Copper plumbing help needed

law086

law086

Premium Member
Hey folks,

I recently moved and had a utility sink installed in my fish room area by the builder. The problem is that I need to tap into the cold copper water line to hook up my RO unit.

Anyhow, I have all the tools to do the copper plumbing and I've been practicing, I however can't seem to soder fittings very well. I'm applying the flux, heating the pipe to the point that the soder melts without a flame then applying the soder. My issue is that the soder doesn't seem to be sucked into the pipe like I'd expect. I'm starting to think about calling a professional, but I'd hate to because it shouldn't be this hard. I'm a wiz with PVC!

Any advice?

Thanks,
Ron
 
Law, go to hardware store and but a push and turn fitting. nylon t with threaded take off for water line no soldering no mess,ps if there is water in the line it will wick the heat away also you dont mention using flux, in soldering cleanliness is a must
 
It's a line coming from whereever and going to the utility sink. So, I'd need to cut in the middle of it and install a T fitting. I don't believe a threaded fitting would work in my case because I'd eventually have to connect the two ends of the cut pipe.

Good point about the water. I didn't consider how that would affect the soldering process. Also - I am using flux... but I'm not cleaning the fittings too much... and I wonder if that's my problem.

Any thoughts?

Ron
 
the secrete to soldering is to have a clean metal. get a wire brush (at the plumbing supply, they have round ones for copper pipe) or sand paper and rub the surfaces to be soldered till they shine. Then coat liberaly in flux, put the joint together, then heat. If you got it clean enough the soldier will be sucked into the joint.
here is a nice guide with lots of pictures:
http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=18276
 
Thanks for the advice and the link! So you would agree that my lack of cleaning could certainly be my problem? I'll stop at a hardware store tomorrow, get a brush and practice more.

Ron
 
Clean copper is an absolute must when sweating. Both the pipe and fitting should be nice and bright before fluxing and assembling. You also need to be sure to introduce the solder on the opposite side that you heated the fitting on. By doing so the solder will be drawn through the entire fitting.
 
Yes CLEAN CLEAN. DON'T touch the area after you have cleaned it.

HOME DEPOT now caries fitting with solder already in them. You can use those if your still having trouble. Remember to clean not only the PIPE but the inside of the fitting as well.

TIPS:
DO NOT USE that crap water based FLUX. It flat out sucks. Go to a plumbing supply if you have to and get the real deal.

Turn the water off, open the upstairs valves and the lowest valve in the house (it may be the pipe you cut) so that the all the water drains out of the system.

The pipe has to be 100% dry or you will have all kinds of problems.

BIG TIP COMING PAY ATTENTION!!!

If you keep getting a drip of water out of the pipe, shake it out as best you can, stuff a piece of bread into the end of the problem pipe, wire brush again if needed real quick, flux it up and solder away.

The bread will disolve and blow through the pipe when you turn the water on. (don't worry it will not clog the pipe.. I have used this technique on everything from household plumbing to 4" pipe over the years).

Enjoy.
 
when i got my ro unit it came with a tool that peired the copper piping the onlt tool i needed was a screw driver. The same tool is used to turn the ro on or off. I have no idea were to get this tool from. but here is the link to were i got it from
http://www.aquasafecanada.com/
 
I believe you are talking about a saddle valve and a lot of places in the US are staring to ban them (I read that in a post here at RC somewhere)
 
I just helped a friend plumb his in and all we used is a fitting meant for a refridgerator poke a hole in the copper and screw it on. also I have been doing copper plumbing for a long time now and when someone is new I always recommend using the pre soldered fittings they sell at home depot. these already have solder in them so as long as you clean the heck out of it and get as much water out of the line its just a matter of cut, clean, flux, connest, and go
 
Wow, thanks for all the great tips.

Just to clarify the procedure to the pre-soldered fittings - I clean them, apply the flux then heat the fittings? But for how long and how to I know they're soldered well?

Thanks,
Ron
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=7912225#post7912225 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by mhj1580
I believe you are talking about a saddle valve and a lot of places in the US are staring to ban them (I read that in a post here at RC somewhere)
Click to expand...

I wonder why??
 
Beacaue they case a lot of problems.

law:

You will flux the joint (flux should extend slightly beyond the edge of the fitting) and put it together... apply heat to the middle of the fitting for 10 seconds or so. You can test the heat with the solder by touching it to the opposite side of the fitting (from the flame) at the joint between the fitting and pipe. When it begins to melt (NOT IN THE TORCH FLAME) the joint is hot enough. Ease the solder back and forth over the back of the joint as you remove the flame. It should draw into the joint and you will see a bit of it the whole way around. You should be quick enough to do both sides of the fitting in the cae of a Tee or elbow. Try not to reheat a joint like a TEE if you can help it (take s some practice).

LET THE JOINT COOL ON ITS OWN. Don't use water or a wet towel.

To solder joints that are very close together, wrap the already soldered joint in a wet towel so you do not remelt it.
 
Bean - the only thing I'm still not getting is the difference in the process between pre-soldered fittings and regular fittings.

Thanks,
Ron
 
The pre soldered fittings have an inside groove pressed into the copper and it is filled with dried solder. In theory you can clean the pipe and fitting... toss it on with some flux and heat it up without adding additional solder. I have used them, they work, but I still add a touch of solder anyway.

Bean
 
If I understand this slop sink set up, why dont you get a shut off valve with 2 out puts in it. One goes to the sink the other to the RO. All you would need is a wrench?
 
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