Ted, give me a call at the shop's number Th/Fr or trek up here on a Saturday if this isn't enough to start with. I can't post it, I don't think, due to the UA. I've researched Dinos quite a bit and have a lot more info than I care to type up, but here are the cliff notes:
Page 100 is roughly post 2400. The good biology discussion starts somewhere around there and that's the train of thought I'd go with - out compete them with biodiversity.
Your sinus irritation could very likely be due to dinos/palytoxin. I've experienced it when working on affected tanks. Muted hearing as well. It should go without saying to ventilate the room when working with the tank if you think it may be irritating you. Carbon will absorb some of the toxin and should be used and changed frequently. Dinos aren't very toxic until you kill them. Then things snowball quickly if you aren't prepared.
Cease water changes. Replenishing trace elements adds fuel to the fire.
Peroxide 3% at 1 ml / 10 gal if your Dinos migrate to water column at night - water will appear reddish/rust colored. Dose at night. Some anemones and Lysmata sp shrimp don't like h2o2 but it'll be broken down in the water column if dinos are up and swimming around. Since your tank is so sterile, I personally would play with upping the dosage. I have dosed up to 1 ml / 3 gal and only stressed corals temporarily.
UV with VERY slow flow helps with migratory species.
Increasing biodiversity at the bottom of the food web is critically important. Dinos decimate good bacteria by out competing them and doing it quickly. Your tank looks pretty sterile. Is there a rock fuge somewhere? Or better a macro fuge? Slimy plants like Dragons Breath are useful as well.
I remember your strong feelings about vermetid snails or some tube worm a while back. You may have to let that go and add some freshly cured live rock. It will have organisms that will eat Dinos; others that will offer competition. Some Dinos are mixotrophic and can get their essentials from light or nutrients, so limiting nutrients is pointless. Yours likely are as well if they didn't respond to lights out, unless you forgot to cover the tank.
Alternatively, (this requires a scope or calculated risk) save skimmate and keep it similar to tank parameters - temp, aeration and sal. The strongest organisms in that soup will win. If the soup goes clear, likely good guys; If it stays dark, likely bad guys. If it goes clear, you can add it back to the tank (see above parentheses..). A few people in that thread reported great and sudden success by adding cilliates that attack Dinos that they cultured via skimmate. There is video proof as well, but they had a scope...
Gotta run for the night, but happy to help throw ideas at it if this doesn't help.
