain of salt:

1. I honestly can’t answer. Mine is always hooked up to a spare washer hook up in the basement.

2. Those should work just fine, however I keep my RODI circulating as well as pre mixed saltwater.

3. There should be no need to dechlorinate RODI to the best of my knowledge. I don’t do that to mine and I also use city water (that occasionally has a bleachy smell).

4. Any system should work. I know the bulk reef supply systems are popular. I run a spectrapure but they’re essentially the same. That said, mine is a 4 stage (sediment filter, carbon, RO membrane, DI resin). Some go up to I think 7 or 8 stages but I honestly haven’t a clue what for. You may or may not need a booster pump depending on your water pressure as there is a “best pressure” for optimal filtration.

5. Aquascape how you want. I will always reccomend having at least a couple pieces of live rock for the bacteria diversity if nothing else. If it’s running on their coral system just in the sump, I couldn’t imagine too many bad hitchhikers/pests

6. Better to ask and get opinions than use something that may be incorrect. As mentioned above, the bulk reef supply ones are popular. I’ve also heard the RO buddie does a decent job just no DI (I think)

 

[wvned]

I don't know the economics of it anymore and my 4 stage has been modified by me to make water for a big system.
It used to be the RO buddy was cheaper to buy but got you on refills. I do not know if that is true now.

RODI water is water, circulating it does nothing. This may not be true for mixed saltwater however.

The one thing to worry about. Some cities use an extremely persistent type of choline in the water. It is harder to remove and usually requires so extra things to be done. I have never had to deal with it.

Chloramines (also known as secondary disinfection) are disinfectants used to treat drinking water and they:

• Are most commonly formed when ammonia is added to chlorine to treat drinking water.
• Provide longer-lasting disinfection as the water moves through pipes to consumers.

Chloramines have been used by water utilities since the 1930s. More than one in five Americans uses drinking water treated with chloramines.

Water that contains chloramines and meets EPA regulatory standards is safe to use for:

• Drinking
• Cooking
• Bathing
• Other household uses

Many public water systems (PWSs) use chlorine as their primary disinfectant. However, some PWSs changed their secondary disinfectant to chloramines to meet disinfection byproduct requirements. Since then, consumers have raised questions about this switch in disinfection.

Chloramine is a killer of fish but it is added to our mains water to disinfect the water supply and prevent us from getting diseases and to keep the water pipe work clean. At one time chlorine was added to the mains supply and this is not such a problem to deal with, just filling a bucket and leaving it to stand for a couple of days would guarantee that the chlorine was dispersed through gaseous exchange but this does not work with Chloramine.

 

[griss]

One thing to watch out for with RO/DI is TDS Creep.

Ask A Question: TDS Creep

www.uswatersystems.com

The on/off of an can decimate your DI very quickly.

 

[griss]

I had my topoff as a simple float valve in the sump connected direct to my RO/DI and was burning through DI extremely fast because I didn’t understand TDS Creep.

Since, I’ve added a reservoir between the RO/DI and the float valve. Also have a diverter valve to send the first few minutes of water from the RO to waste before hitting the DI.

 

[Twisk]

1, the aerator is different on a kitchen faucet and a bathroom one.

4 You need 4 things. A sediment filter. A carbon block. A reverse osmosis membrane. A deionizing resin cannister. All filters have these 4 things. There are some options but you will not likely need them.
6 All of my systems have live rock from the sea. Cycle the tank with the dead stuff and then add a small amount of the live rock from the store to seed the pods and stuff. Even better would be some rubble from the bottom of the vat.

Pests. If you stay with the hobby you will get them. At some point you will have to learn to deal with them.

Lots of interesting things to read or watch here.
Charts & Diagrams - Bulk Reef Supply

Thank You so much.
I’m aware of the sink/bath difference. I’ve been checking for a gooseneck faucet that has a compatible screw aerator.

That helps with the RI-DO info.

I’ve dealt with pests over the decades in my 55. I remember when I first started it was bad so hoping to have a smoother restart this time. Plan to do a better prep of any rock that has any sort of life to it this time. I think one of the rocks I started my tank with 25 yrs ago was a breeder rock for flatworms LOL. I actually thought about taking a large piece and breaking it up to put into the bottom of my back filtration.

I have been checking out the info on BulkReefSupply as well. Their 52 weeks of reefing series was a great refresher for me and that was when I realized how things have changed and a LOT and making things easier… like cycling

 

[Twisk]

5. Aquascape how you want. I will always reccomend having at least a couple pieces of live rock for the bacteria diversity if nothing else. If it’s running on their coral system just in the sump, I couldn’t imagine too many bad hitchhikers/pests

Thanks for the info. This answer is how I feel too. He did say it was the same system and their coral beds are PRISTINE and super healthy. They get a good turnover of frags as well he said, which tells me they are a reliable source.

My go to shop decided to close their entire fish dept except for now 1 row of basic filter supplies and a fridge of some food. So I’m glad I found this new place actually closer that I never knew was there.

 

[Twisk]

One thing to watch out for with RO/DI is TDS Creep.

Ask A Question: TDS Creep

www.uswatersystems.com

The on/off of an can decimate your DI very quickly.

Thank You This is the type of info I have not read about and since I was planning to use it off my bathroom sink it would not be getting very much flow like the kitchen would. So now it make me wonder about unhooking and rebooking it up just for water changes once a week.

 

[Twisk]

I had my topoff as a simple float valve in the sump connected direct to my RO/DI and was burning through DI extremely fast because I didn’t understand TDS Creep.

Since, I’ve added a reservoir between the RO/DI and the float valve. Also have a diverter valve to send the first few minutes of water from the RO to waste before hitting the DI.

My issue is I have a dry basement with no sink or water source unless I tap into a line which I don’t want to do. so I am stuck to using a sink when needed

 

[griss]

All you need to do if you’re going to turn the RO on and off manually is install one of these…

TDS Creep Bypass

At Buckeye Hydro we specialize in providing the highest quality water filtration systems and accessories for every potential need.

www.buckeyehydro.com

 

[griss]

My issue is I have a dry basement with no sink or water source unless I tap into a line which I don’t want to do. so I am stuck to using a sink when needed

Do you have a drain in the basement? Assuming the tank is going to be in the basement????

 

[griss]

So, my RO/DI system goes like this…

Micron filter
Carbon block
Chloramine carbon block
RO
Cation resin
Anion resin
Mixed bed resin

 

[Twisk]

Do you have a drain in the basement? Assuming the tank is going to be in the basement????

No. The tank itself will be on the main floor in the living room so plan to prep the water for changes in another part of the house

 

[Twisk]

So, my RO/DI system goes like this…

Micron filter
Carbon block
Chloramine carbon block
RO
Cation resin
Anion resin
Mixed bed resin

Wow so you have 7 canisters? Or does one canister handle more that one of those steps? I’m also only going to be running a 32g and smaller 12g. So I don’t need massive volumes of water like a Large 100+ requires. I just want access to good water for long term budget/convenience purposes as opposed to my last tank which was strictly dechlorinated tap mix. After 25 yrs I felt the “old tank syndrome was really starting to set in which was another reason I am starting over. That plus I want to graduate to REEF over fish system this time.

 

[griss]

Yes, I run 7 canisters total. The reason for the three DI is, my local water depletes Anion faster than Cation. So, I change that one out more frequently than the Cation. No sense in just using mixed bed and having to replace that before the Cation is exhausted. The last cartridge, the mixed bed, is just there as a fail safe. My post membrane TDS is around 6 and my product water TDS is 0.

 

[griss]

For your needs, I think a simple RO/DI system would be sufficient. Make sure you have a pressure gauge. I had to add a booster out to my system to get good production from the membrane.

Oh, you might want to contact your water company to see if they use chloramine. Regular carbon doesn’t remove the chloramine. That’s another reason I have so many cartridges, my water company uses chloramine.

 

[Twisk]

For your needs, I think a simple RO/DI system would be sufficient. Make sure you have a pressure gauge. I had to add a booster out to my system to get good production from the membrane.

Oh, you might want to contact your water company to see if they use chloramine. Regular carbon doesn’t remove the chloramine. That’s another reason I have so many cartridges, my water company uses chloramine.

Thanks again. I guess you could never overfilter your starter water so best to do as many steps as needed. I plan to check on the chloramine. I’m in PA and believe is one of the states that do use it but will double check. All down the east side of PA is pretty much a giant shale or limestone & quarry shelf so I’m sure we have tons of metals in our water as well.

 

[SFALReefer]

I just set this one up last night and it was extremely simple. I ordered another 30' line with some connectors\valves, to make life easier. Amazon.com

 

[area66]

An extra canister with a SpectraPure SilicaBuster DI Cartridge will be a good addon, you place it at the end of the system after the regular DI cartridge