Complete DIY Custom 144x15x15
- Thread starter calvin415
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tigerarmy40
New member
clear pvc will def look bad after some time...are you planning on changning it out every couple of weeks? with two sets you could have one soak in a vinigar bath while one is running?
calvin415
New member
The drawing isn't perfect... 
The female which the clear male adapter will screw into will sit flush with the drywall.
Basically, the top of this fitting will be the top of the stand/drywall.
I'm also reducing the pipe to 3/4" ID from 1" ID to increase the velocity of the flow since it's a pressure rated pump.
The female which the clear male adapter will screw into will sit flush with the drywall.
Basically, the top of this fitting will be the top of the stand/drywall.
I'm also reducing the pipe to 3/4" ID from 1" ID to increase the velocity of the flow since it's a pressure rated pump.
NanoReefWanabe
Active member
i see no reason not to glue the upper fittings..your gonna get salt creep and possibly water out of them behind a pressure rated pump. you can buy a pipe snake that will fish through the 90's to keep it clean...but i would be worried about scratching the pipe..with the union below the stand you will only have to turn the lower pipe anyway...dont forget your anti siphon holes in it too
i would have used white PVC and painted it red or something in heavy contrast/ or complimentary to the decor...but i kinda like the clean industrial "loft" appearance of painted pipes...
i would have used white PVC and painted it red or something in heavy contrast/ or complimentary to the decor...but i kinda like the clean industrial "loft" appearance of painted pipes...
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803979#post13803979 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Are any of my posts not showing up? I feel like I keep saying the same thing...
Yes, I plan to have multiple sets so I can rotate them keeping them looking clean.
I mean, it's on the same page, you don't even have to read a lot to find it...
For a while I thought I was reading echos
echos
echos
echos
echos
:rolleye1:
tigerarmy40
New member
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13803979#post13803979 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
Are any of my posts not showing up? I feel like I keep saying the same thing...
Yes, I plan to have multiple sets so I can rotate them keeping them looking clean.
I mean, it's on the same page, you don't even have to read a lot to find it...
my bad...
therealbobbyt
New member
forgive the newbies. for they do not know what they repeat.....
just dave
11th in '11
My
.
The clear PVC I've used is not clear. It actually has blue tint to it and does not have the polished look of acrylic and as it is extruded it has the lines commonly associated with that process. I think it kinda looks cheap. The glued joints will be visible and discolor differently. I don't know how it will react being exposed to your lighting as I've never used where that was an issue but it is more brittle compared to regular PVC and I imagine the exposure to your lights would make it worse over time. It does scratch easily and while you may keep it clean an inevitable hazing will occur especially on the inside as the water pumps particulate matter through it. Given your criteria I would do one of two things.
Bend some regular PVC to get the form you're after and paint it a white to match your trim or a contrasting color like black. You can pack the pipe with sand to keep it from collapsing during the bending process but I've never been able to achieve a visibly uniform curve. Always looked too organic to me.
The other is to use 1" pipe and 3/4" fittings and join them by butting them together instead of the socket joints. I've done this with PVC cement and it has worked fine and joints were plenty strong. You could sand all the seams and raised lettering from the fittings and after the parts were set and cured form the attachment process you could give it a final sanding to smooth the joint lines and paint the pipe the color of your choice and it would look like a continuous molded piece. You might could use Weld-On 40 but I've never used it for PVC to PVC. I've used it for PVC to acrylic but I didn't get the impression that it was actually softening the material like PVC cement does and I don't know if the minimal contact it would have would be strong enough. Though you could bevel the outside of the joints so that when they were butted together they formed a shallow V and after they were attached together use 40 to fill in the V and once cured sand it flush and this would give you a greater contact area.
If you went the black route , which I think would look good because I noticed some black furniture in the room and it definitely would not look like you were trying to hide it but the opposite, I would use black PVC and still paint it black to cover the sanding and glue marks. This would give you some added visible protection should something scrape the paint as it would still be black underneath.
The clear PVC I've used is not clear. It actually has blue tint to it and does not have the polished look of acrylic and as it is extruded it has the lines commonly associated with that process. I think it kinda looks cheap. The glued joints will be visible and discolor differently. I don't know how it will react being exposed to your lighting as I've never used where that was an issue but it is more brittle compared to regular PVC and I imagine the exposure to your lights would make it worse over time. It does scratch easily and while you may keep it clean an inevitable hazing will occur especially on the inside as the water pumps particulate matter through it. Given your criteria I would do one of two things.
Bend some regular PVC to get the form you're after and paint it a white to match your trim or a contrasting color like black. You can pack the pipe with sand to keep it from collapsing during the bending process but I've never been able to achieve a visibly uniform curve. Always looked too organic to me.
The other is to use 1" pipe and 3/4" fittings and join them by butting them together instead of the socket joints. I've done this with PVC cement and it has worked fine and joints were plenty strong. You could sand all the seams and raised lettering from the fittings and after the parts were set and cured form the attachment process you could give it a final sanding to smooth the joint lines and paint the pipe the color of your choice and it would look like a continuous molded piece. You might could use Weld-On 40 but I've never used it for PVC to PVC. I've used it for PVC to acrylic but I didn't get the impression that it was actually softening the material like PVC cement does and I don't know if the minimal contact it would have would be strong enough. Though you could bevel the outside of the joints so that when they were butted together they formed a shallow V and after they were attached together use 40 to fill in the V and once cured sand it flush and this would give you a greater contact area.
If you went the black route , which I think would look good because I noticed some black furniture in the room and it definitely would not look like you were trying to hide it but the opposite, I would use black PVC and still paint it black to cover the sanding and glue marks. This would give you some added visible protection should something scrape the paint as it would still be black underneath.
EnglishRebel
Retired Rebel Reefer
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13805122#post13805122 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by calvin415
I've had a number of issues with the paste, I'll probably never use it again.I love the tape and never had a problem with it. As long as the clear will thread into white without issue.
I totally agree on that. Although teflon paste is tremendous at sealing pipes, if you use too much it will get everywhere your water does and believe me it's a PITA to get off. I used some on my bathroom remodel and didn't have one leak. BUT, the stuff doesn't harden and I got it all over my hands and everything I touched. I wiped off the excess and then used the cloth to wipe something else and got it everywhere :mad2: :mad2:
I took of the faucet strainers after a few days and it took me forever to get that stuff off with water. Now maybe paint thinner would clean it off but I wouldn't want that anywhere near my tank.
Just my 2c worth.
I would almost say paint it chrome and try and make it look like a faucet.
you cant make it dissapear without some major work, and the clear thing will be a PINA to keep clean.
so why not make it look like it belongs there? Look at the decore of the room, then hit up HD or lowes and find a faucet that matches and try and make it look similar.
you cant make it dissapear without some major work, and the clear thing will be a PINA to keep clean.
so why not make it look like it belongs there? Look at the decore of the room, then hit up HD or lowes and find a faucet that matches and try and make it look similar.
Hopeful Reefer
Premium Member
Talk about DIY!!
That is an idea I actually like...cool thought!!casper5096
New member
Now that is truly a unique idea :thumbsup:.
calvin415
New member
The upper fittings will be glued... ??? The only fitting not glued will be the elbow into the tank and that is so I can remove the pipe for maintenance. With the vingar baths, is shouldn't require much scrubbing if any so scratches should be minimal if at all. Anti siphon holes won't be needed with this approach, it will kill the syphon as soon as the top of the 90 is exposed which will only be about 1/2" of water I think (sump can handle lots more).
Red? Contrast or clash? Red would look like a major eye sore IMO. While I too like the industrial look, having 1 piece looking industrial isn't going to change the entire rooms feel, instead is will look out of place.
LOL!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13805795#post13805795 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tigerarmy40
my bad...
No prob, I'm was just beginning to feel like a broken record and read your post at a bad time.
LOL!
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13806283#post13806283 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by just dave
My.
The clear PVC I've used is not clear. It actually has blue tint to it and does not have the polished look of acrylic and as it is extruded it has the lines commonly associated with that process. I think it kinda looks cheap. The glued joints will be visible and discolor differently. I don't know how it will react being exposed to your lighting as I've never used where that was an issue but it is more brittle compared to regular PVC and I imagine the exposure to your lights would make it worse over time. It does scratch easily and while you may keep it clean an inevitable hazing will occur especially on the inside as the water pumps particulate matter through it. Given your criteria I would do one of two things.
Bend some regular PVC to get the form you're after and paint it a white to match your trim or a contrasting color like black. You can pack the pipe with sand to keep it from collapsing during the bending process but I've never been able to achieve a visibly uniform curve. Always looked too organic to me.
The other is to use 1" pipe and 3/4" fittings and join them by butting them together instead of the socket joints. I've done this with PVC cement and it has worked fine and joints were plenty strong. You could sand all the seams and raised lettering from the fittings and after the parts were set and cured form the attachment process you could give it a final sanding to smooth the joint lines and paint the pipe the color of your choice and it would look like a continuous molded piece. You might could use Weld-On 40 but I've never used it for PVC to PVC. I've used it for PVC to acrylic but I didn't get the impression that it was actually softening the material like PVC cement does and I don't know if the minimal contact it would have would be strong enough. Though you could bevel the outside of the joints so that when they were butted together they formed a shallow V and after they were attached together use 40 to fill in the V and once cured sand it flush and this would give you a greater contact area.
If you went the black route , which I think would look good because I noticed some black furniture in the room and it definitely would not look like you were trying to hide it but the opposite, I would use black PVC and still paint it black to cover the sanding and glue marks. This would give you some added visible protection should something scrape the paint as it would still be black underneath.
Not a bad idea, but since the pipe is purchased, if I don't like the look, perhaps this will be my back up plan... Thanks for the thoughts.
My experience as well, but it also leaked!
Also not a bad color, but I'll have to consider it as a back up plan. Pic of the clear pipe will be end of the week as it shipped today.
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=13806863#post13806863 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Hopeful Reefer
Talk about DIY!!
Ditto.
Ditto.
This thread was automatically split due to performance issues. You can find the rest of the thread here: http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?threadid=1517131
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