Clam Pests
- Thread starter KrisDM
- Start date
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
the most common pest i have heard about is the pyramid snails that will eat the mantle. certain types of wrasse will eat them, but the snails are mainly nocturnal and the wrasse mostly diurnal.
with a good strong QT procedure (you do QT everything wet, right?) you should be able to catch any parasite infestation and take the appropriate steps to rid it.
a common disease on clams is known as "Pinched Mantle Disease" or PMD. from what i can ascertain, the cause is still debated. it may actually be the result of a flatworm, not a pathogen, or it might not. it seems in many cases strict freshwater dipping regimens in temp/ph matched water have helped to "cure" it.
no bayer or iodine dips should be used on the clams.
with a good strong QT procedure (you do QT everything wet, right?) you should be able to catch any parasite infestation and take the appropriate steps to rid it.
a common disease on clams is known as "Pinched Mantle Disease" or PMD. from what i can ascertain, the cause is still debated. it may actually be the result of a flatworm, not a pathogen, or it might not. it seems in many cases strict freshwater dipping regimens in temp/ph matched water have helped to "cure" it.
no bayer or iodine dips should be used on the clams.
KrisDM
New member
Thanks for all the constructive inputs.
I have already setup a QT for the new clam.
Did read about pyramid snail, hence planning on a month long QT and some monitoring and scrubbing with toothbrush when/if needed. Also have a six line wrasse in the QT just in case. I am not sure if I have to do a freshwater dip on the new clam. If so is it straight up RODI water dip for a minute and back to QT tank?
The ordered it from Saltwaterfish.com & it is a ORA aqua cultured clam. SWF claims 100% pest free ORA clams, so I have a good 50/50 chance of having a pest free clam! wish me luck!
Thanks for all the advice!
I have already setup a QT for the new clam.
Did read about pyramid snail, hence planning on a month long QT and some monitoring and scrubbing with toothbrush when/if needed. Also have a six line wrasse in the QT just in case. I am not sure if I have to do a freshwater dip on the new clam. If so is it straight up RODI water dip for a minute and back to QT tank?
The ordered it from Saltwaterfish.com & it is a ORA aqua cultured clam. SWF claims 100% pest free ORA clams, so I have a good 50/50 chance of having a pest free clam! wish me luck!
Thanks for all the advice!
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
if you're going to fresh water dip it the water should be temperature and pH matched to the marine water the clam is used to. for RODI that would mean buffering the pH. the pH of RODI is usually right around 7.0 - 7.1, dead neutral. as opposed to the more common 8.0 - 8.4 (roughly) range of most saltwater tanks.
i did not freshwater dip my clam, and don't plan on freshwater dipping my new one, unless i have a reason to. i am generally against prophylactic treatments without having a verifiable cause (which i guess by definition would mean it wasn't prophylactic). that's just my opinion though, there are many who would disagree with me and in fact do advocate prophylactic treatment while in QT.
there are advantages and disadvantages to both schools of thought in that arena, so it's up to you to figure out what you think will work best for your tank.
out of curiosity, what kind of lights do you have on clam QT? i actually upgraded my QT tank lighting just for clams and SPS. it was originally a single bulb standard hood on a 20L tank, i got a 4 bulb T5HO with two daytime and two actinic lights in it.
my crocea will be coming out of QT this weekend as soon as i get my lazy butt up to detach it from the rock it is currently adhered to for the move to my DT. it's actually been in QT for almost 16 weeks now, mainly because i have been dreading trying to get it to release. ha.
best of luck, clams are awesome.
i did not freshwater dip my clam, and don't plan on freshwater dipping my new one, unless i have a reason to. i am generally against prophylactic treatments without having a verifiable cause (which i guess by definition would mean it wasn't prophylactic). that's just my opinion though, there are many who would disagree with me and in fact do advocate prophylactic treatment while in QT.
there are advantages and disadvantages to both schools of thought in that arena, so it's up to you to figure out what you think will work best for your tank.
out of curiosity, what kind of lights do you have on clam QT? i actually upgraded my QT tank lighting just for clams and SPS. it was originally a single bulb standard hood on a 20L tank, i got a 4 bulb T5HO with two daytime and two actinic lights in it.
my crocea will be coming out of QT this weekend as soon as i get my lazy butt up to detach it from the rock it is currently adhered to for the move to my DT. it's actually been in QT for almost 16 weeks now, mainly because i have been dreading trying to get it to release. ha.
best of luck, clams are awesome.
KrisDM
New member
I once saw a shrimp die in 10 sec due to salinity differences, so I am not a big fan of freshwater dips! I have Chinese LED over a shallow 12" tank, it puts a lot of light, thinking about it, should I slowly acclimate the clam to the lighting?
Also small Maxims attach to rocks in Frag tank too? How do I have to move them to display after QT, with the rocks it is attached or cut off the links? I was planning on 4 week QT, is that not sufficient?
Clams are beautiful! I am getting a black & white Maxima and it is my first clam!!
Also small Maxims attach to rocks in Frag tank too? How do I have to move them to display after QT, with the rocks it is attached or cut off the links? I was planning on 4 week QT, is that not sufficient?
Clams are beautiful! I am getting a black & white Maxima and it is my first clam!!
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
well not all animals tolerate freshwater dips equally well. fish and clams seem to do best given the right water parameters, but that's a whole other discussion.
i would definitely do some light acclimation. i light acclimate anything photosynthetic that i put in to any of my tanks. save plants in my freshwater tanks. there are lots of good resources on here and the internet in general with light acclimation tips.
i don't know about Maxims specifically, i would imagine they can attach if they were so inclined. i was planning on just moving the rock in to my display that my Crocea attached too, but realized too late it wouldn't really fit anywhere. from what i understand certain species of Tridacnid are more inclined to attach to rocks than others, mainly dependent on where the species prefer to live in the wild. for example the Crocea prefers rocks, where as i have read that Derasa clams prefer being in the sand bed. however i believe they are all capable of attaching to whatever they want if it pleases them.
one of the typical moving procedures for clams is to use a razor blade to cut the byssal threads (NOT the byssus itself, that's a very important distinction) and then moving it. however moliken suggested also trying freezing some tank water and using small pieces of the ice to more or less irritate the clam in to letting go, so i think i will be trying that first.
read up on moving the clam around, what you cut is very important. a slice to the byssus itself can lead to an infection and possible death.
for future clams i plan on using smaller pieces of rock that are more easily moved around.
i would definitely do some light acclimation. i light acclimate anything photosynthetic that i put in to any of my tanks. save plants in my freshwater tanks. there are lots of good resources on here and the internet in general with light acclimation tips.
i don't know about Maxims specifically, i would imagine they can attach if they were so inclined. i was planning on just moving the rock in to my display that my Crocea attached too, but realized too late it wouldn't really fit anywhere. from what i understand certain species of Tridacnid are more inclined to attach to rocks than others, mainly dependent on where the species prefer to live in the wild. for example the Crocea prefers rocks, where as i have read that Derasa clams prefer being in the sand bed. however i believe they are all capable of attaching to whatever they want if it pleases them.
one of the typical moving procedures for clams is to use a razor blade to cut the byssal threads (NOT the byssus itself, that's a very important distinction) and then moving it. however moliken suggested also trying freezing some tank water and using small pieces of the ice to more or less irritate the clam in to letting go, so i think i will be trying that first.
read up on moving the clam around, what you cut is very important. a slice to the byssus itself can lead to an infection and possible death.
for future clams i plan on using smaller pieces of rock that are more easily moved around.
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
in regards to QT i usually do everything for 8 - 10 weeks.
the length of QT typically depends on what you're trying to guard against. from my (admittedly limited) understanding of the life cycle timelines of most common fish parasites 8 - 10 weeks should be a long enough fallow period without a host to give a reasonably high probability of being clean.
i would also think that in that time frame if there is a problem with the clam like PMD or snails, i would notice it at some point and be able to act accordingly.
my Crocea has just been stuck in limbo for longer because i've been busy/lazy about moving him over, but i have another clam on the way so it's time to move him to the DT.
the length of QT typically depends on what you're trying to guard against. from my (admittedly limited) understanding of the life cycle timelines of most common fish parasites 8 - 10 weeks should be a long enough fallow period without a host to give a reasonably high probability of being clean.
i would also think that in that time frame if there is a problem with the clam like PMD or snails, i would notice it at some point and be able to act accordingly.
my Crocea has just been stuck in limbo for longer because i've been busy/lazy about moving him over, but i have another clam on the way so it's time to move him to the DT.
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
glad to help. definitely keep reading and keep learning and i'm sure your clam will do great.
i'll try to get some pics once i get him settled in.
i'll try to get some pics once i get him settled in.
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
ask and ye shall receive. his mantle is only about half extended in this picture because he was still ****ed off about being moved all over. he didn't want to stay on the original rock i had him on and kept doing somersaults on to the sand bed. so i rearranged a bunch of stuff in the tank. he seems to like this spot much better:
the ice trick that moliken suggested worked perfectly to get him to detach from the rock he was on in my QT tank. i pulled the rock out of the water, and crushed up a frozen block of tank water i had prepared. then i packed it around him and let it sit. every few minutes i would *gently* rock him back and forth to let the water percolate under him. eventually after about 5 - 10 minutes he began releasing his byssus and byssal threads. and eventually let them all go and was able to be removed from the rock.
excuse the poor quality, my htc one gets befuddled by the tank LED lights.
the new guy just showed up, and is acclimating to the QT tank now.
the ice trick that moliken suggested worked perfectly to get him to detach from the rock he was on in my QT tank. i pulled the rock out of the water, and crushed up a frozen block of tank water i had prepared. then i packed it around him and let it sit. every few minutes i would *gently* rock him back and forth to let the water percolate under him. eventually after about 5 - 10 minutes he began releasing his byssus and byssal threads. and eventually let them all go and was able to be removed from the rock.
excuse the poor quality, my htc one gets befuddled by the tank LED lights.
the new guy just showed up, and is acclimating to the QT tank now.
Last edited:
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
credit where credit is due sir, it was a very helpful tip! :dance:
KrisDM
New member
Well, I just got the clam in QT, thanks for all the great inputs guys! appreciate it.
Cant wait until, I get him in my DT, but I have to...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2335627
Cant wait until, I get him in my DT, but I have to...
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2335627
KrisDM
New member
ask and ye shall receive. his mantle is only about half extended in this picture because he was still ****ed off about being moved all over. he didn't want to stay on the original rock i had him on and kept doing somersaults on to the sand bed. so i rearranged a bunch of stuff in the tank. he seems to like this spot much better:
the ice trick that moliken suggested worked perfectly to get him to detach from the rock he was on in my QT tank. i pulled the rock out of the water, and crushed up a frozen block of tank water i had prepared. then i packed it around him and let it sit. every few minutes i would *gently* rock him back and forth to let the water percolate under him. eventually after about 5 - 10 minutes he began releasing his byssus and byssal threads. and eventually let them all go and was able to be removed from the rock.
excuse the poor quality, my htc one gets befuddled by the tank LED lights.
the new guy just showed up, and is acclimating to the QT tank now.
The Clam look awesome in his new home! Kudos, How big is he?
MondoBongo
Obligate Feeder Obsessed
thanks.
i'd say he's probably about average size for a crocea. about 4 - 5" in length. he has been getting good mantle extension now that he has settled in, and since i moved him front and center on his own rock has stayed put. hopefully he will attach and be happy as a... well happy as a clam.
the derasa is a big boy. probably about double the crocea's size more or less. he's been acclimating to QT quite nicely. diver's den packed him up well and after temp/salinity acclimating and a quick burping he was looking great.
i'll have to try to get some pictures of him at some point.
i'd say he's probably about average size for a crocea. about 4 - 5" in length. he has been getting good mantle extension now that he has settled in, and since i moved him front and center on his own rock has stayed put. hopefully he will attach and be happy as a... well happy as a clam.
the derasa is a big boy. probably about double the crocea's size more or less. he's been acclimating to QT quite nicely. diver's den packed him up well and after temp/salinity acclimating and a quick burping he was looking great.
i'll have to try to get some pictures of him at some point.
smtank
New member
Maxima do fine in the sand bed, as long as lighting is adequate. Crocea do better in the rock work IME.
Looks for a clam that has a mantle fully extended. Reacts quickly to shadow and movement, siphons are not gabbing, foot in intact, check bottom and between schutes for pyramids snail very thoroughly.
Looks for a clam that has a mantle fully extended. Reacts quickly to shadow and movement, siphons are not gabbing, foot in intact, check bottom and between schutes for pyramids snail very thoroughly.
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