Color lose

I do a 20% water change every two weeks and I still hair algae and the GFO was suppose to keep the phosphates down. But I still have a small problem. That is why I am using it

I had hair Algae in all my Tanks without Tangs and Massive Weekly Water Changes did absolutly nothing.

Tell you what did take care of the Hair Algae - GFO did.
 
I had hair Algae in all my Tanks without Tangs and Massive Weekly Water Changes did absolutly nothing.

Tell you what did take care of the Hair Algae - GFO did.

No tangs, lots of food and light = hair algae.
Specially if no skimmer, like you've mentioned before about your zoa tank.

Massive water changes aren't good to any system, by the way.
That shouldn't be the way to go.

As I've sid before, if that is the way you want to do business, just continue.
I'm glad that works for you. :)

Grandis.
 
We'll a update on my Zoas color is back and starting to grow again. Had to move them to near the bottom of the tank. Thanks for everyone's help and advise.
 

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The problem there is that if you make a mistake, while getting used to it, you can damage the corals and some could die in the process. That will depend on the species as many say.

Besides, if you really want to spend the money on the GFO instead corals, please go ahead. Do the math and see how much you'll spend a year, instead buying the corals. You would save more than pennies, that's for sure!! :)

Water changes are a must anyways, part of a good maintenance schedule, not only to export nutrients, as we know...

If you target feed, the organisms will ingest what they need, not the skimmer.

Macro algae isn't the way to go either!! I do not recommend it. Waste of time IMO!

Skimmer is a must in the long run!

GAC isn't a must, but small amounts will polish your water and help with organics, keeping your spectrum fairly constant, besides bulb age. GAC isn't directed to remove phosphates only, like GFO! Different application!

It really comes down to what you want to do and the risk you want to take to learn.
You can have all that running in your system and still find a balance.
Again, read the link and decide for yourself!
Don't forget to read the article too!

Don't let people try to convince you what's the best for your system!
If you're already using it and like it, why change?
Good luck!
:thumbsup:

Grandis.

Since you do not like GFO what are your Thought on Liquid Phosphate Remover (Phosphat-E) by Brightwell Aquatics?

My LFS swears by it and tries to get every customer with Phosphate Problems to buy it.

They say it is very safe and use it in their store too.
 
Since you do not like GFO what are your Thought on Liquid Phosphate Remover (Phosphat-E) by Brightwell Aquatics?

My LFS swears by it and tries to get every customer with Phosphate Problems to buy it.

They say it is very safe and use it in their store too.

I've heard lots of complains about GFO, but never herd anything about Phosphate-E yet. It should eliminate "reactive phosphates".
Please take a look at the page:
http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/phosphat-et.php

I welcome you to talk more about the product with your LFS and tell us more, specially if you're willing to try that out.
Liquid products tend to act faster than others.
Please let us know...

Grandis.
 
I've heard lots of complains about GFO, but never herd anything about Phosphate-E yet. It should eliminate "reactive phosphates".
Please take a look at the page:
http://brightwellaquatics.com/products/phosphat-et.php

I welcome you to talk more about the product with your LFS and tell us more, specially if you're willing to try that out.
Liquid products tend to act faster than others.
Please let us know...

Grandis.

I just thought that it was worse than GFO since it immediatly Drops Phosphate to 0.0 whereas GFO takes time to get it down to 0.

After all they say nothing good in this Hobby happens Quickly.
 
I would think the "reactive phosphates" they are talking about wouldn't be "total phosphates".
They have more info on their page:
"Phosphāt-E enables a quick solution to elevated phosphate concentrations by binding the reactive (“free”) form of the molecule and making it unavailable for biological uptake."
But wait!!!
They also say:
"The resultant inert phosphate compound (a particulate) may then be permanently removed from the system via mechanical filtration and/or protein skimming."

So keep in mind that the particulate bound reactive phosphate needs to be mechanically removed from the system by mechanical filtration or via skimmer.

That said, it should be used with caution!! Just like ANY other product!!!!
The product is basically directly affecting those "reactive phosphates" and it will need the help to be exported.

Not exactly everything in this hobby that is "quick" is "bad"!
Some products do act fast, for example Calcium chloride additives. They will do more good than harm if in the right amount, and if administrated in the right time. They are used as a quick remedy, or to maintain Ca levels. Doesn't mean that's a bad product or that it does any harm because it brings Ca levels faster than other products.

I believe that the fact the GFO removes phosphates fast from the system isn't the only problem with their use. Please read the article (link below) and you'll see the biological effects due to the different things that happens in the system. That way, you can decide for yourself what you want to try.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/

Again, ask the LFS first and try to get all the info from them about the Phosphat-E.
Perhaps they could draw a comparison picture between GFO and the Phosphat-E?

Personally, I'm not a great fan of Brightwell Aquatics. I see little to no apparent changes in most products I've tried from them for more than 2 years. But that is just me. Everyone is different.

Would I use Phosphat-E? Perhaps I could try, if I had problems with phosphates and couldn't solve with traditional methods. Same with GFO.
Good luck!

I do not want people to think I'm against phosphate removal through any of the methods mentioned here, please. :deadhorse1:
I just think that if we can avoid methods that could harm the system, why not?

Grandis.
 
I would think the "reactive phosphates" they are talking about wouldn't be "total phosphates".
They have more info on their page:
"Phosphāt-E enables a quick solution to elevated phosphate concentrations by binding the reactive (“free”) form of the molecule and making it unavailable for biological uptake."
But wait!!!
They also say:
"The resultant inert phosphate compound (a particulate) may then be permanently removed from the system via mechanical filtration and/or protein skimming."

So keep in mind that the particulate bound reactive phosphate needs to be mechanically removed from the system by mechanical filtration or via skimmer.

That said, it should be used with caution!! Just like ANY other product!!!!
The product is basically directly affecting those "reactive phosphates" and it will need the help to be exported.

Not exactly everything in this hobby that is "quick" is "bad"!
Some products do act fast, for example Calcium chloride additives. They will do more good than harm if in the right amount, and if administrated in the right time. They are used as a quick remedy, or to maintain Ca levels. Doesn't mean that's a bad product or that it does any harm because it brings Ca levels faster than other products.

I believe that the fact the GFO removes phosphates fast from the system isn't the only problem with their use. Please read the article (link below) and you'll see the biological effects due to the different things that happens in the system. That way, you can decide for yourself what you want to try.

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-11/rhf/

Again, ask the LFS first and try to get all the info from them about the Phosphat-E.
Perhaps they could draw a comparison picture between GFO and the Phosphat-E?

Personally, I'm not a great fan of Brightwell Aquatics. I see little to no apparent changes in most products I've tried from them for more than 2 years. But that is just me. Everyone is different.

Would I use Phosphat-E? Perhaps I could try, if I had problems with phosphates and couldn't solve with traditional methods. Same with GFO.
Good luck!

I do not want people to think I'm against phosphate removal through any of the methods mentioned here, please. :deadhorse1:
I just think that if we can avoid methods that could harm the system, why not?

Grandis.

What Brand do you like over Brightwell?

If you go from a Phosphate of say 2.0 PPM (not 0.02 PPM) to 0.0 instantly don't you think that that would be Stressful on the Corals?
 
What Brand do you like over Brightwell?
Depends on what specific product you're talking about.
I was referring to my own experiences with my tank in particular.


If you go from a Phosphate of say 2.0 PPM (not 0.02 PPM) to 0.0 instantly don't you think that that would be Stressful on the Corals?
Of course! That is true for any product reducing phosphates.

Grandis.
 
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