Did you cure the rock in the tank? Waterkeeper, who knows his tuff, wrote this in a seperate thread:
"Amanda did the in-the-tank LR curing method that explains the cloudy water syndrome. Usually there is little organic material, often called Dissolved Organic Material (DOM), in the water column. That means there is little for free swimming "bugs" to eat, so their population is quite low. Following a cycle the water column contains a regular smorgasbord of stuff for bacteria to eat. And eat they do.
WarningThose under 18 (21 in some states) may want to skip the next section as it contains graphic content!!!!
The bacteria in the water column, with plenty to eat, go on a rampage of wanton mitosis. When these little critters get plenty of food, population control goes right out the window. Seeming overnight the water takes on a milky white to gray appearance brought on by this shameless orgy . Just as the bacteria hit their peak, the protozoan's in the tank also get real randy. In full public view they conjugate and reproduce to record numbers but at the expense of the sex crazed bacteria in the tank who these protozoan's now call "dinner". Yes folks it is a sordid affair.
This bacteria bloom happens in all cycles. If you cure your LR outside the tank it may happen but you won't see it like you would in a tank where the LR is cured. The bacteria/protozoan bloom tends to clear up as fast as it appears as these free-swimming "bugs" really go to town and consume all the food PDQ. Once done, they die off only to become food for ensuing organisms.
One can speed up the removal of these bacteria and protozoans by using a polishing filter. One of the handiest items one can have in their bag of tank maintenance items is a canister filter. These fairly inexpensive filters serve in so many handy fashions. With a bacteria bloom you can use a sub-micron filter in them to remove the bacteria, usually in a matter of hours. Then you can replace the sub-micron filter with some activated carbon and remove much of the organic material left behind. With a 200 gph, hang-on canister filter costing less than $50 you really want to have one when you can afford it. When not being used on your main tank it can be used on a quarantine or hospital tank to provide circulation. The sub-micron filters even have a pore size small enough to remove the free swimming stages of parasites such as ich and velvet. A real handy item to have.
The main downside of a bacteria bloom is the little buggers use up tons of oxygen during their heyday. With fish or coral in a tank you want to get them out as fast as possible. If your tank doesn't have livestock then you can wait for it to take its natural course. You also want to check pH and alkalinity after a bacteria bloom. Because these blooms tend to be somewhat acidic in nature you may need to correct the pH using the washing soda additive I mentioned earlier in this thread."
You can read his entire thread, if you have a week or so to spare, here:
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=239848
Great thread with lots of good info.
