Clownfish stopped eating during TT

[Jersh]

I bought a bonded pair of snowflake clownfish off of DD and a blue reef chromis. I'm putting all of them through TT right now, and plan on moving them into final QT for two weeks, to treat with Prazi. The next, and last, transfer to final QT is tomorrow morning.

I have been using prime during each stay and have tested for ammonia with redsea test kits throughout the process and haven't seen any trace of ammonia yet. I have been raising the SG by one thousandth every stay, (1.020-1.021-1.022 Etc.) to prepare for the 1.025 of my DT. The temperature has been matched with each transfer.

The problem I'm having is that the female, bigger of the two, clownfish has stopped eating and is not as active these last 2 days. She has stringy white poo and is the only of the fish to have this. Visually, this is the only thing I noticed and started at the same time she stopped eating. As far as swimming, she just sometimes tilts to one side or drifts slightly vertical for a second before righting herself. This started the morning of the last transfer. I fed the fish before the transfer and she didn't eat, I noticed the white stringy poo, and seemed to just be swimming around slowly. All 3 fish were eating from day one and the other clown and the chromis are still eating and swimming just fine.

What do you guys think? I'm new to the hobby and TT, but I read a lot before I started and think I'm doing everything in the right way.

 

[Newsmyrna80]

Sounds like an internal parasite. I would try something like metro in the food but if she's not eating then she needs to be in a bath of metro. Are you planning on quarantining after TT or moving right into the main?

 

[HumbleFish]

She has stringy white poo and is the only of the fish to have this.

This is a symptom of flukes or sometimes intestinal parasites. Best bet is to begin Prazipro treatment immediately after doing the final transfer tomorrow. 5-6 days later do a 25% WC and dose Prazi again.

 

[Jersh]

I plan on starting with Prazi tomorrow, when I transfer to the permanent QT. How long before I should start worrying about the fish not eating? I'm going to try to soak some frozen Mysis in garlic right before transfer tomorrow.

Should I be considering a FW dip, in case it is flukes?

Should I expect to see signs of improvement after the first round of Prazi?

 

[Jersh]

Sounds like an internal parasite. I would try something like metro in the food but if she's not eating then she needs to be in a bath of metro. Are you planning on quarantining after TT or moving right into the main?

I do plan on quarantining after TT. I don't have local access to Metro, but I could order it online. I've read conflicting threads about the effectiveness of Metro vs Prazi. I plan on using the Prazi, because that is what I have on hand. Is there that big of a difference between Prazi and Metro in your opinion?

 

[DasCamel]

Intestinal metro is better. I would do both regardless.

 

[HumbleFish]

Should I be considering a FW dip, in case it is flukes?

This is an excellent idea to determine whether you are dealing with flukes or something else, like intestinal parasites. If the fish has flukes, little white things should fall out/off the fish at around the 2-3 min mark. You can also check the bucket afterwards with a flashlight to see if any have settled on the bottom (black/dark bucket works best for this). If it's intestinal parasites (or something else), you won't see anything by giving a FW dip.

Prazipro is the weapon of choice for flukes; for intestinal, it's metronidazole.

 

[Jersh]

Update. I got her to eat the day before transfer to final QT, with a drop of garlic on some frozen mysis. I started treatment with Prazi on the first day after TT. I plan on doing a 25% water change on the 5th morning and re-dosing Prazi.

I didn't do a FW dip yet. I wanted to do some reading up on it before I decided to do it. Should I wait on doing the FW dip until I'm done with the Prazi treatment? Should I do it on the 4th day to see if it is flukes? Would it be beneficial to the fish or just add unnecessary stress?

Calling around, I couldn't find any LFS that carried Metro, in case it is an intestinal parasite. I ordered some Metro online. It should arrive next Monday.

 

[HumbleFish]

Now that you've started Prazi, then IMO there's no reason to FW dip her until maybe a week or so after you re-dose. This would confirm whether or not flukes are still present. FWIW; Prazipro claims to also kill intestinal parasites. But from my experience, this is not the case - which is why you have to use metro if you suspect intestinal.

 

[snorvich]

Now that you've started Prazi, then IMO there's no reason to FW dip her until maybe a week or so after you re-dose. This would confirm whether or not flukes are still present. FWIW; Prazipro claims to also kill intestinal parasites. But from my experience, this is not the case - which is why you have to use metro if you suspect intestinal.

I agree.

 

[Jersh]

Day 3 into Prazi treatment and the female clown is looking even worse. Still has stringy poo, not eating, breathing heavy, and will sometimes drift for 5 to 10 seconds before righting herself.

Now, the chromis also has stringy poo, stopped eating, and isn't coming out of one of the ceramic caves.

The only healthy and eating fish, is the male clownfish.

I checked for ammonia today and its in between .2 and 0. I'm sucking up access food after I feed in the morning. The tank is aerated.

Is there anything else I should do, besides waiting and finishing up this and the next round of Prazi?

 

[HumbleFish]

Day 3 into Prazi treatment and the female clown is looking even worse. Still has stringy poo, not eating, breathing heavy, and will sometimes drift for 5 to 10 seconds before righting herself.

Now, the chromis also has stringy poo, stopped eating, and isn't coming out of one of the ceramic caves.

This suggests you are dealing with intestinal parasites (need metronidazole ), or have encountered a Prazi resistant strain of flukes (would need to administer formalin baths). I would perform a 5 min FW dip to determine which it is. It sounds as though the chromis would be most able to withstand it, while the female clown may be in most need of it. Maybe dip the chromis first and report back. Remember, you are looking for tiny white worms to fall out and settle to the bottom.

I checked for ammonia today and its in between .2 and 0. I'm sucking up access food after I feed in the morning. The tank is aerated.

ANY detectable ammonia is a problem, and is damaging your fish's gills/kidneys.

 

[Jersh]

I'll do a FW dip before I leave for work and report back.

I bought the Red Sea test kits, because they were supposed to be better than the average. It is lime green it shows up a little better than what I've seen before, which made me think it might be somewhere in between .2 and 0. I really hope that water test kits take a big technological leap in my lifetime.

 

[Jersh]

Before work yesterday, I gave the chromis a FW dip and there were some small white spots at the bottom of the bucket. So, it looks like flukes. Should I just wait out the Prazi with the female clown, or try to get her some relief with a FW dip?

 

[HumbleFish]

Before work yesterday, I gave the chromis a FW dip and there were some small white spots at the bottom of the bucket. So, it looks like flukes. Should I just wait out the Prazi with the female clown, or try to get her some relief with a FW dip?

I would FW dip both the clowns for immediate relief. Moving forward, it looks as though you may have encountered a Prazi resistant strain of flukes. I would PM Newsmyrna80 for further advice. She has dealt with and successfully treated Prazi resistant flukes before. I have no actual experience doing that.