clown tanks

[president89]

Is there an advantage other than the 1 gallon difference between the 29g and 30g standard glass tank sizes. The 30g is longer, but the 29G is taller.

My goal is to setup 3 clown tanks plumbed into a single sump. I know the 29G is more readily available. I'm not skimping on equiptment, but I'd like to save money on the tanks themselves if I can. These really aren't for display. I know I can get my hands on the 29g easier and cheaper.

Also, should I go with a single sump system? Should I use a skimmer or mechanical filtration like a HOB traditional filter. I've read wilkerson's book and she says sumps and skimmers aren't necessary for FO clown tanks. However, the water changes, heating and skimming could all be hidden and consolidated. I know there is a risk of spreading diseases to all tanks. I guess I just can't make up my mind!

 

[WDLV]

More swimming room (horizontal) is always nice. I like the 33 long if volume is the limiting factor over dimentions. You can do more with it in terms of decor and swimming space.

Sticking within the parameters you listed I would do the 30 gallon with three separate HOB filters. If it were me I would run a Whisper EX 45 and two Maxijet 1200 on each tank to keep detritus suspended. The reason being is that it will be far easier to maintain and less chance of spreading disease throughout all three systems.
If you're planning to breed you might just as well construct a rack system and add a fourth tank.
This is my last project which I'm now scrapping in favor of show quality tanks and fewer tanks to manage.

 

[president89]

What size tanks are those in your picture? I'm going to have to keep thinking about this. The rack setup is what I was planning. It would be nice to have 1 or 2 heaters running the whole system and a single skimmer/filter, but I do risk spread of disease. HMMM.

30G seem really big for two tiny clownfish all by themselves. I get it though, the male is going to need some space for retreat when his mate gets feisty.

 

[WDLV]

10 gallons and a 40 breeder. They are OK for percula and skunk complexes. For tomato, clarkii and saddleback complexes you will want something larger to keep them comfortable. You will want to paint three sides and the bottom black to make them more comfortable and keep them from seeing each other. I use rust-olium or another oil based paint. It sticks better long term than latex.
I ran this rack interconnected until disease took hold and killed a few of my fish. Now I run them individually with a 50W heater, a Whisper EX45 and a glass thermometer. It's a lot easier and inexpensive to treat one pair than 12 pairs. The ten gallons only cost $50-$60 for each setup. The 30s wouldn't be much more. I got most of my filters and heaters online, but this stuff can be had at PETCO.
I'm moving to 45 gallon cubes so I can run reefs again. I thing using those 30s is a great idea that you can use for any size clown you want to keep. Also keep in mind that you will want to stick with tanks that have the same footprint. My stand was originally designed so that I could use 30 breeders or 40 breeders and a 60"x18" baffled tank that I originally had on the top rack.
If you stick with one size it will be easy to have interchangeable parts, tanks, filter media etc.

 

[president89]

The rack system is what I'm shooting for. I see you have boards going length ways which hold up the tanks.. how did you secure those boards that are going front to back on that stand? It seems like all the weight of the tanks are on those little cross boards See this picture

 

[WDLV]

Nope. Each 2x6 is supported by two carriage bolts at the points where they intersect with the 4x4s. The shorter 2x6s (on the sides) just hold the front and back together. It only really has to carry about 150Lbs. So I think it's really overbuilt.

 

[president89]

Are those ex45's a little overkill on the 10G tanks? What kind of heaters are you using? I've heard horror stories on heaters. It doesn't seem like they sell 50w high quality heaters.. only 100+. I'm still mapping out my tanks. I just grabbed 3 ten gallons and a 15 Gallon. I have an Unused workbench, that I think I'm going to use to hold these tanks. It's nice and sturdy, and there's a lower portion if I wanted to house a few more thanks, or install a sump, or simple storage. Now to find covers for the tanks and lighting.. I was thinking of hitting Homedepot and grab some acrylic and make lids for the tanks. Probably much cheaper than buying versa tops.

 

[WDLV]

Are those ex45's a little overkill on the 10G tanks?

No. Any less and you'll find detritus building up on the bottom of the tank. Not to mention, if you're trying to breed clowns, you will have quite a bioload. The one thing bad I have to say about these filters is that they make lousy quarrantine tank filters because they use carbon impregnated filter media. So, they're no good for medications. For quarrantine tanks I currently use the old Whisper 40s. The positive being that you can run the media with or without carbon. The problem there is that the product is discontinued. It won't be long before the filter media is unavailable. The EX45 is great for being readily available and works well for standardization. I think it wouldn't be a stretch to fabricate a filter cartridge insert out of media found at the local Michael's or AC Moore crafts store. Even the white Scotch Brite pads would probably do.
The other thing I like about these filters is that they have a little bio-filter integrated into them. I really don't know if is does a darn thing or if it's just a clever gimmick. Either way, they work. The cartridges are good for up to 3-4 months (despite what the little time strips dictate.)

What kind of heaters are you using? I've heard horror stories on heaters. It doesn't seem like they sell 50w high quality heaters.. only 100+.

The only description I have is that they say "Thermo." It seems to be a basig generic brand. Possibly even produced by some HD subsidiary. I've had two "good" heaters fail in less than half the time I've had these. The thing i like best is if I forget to unplug them while doing a major WC, they sense the excessive heat and shut themselves off.

I'm still mapping out my tanks. I just grabbed 3 ten gallons and a 15 Gallon. I have an Unused workbench, that I think I'm going to use to hold these tanks. It's nice and sturdy, and there's a lower portion if I wanted to house a few more thanks, or install a sump, or simple storage. Now to find covers for the tanks and lighting.. I was thinking of hitting Homedepot and grab some acrylic and make lids for the tanks. Probably much cheaper than buying versa tops.

I use "egg crate" lighting grid to make my tops. All I need are a pair of diagonal cutting pliars or my Gerber to size them the way I want. No power tools are necessary, they "breathe," and they don't grow algae from evaporative condensation.

 

[president89]

I was looking up while leaving petco today in an elevator.. and i saw that lighting GRID.. and thought the same thing. I always liked having a nearly sealed top, with just an opening at the filter. I hate when you get salt creep on your wall. But that eggcrate would be a cost saver. HOw do you feed the fish though, do you have to keep picking up the eggcrate each time? The fish probably don't like jumping into the edges of that crate do they?

 

[WDLV]

I lift the lid for feeding except when I'm in a hurry. Pellet is no problem to drop in through the slats.

If you don't ever let your tank evap more than about 1/2" you won't have to worry about salt creep. I only get that when I let the evap go too long and the filter return starts to spash a bit.

Jumping has not really been much of an issue and to be frank, I don't mind if they get a bit of a whack in the head if it keeps me from finding $350 worth of fish jerkey on the floor after a business trip.

 

[president89]

Agreed. Thanks for all the info. Now to get the filters and the heaters ordered up. FO tanks really only require PH ammonia, nitrite and Nitrate Tests correct? Man I wish salifert would go on sale. Nothing like paying $80 for test kits. Is salifert overkill for FO tanks? I know everyone recommends them for reef setups because of their high quality. I always feel like you only use the Nitrite and Ammonia kits for cycling, and then as long as you don't let the nitrates get out of control, you never see the ammonia and nitrite again. I know that if nitrates get too high, then the bacteria won't be able to break down the ammonia and nitrites as well and those will spike.

 

[WDLV]

I don't generally test unless I detect a problem. If that's the case I will buy a test kit. You know it will cycle. You know you have a hardy fish. You do the math and come up with the answer that best suits YOUR needs.

 

[president89]

I went with the salifert tests.. NH4, No2 No3, and ph. I just know I hated those cheap tests that have 3 parts.. and the colors aren't definitive on the charts. Thanks again for your input.

 

[WDLV]

My pleasure. Best of luck with the project!

 

[president89]

I went to HD and lowes and couldn't find any of that light grating. Where did you find yours?

 

[WDLV]

The HD here keeps it in lumber|building materials.

 

[president89]

I'm going to head there and see what I find.

Where did you find your pairs. I found a site that seems to sell all sorts of breeding pairs. Oceanproaquatics.

 

[president89]

Question on the Grid. Is it plastic or metal?

 

[WDLV]

My pairs were mostly paired by me and came from on line vendors and LFS all over the country.
The grid is plastic. Most people use white but I see no reason one couldn't use the silvery looking stuff.

 

[president89]

I grabbed some today. all they had was some busted pieces. I took them since as far as length goes, I would have had to cut the broken piece off anyways. THanks for the help. I've got more than a month ahead of me before I even think about putting anything in the tank.

My next issue is going to be the actual lighting. I can't really hang lights over the bench I have setup. I might just get some acrylic/lexan from HD and lay a piece the same width as my strip light. IF i had build a stand, I could have mounted the lights on the bottom of the shelf above the tanks. Darn! Maybe I"ll make a small frame out of 2x4's just so I can hang a shoplight.

As far as cycling goes.. if I'm doing just a barebottom tank with a HOB filter. I don't need to introduce anything else but a piece of shrimp to add amonnia correct? The bacteria show up by themselves.