Cinder block stand

doh! I know I am not the most tactful person sometimes.. but honestly.... your reply kinda "sucked"! It makes my frank responses look polite. :)

BTW concrete and cinder blocks have a fairly high compressive strength. A car tire however has a very small contact area and would tend to point load the block.... If it was a hollow block, then it likely broke the span between the cavities by either smashing it in from the side or prying it apart from the top.... While we are being frank, it sure does not sound like your father was to smart about the way he supported the automobile and is lucky that he did not got mashed like a bug!

Also we need to be sure if we are talking about CINDER BLOCKS or CONCRETE BLOCKS.. as there is a large strength difference... though either would easily be able to support 800 lbs in the configuration above. One may want to add cardboard or masonite between layers to act as a compressive buffer to prevent shear due to point loading of a single block due to imperfections (as no mortar is being used to even things out).

Bean
 
I would have no problem using your design to support my 90 gallon. My only objection would be I'd require a middle support.
While these blocks are designed for houses, also keep in mind how they're used. The weight is distributed evenly over the 'span', not simple load points.
I dont' think it's overkill either.
The reason people take the 'safer than sorry' approach is it's easier to not deal with a possibility of breakage than to deal with an eventually possible breakage.
Otherwise your set up is fine.
 
All I know is, a tank stand is something you dont want to skimp on. I wouldn't mind spending 100-150 to build one. If that tank breaks then your entire investment goes down the drain.
 
my question is why do you mind making a brace on it? 2x4's are how much for a 8 ft length?Stand the 2x4's on their edge box them out and sleep well.
 
I have absolutely no tools for woodworking otherwise I would build a stand from wood. Right now I am working on cleaning up the mess my return pump created and so far it has been a bit pricy. For now I will just wait until I can buy a stand.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7852933#post7852933 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by ChinChek787
I will probably put a layer of foam between the stand and the blocks to compensate for any difference.

What difference? It is supposed to sit on the edges.
 
I would also buils support for the top. You couls also finish the back in the blocks off setting them to allow room for the sump. Yhere will be space between the wall and the tank anyway. why not have the middle 16" of the blocks touch the wall and the tank not. that would be cheap and add that much more support.
 
Would this not cost more than building out of framing then sheeting..Cinder blocks aren't cheap unless you have left overs from something else...
 
cinder blocks are cheap, i just bought 12 for my tank (36"x36") and i think they were ~1.50 each. i decided to go cinder block because i spent 10 minutes going through the 2x4 pile and couldn't find anything i felt was straight enough. a wooden stand would have given alot more room under the tank, but i was already planning on having the sump next to it anyway (skimmer too tall for under, and i want skimmer to sit inside sump). i screwed&glued 2 sheets of 3/4" ply together, then put a layer of 1/2" foam on top of that (as per glass-cages' instructions). i got it 20% full last night when i noticed that i want to add a layer of foam between the block and plywood, so there is good distributed contact between them.
 
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