murfman
New member
After exhausting research and no real luck on CLM, the way I want to do it, I decided to tackle it with the help of some freinds. I knew that I wanted to drill the tank and have the inlets and returns in the glass vs. over the top.
I had traded my Seahorse tank for a Dart and will use that for my circulating pump. I researched RC and ask.com as well as google. Most stites give you generalities on how a CLM works but no real details on how to build it.
I remember desandfort up in RMRC using a ton of ball valves to build a CLM so I pm'd him and got some pictures. (Thanks Del)
I plan on running 3 returns into the tank through a 1" bulkhead and then necked down to 3/4" and line locks. This will allow me to direct the water where it is needed most. The holes in the glass will be drilled with a 45mm diamond tipped hole saw. The inlets to the Dart are 2" FNPT fittings and the outlet 1 1/2" FNPT. I wanted to keep the intake as large as possible so I decided (with help from Calvin415, thanks Eric D.) to go with 3 intakes via 1" bulkheads. This allows for 3" of water to the pump intake vs. 2.25 output (3/4" x 3). This should preclude any cavitation in the pump.
FNPT shedule 40 fittings installed in the pump with teflon tape.
1 3/8" deep is the depth, (per side) in the fittings/ball valves/unions to allow for the connector piece to be inserted all the way to the stop. (I cut them 2 1/2" or so to make sure the fittings/ball valves/unions would touch) This is PVC that I had laying around. Make sure you primer and glue both pieces and rotate 90* when installing the pieces.
1 1/2" union so that the pump can be removed. Make sure you put the union between the pump and ball valve so you can remove the pump for maintenance. Notice how the union sits right on the fitting? I did this to save space and IMHO make the joint stronger as there is less play at the joint.
1 1/2" ball valve joined to the union with 1 3/8" pipe connector.
Both the intake and return were built the same way EXCEPT the 2" has a gradual 90* elbow at the pump fitting. I chose this so that the weight would be closer to the fitting and not 11" further out. (more leverage on the joint) Yes, I know the 2" is at an angle, I did this on purpose so that when I run my spa tube from the return to the manifold, less interference. The cradle is 2 x 4" scrap that was cut to support the pump and keep the fittings above from being pulled on by the weight. (This set up actually tips the pump over onto the 2" intake)
Here is the manifold I chose. This is the 1 1/2" return. I necked the 3 inlets down to 1" and will run 1" spa tube from there to the bulkhead 90* fittings on the tank. Those pix are to follow, once I get everything installed.
This is the return manifold MOCKED up on the ball valve, it is not really going there but higher up on the tank. One of my requirements was that everything fit under the stand and to be able to get the stand as close to the wall as possible.
More to follow in a couple of weeks......
I had traded my Seahorse tank for a Dart and will use that for my circulating pump. I researched RC and ask.com as well as google. Most stites give you generalities on how a CLM works but no real details on how to build it.
I remember desandfort up in RMRC using a ton of ball valves to build a CLM so I pm'd him and got some pictures. (Thanks Del)
I plan on running 3 returns into the tank through a 1" bulkhead and then necked down to 3/4" and line locks. This will allow me to direct the water where it is needed most. The holes in the glass will be drilled with a 45mm diamond tipped hole saw. The inlets to the Dart are 2" FNPT fittings and the outlet 1 1/2" FNPT. I wanted to keep the intake as large as possible so I decided (with help from Calvin415, thanks Eric D.) to go with 3 intakes via 1" bulkheads. This allows for 3" of water to the pump intake vs. 2.25 output (3/4" x 3). This should preclude any cavitation in the pump.
FNPT shedule 40 fittings installed in the pump with teflon tape.
1 3/8" deep is the depth, (per side) in the fittings/ball valves/unions to allow for the connector piece to be inserted all the way to the stop. (I cut them 2 1/2" or so to make sure the fittings/ball valves/unions would touch) This is PVC that I had laying around. Make sure you primer and glue both pieces and rotate 90* when installing the pieces.
1 1/2" union so that the pump can be removed. Make sure you put the union between the pump and ball valve so you can remove the pump for maintenance. Notice how the union sits right on the fitting? I did this to save space and IMHO make the joint stronger as there is less play at the joint.
1 1/2" ball valve joined to the union with 1 3/8" pipe connector.
Both the intake and return were built the same way EXCEPT the 2" has a gradual 90* elbow at the pump fitting. I chose this so that the weight would be closer to the fitting and not 11" further out. (more leverage on the joint) Yes, I know the 2" is at an angle, I did this on purpose so that when I run my spa tube from the return to the manifold, less interference. The cradle is 2 x 4" scrap that was cut to support the pump and keep the fittings above from being pulled on by the weight. (This set up actually tips the pump over onto the 2" intake)
Here is the manifold I chose. This is the 1 1/2" return. I necked the 3 inlets down to 1" and will run 1" spa tube from there to the bulkhead 90* fittings on the tank. Those pix are to follow, once I get everything installed.
This is the return manifold MOCKED up on the ball valve, it is not really going there but higher up on the tank. One of my requirements was that everything fit under the stand and to be able to get the stand as close to the wall as possible.
More to follow in a couple of weeks......
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