Connection between Return pump and Sump

liquidlunch

New member
I am upgrading my 30 gal sump to a 55 that I just drilled the other day. Because the tank is wider and my fishroom stand is only so wide, I will have to reconfigure the placement of my return pump. I plan to run a 90 elbo right off the sump bulkhead, then a union ballvalve(that is now being added and was not used w/ the 30gal sump) and then a 90 elbo off that. I understand head loss pressure due to pipe diameters, valves, elbos,etc AFTER the pump, but are there any issues with having a couple elbos BEFORE the pump?
 
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I wouldn't think there would be any issues other than what you stated > head loss pressure. If you compensate for that then you should be just fine
 
It's not ideal, but should work fine.
When possible (enough room) I use the "long 90" elbows. They're designed for drainage, not pressure, but I've got a few on my Hammerhead that are doing fine. Instead of the hard corner of a 90 elbow, it's a curved 90, it impedes flow far less than the standard elbow.
Like I said, it's designed for drainage, so the pocket area for mounting it on PVC is about half of a pressure fitting. Be sure you make a clean straight cut on your PVC and use plenty of glue, and you should be fine.
 
What is the inlet size of the pump? Since you will be slowing the available water volume to the pump, if you can run larger pipe to the inlet, it would help.
For instance, the inlet of my Hammerhead is 1.5". I knew that i would have a downturned elbow in the sump to minimize the chance of cavitation. Because of that, everything from the in-sump elbow to the reducer on the inlet is 2", then the reducer brings it down to 1.5".

Something else, which is common sense but occasionally gets overlooked, make sure the valve side of your union is towards the sump. Wouldn't want you to have to replumb like some people I know.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=12351967#post12351967 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by TheMcs
What is the inlet size of the pump? Since you will be slowing the available water volume to the pump, if you can run larger pipe to the inlet, it would help.
For instance, the inlet of my Hammerhead is 1.5". I knew that i would have a downturned elbow in the sump to minimize the chance of cavitation. Because of that, everything from the in-sump elbow to the reducer on the inlet is 2", then the reducer brings it down to 1.5".

Something else, which is common sense but occasionally gets overlooked, make sure the valve side of your union is towards the sump. Wouldn't want you to have to replumb like some people I know.

Here's a pic as it is right now(minus the phosban reactor). The pump is a Gen-X PCX-40 with a 3/4" inlet/outlet. I have 1" flex PVC between the sump/pump w/ a 1" to 3/4" reducer.
I could perhaps move the new sump more to the left so I have room to run a straight shot instead of (2) elbos.

73125IMGA0032.JPG
 
Worse case scenario you could even screw a short piece of ply on top of the table to extend a shelf off the edge, just long enough to accomodate the pump.
 
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