chosing qt

[tmkx3]

I am in the process of setting up a qt to treat ick. I am gonna use coppersafe. I have to options. I have a 55 that is going to be on loan and A 30g that currently has gold fish in it that will be relocated for a while. I have read that if you treat a tank with copper that the tank can never house inverts again because the copper absorbs into the seals and glass. I have read that the copper can never be removed. If that is the case I don't want to mess up the 55g tank. The 30 has already had copper in it. If the other fish don't have ick can I just put them in the 55 for 8 weeks and treat the tang alone in the 30g?

 

[leebca]

Once you have properly identified Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans) in your display tank, on any fish, you need to assume that all fish are infected. Marine Ich (MI) typically infects fish gills first, where you, the aquarist, can't see it. So once you've made this diagnosis, then all fish need treatment.

Use the large aquarium. Copper residue in seals is not significant enough to ruin the tank for future display tank use. Much of that copper can be leached out or reacted prior to using the tank in the future.

Some things to read:
http://www.petsforum.com/personal/trevor-jones/marineich.html

Steven Proââ"šÂ¬Ã¢"žÂ¢s article on Marine Ich (Part 1):
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-08/sp/index.htm
(Part 2):
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-10/sp/feature/index.htm

Good luck! :rollface:

 

[cstamper65605]

Lee, you mention that most of the copper can be leached out before setting up a tank again.....how?

I have a tank in hypo now (hosp. tank, 29 g) but I first dosed with copper (Cupramine) at a level of .20 with a Seatest test. After 2 days I changed my treatment method to hypo. To remove the copper, I have been doing water changes, and I have a magnum HOT filter running with both carbon and Cuprasorb. Over a period of 3 wks I have only been able to get the copper in the water down to .10--seems this stuff is pretty tenacious!

I know this level is not toxic to fish, but would ANY level be toxic to inverts? When/if I get my reading to zero (.05 is the lowest reading on my vial) , I assume some of the copper will still reside in the silicone of the tank (it's bare bottom of course) so do you think I will need to leach out the copper from the silicone, and if so, how?

 

[leebca]

Wash and rinse several times with bleach. Follow that by rinses with tap water. Follow that with rinses with RO/DI and then let tank sit with RO/DI in it for a few days. Rinse again with RO/DI and do your copper test AFTER adding saltwater made from water that you've checked and verified has no copper in it to begin with.

 

[cstamper65605]

Okay, Lee, will do, and thanks!

 

[kevin2000]

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7259799#post7259799 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by cstamper65605
I have been doing water changes, and I have a magnum HOT filter running with both carbon and Cuprasorb. Over a period of 3 wks I have only been able to get the copper in the water down to .10--seems this stuff is pretty tenacious!

Sounds to me that you may have a bad test kit. The combo of carbon, cuprasorb and water changes should have removed the copper within the water column. Not all test kits can accurately measure Cupramine.

Seachem says that Cupramine is not suppose to have any lingering negative effects like std. copper .. not sure whether thats marketing hype or not .. but I doubt that using cuprmaine for two days in a bare bottom tank would have any negative long term impacts so long as your rinse the tank well before using.

Hope this helps.

 

[cstamper65605]

[/B][/QUOTE] Sounds to me that you may have a bad test kit. The combo of carbon, cuprasorb and water changes should have removed the copper within the water column. Not all test kits can accurately measure Cupramine.

Kevin2000, thanks for the info. Went to IMAC this past wknd and was told the very same thing by Seachem, so I guess we will have to get a new test kit. The one we have is very old.