Converting my fresh to reef

<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10505569#post10505569 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by killagoby
Why would you have to drill? Couldn't you use an overflow box instead?

Drilling is like 1000000x better than overflow box. Believe me!
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10506875#post10506875 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by tigga
Drilling is like 1000000x better than overflow box. Believe me!

I just be worried about the stresses on the tank with all of the weight of the rocks in it.
 
yeah but I doubt i even need to worry about that. Alot of ppl have drilled their AGA 29g and lived to tell the tale:P
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10562289#post10562289 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by LNell
Why the change of heart on the refugium issue? Oh wait, I am not allowed to ask questions! :rolleyes:

lol actual I might as well do it if I were to do a sump. Maybe convert the AQ 70 to a refugium and hang in on the back of my 10g sump

Also wondering if 10g sump is good for size because that it is the only size that fits in my cabinet. How should I baffle it and separate into compartments?
 
Good Lck with the transition I did the same thing I had a 46 gallon hex tank that I converted into saltwater reef tank. But found it to be quite expensive so I ditched the 46 tank and went with the nano set up and I could'nt have been more happier a little cheaper because it has everything built in. Good luck.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10500266#post10500266 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by NanoReefWanabe
as for enjoyment..i dont know how anyone could enjoy a yellow fresh tank when there is sooooo very much to see in the deep blue ocean..

You can put bluer lights on FW tanks without plants... ie. my Malawi cichlid tank has bluer hued lighting, as I hated the look of the yellow.

But... I think the favorite tanks are tied between my FW planted and my reef tank...
So, you can have a really nice reef tank and a really nice planted FW tank, if you're willing to put in the work.

There was a thread on this site somewhere, that I can't find bc search is down, that was debating the two on what is easier.

To make things more fun, I'm thinking of doing a planted SW tank soon for a Clownfish that tears up corals.
Different macros and some mangroves out the top.
 
You hate refugiums??? Its possibly the best thing you could add to your system!
What you could do is buy a Aquaclear 110 and convert that into a fuge.

Here is a link of how to convert it...Its super easy.
http://reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=601201&highlight=how+to+DIY+an

Then also use your AC 70 with just the filter sponge and a bag of Seachem Purigen.

Or you could get an external overflow box and run it into a a sump in your stand.
If you do that..I would for sure make it into a refugium.

Also to the guy that said there is no filter media except carbon, what do you call Seachem Purigen.
 
I dont think a 10 gal sump is big enough for a 29 gal.

I wouldnt hang the AC 70 on the sump either. You would be better off building the
fuge in your sump. You can buy acrylic at lowes. They also have silicone there too.
 
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so what should i do? create a sump or add an AQ 110 along side my AQ 70?

Will two HOB filters substitute a sump?
 
I like having a sump in that you can hide all your equipment (i.e. heater). However, having no sump and converting an AQ 110 into a fuge would be much simpler. BTW, I don't think a 10g is too small for a 29, it should be just fine.
 
thanks all for your replies...helps a lot

anyone else with opinions w/ having a no sump 29g?

And also will a Ro/DI unit 99.9% prevent algae if I control feeding and light?

If i were to go for a sump/refug what should I do with 5 month AQ 70 i bought for 60$???
 
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Well it really depends on how involved you want this to be and if you feel the benefits of a sump are worth it. There are many sumpless thanks that work great and look beautiful on these forums you can go either way.

There is a 10 gal DIY refugium post that was pretty good. Basically they set it up all for about $40 USD all from pvc and hardware supplies. So you can do it pretty cost effective if you want. If you did this I would just use your AQ 70 for extra water volume and water movement. You could also use it to run carbon it you needed to. It also gives you a place to hide your heater.

You could also just convert the AQ 70 into a fuge like others suggested. This would be a little cheaper and get you going faster I think. Also this may be the way to go if you did not want to mess with plumbing a sump/fuge, or extra expense.

The sump/fuge does give you the benefit of added water volume. A place to do your water changes. Some where to put all your equipment so it is not in the display. The added filtration of extra live rock in the fuge. So in short it all depends on what you feel works for you.
 
And what about the Ro/di unit? Can I start of with seachem primed tap water and then after I have some money and buy a unit? Or must I get the unit before starting?
 
I started by using RO/DI water from the supermarket. LFS has some as well for about 0.50$ a gal. It got anoying to carry a 18L bottle during winter so I bought a unit and I'm glad I did :). At 1% evaporation a day + waterchange it doesn't take long to become cheaper than the LFS water.

In wich section of the RONA did you find the Bomix sand? I've been looking for months in search of a replacement for Caribsea sand. The only thing I found was brown playsand or very white quartz sand.
 
my ten gallon sump/refugium is setup like this...for my 20H tank...and i have no problems...

heat is actually a problem now..lack there of that is...before my tank was hitting 84 with the mag9 and the 150MH...now with the AC70 i barely hit 80, and it has been dropping to 76 at night though even with heater set at 77..

but anyway..here is how i did my sump
10gsumpfront.jpg

water comes in on the right, airlift 60 skimmer sits right beside the inlet...i think the area is 4.5" wide..then it goes over under over baffles 1" appart (that wasnt fun putting together) then it falls into the return section that also serves as my fuge...where i have an eggcrrate basket lined with nylon screening and filled with cheato and a piece of LR for wieght...under the basket is about 5 pounds of LR rubble...beside the rubble is the Aquaclear 70 return pump, from which i get about 250gph back to the tank afer head loss...water level sits about 1/2" above the basket ~ 8" from the bottom of the tank...leaves room for about 3 gallons of over flow from display during power out...
 
forgot to mention my heater is sitting directly in front of my pumps inlet, and i protected the inlet using the stupid rubber thing that comes with it and modified it to hold a threaded 1" bulkhead strainer..
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=10606415#post10606415 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by slevesque
I started by using RO/DI water from the supermarket. LFS has some as well for about 0.50$ a gal. It got anoying to carry a 18L bottle during winter so I bought a unit and I'm glad I did :). At 1% evaporation a day + waterchange it doesn't take long to become cheaper than the LFS water.

In wich section of the RONA did you find the Bomix sand? I've been looking for months in search of a replacement for Caribsea sand. The only thing I found was brown playsand or very white quartz sand.

bomix sand is hard to find...I called almost all the Rona's in toronto and finally got one that had it. They usually keep those out back so you have to ask someone for white bomix play sand
 
Okay i guess i'll a compartment for the drain, return pump and refug w/ baffles b/w the fug and drain. I'll use the AQ 70 as hangon on the 29g for flow and mayb carbon once in a while. Thanks all and any more suggestions would be helpful
 
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